Posted on 01/31/2012 9:47:56 PM PST by djf
I have a mid-80's Blazer with disc brakes on the front, one is hopelessly seized and took me about an hour and fifteen minutes to get off... so new calipers on both sides is in the planning stage, but I am wondering. I will be able to almost fill the calipers w/brake fluid before I attach the main brake lines, or I can mount them empty, open the bleeder valve, and fill them from the top.
Which is best? Why?
Well, I, for one, see plenty of learning opportunities there.
And potential for a good video with screaming and yelling and crashes.
Lets us just see where this leads.
/johnny
Oh, hush. who needs brakes? Move to a no-fault-zone like DC or MI, and slam into a porsche.
/johnny
The rear end has drums and I rebuilt those in the late 90’s, worked like a champ since then.
And disc are a lot easier to work on than drums...
Oh, that's changing the rules. Safe for whom? perzactly?
Do you not have brothers-in-laws for testing? Or did you run through all of them earlier?
/johnny
Yep, great when your 17. Its all Go no slow. Then again maybe that’s why insurance was costing more than the car.
You can likely get a nice bleeder kit loaner at Autozone or O’Riellies.
So you are in NM? “ ORiellies.”
Last time, I rigged my own. Took a pop bottle, drilled a hole in the top and epoxied a hose in. Added some string so I could hang it upside down and put about half a cup of fresh brake fluid in it.
Pumped the brakes till there were no more bubbles, then closed the bleeder valve.
Pretty simple, actually. But this time I’m gonna want to totally flush the system out with new fluid and get all of the old crap out.
Before kickoff this Sunday, that’s the only day a friend can help!
And like I said, I appreciate all the tips, that’s why I ask the question. Do me favor, though. Don’t put too much faith in “professional” auto repair places. I’ve got a couple stories and I’m sure many others do too!
Bleeder valves are designed specifically to attach a hose to them.
As far as bleeding goes, always start with the shortest line first, 2nd longest next and so on. Remember to chock the wheels as with power brake boosters you need the vehicle running for a bleed.
Here's another tip for all. Do not get brake parts cleaner on any rubber parts. Obvious. Do not use Armour All on the rubber either as it attracts dust. Use silicone spray.
Everybody recognizes my superiority at doing brakes. Even people who never met me. They must due to the way they always pull out in front of me with no room.
As an A+P with over 30 yrs experience, I’ll say you nailed it!
for those of us without friends, speed bleeders (Speed Bleeder or Russell brand) make bleeding your brakes without an assistant a breeze.
Funny you should mention beer.
Years ago, I guy I knew was drinking a beer while he was bleeding his brakes, and the bottle he was using to catch the brake fluid was the same brand as what he was drinking.
You can guess what happened. He was in the hospital for 3 days.
The old S10 Blazer, expanded the range and depth of my cuss arsenal. Replacing a heater core and a dimmer switch were two memorable activities.
Not sure what part of the country you’re in, but here in the land of salted roads brake lines tend to rust through. I would check them all over and replace any that look questionable while you’re at it.
And all this time I thought the tit was to hang a line wrench on. /s
You would be mixing old brake fluid with new. Bad idea. The whole system needs to be changed. This would be a good time to replace the master and rear cylinders, also. The rubber seals go bad, and there is probably corrosion in the cylinders.
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