[dead]

I know nothing about plumbing.

Would you mind terribly if I turned this into an anti-immigration thread?

[rawcatslyentist]

>"what is the difference between a "sweat" connection and a compression connection and an iron connection? Also, the part of the valve into which the pipe stub goes appears to be unthreaded. How, then, does the valve stay on the pipe? Thanks."

A sweat is a solder connection, with a blowtorch.
A compression literally compresses a brass doughnut ring around the pipe end, the force of this compression holds the conection together and prevents leakage.
An iron stub, or MIP shouldn't apply as you have copper pipes, not iron.

The sweat is actually the easiest to do. Just heat then lay the solder to the joint, capilary action does the rest.

[mpoulin]

In this case, I suspect hiring a plumber will be cheaper in the long run.

[uglybiker]

If it were me, I would:

1.)Shut off the main water line to the house (or to the bathroom, if possible).

2.)Drain the toilet and remove the valve.

3.)Take the valve with me down to Home Depot. Although my preference is a local hardware store as the employees tend to be more knowledgeable.

Unless your commode is a hundred years old, an origional replacement valve should still be available.

[FreeReign]

...multiturn rather than 1/4 turn valve.

Go with the 1/4 turn, you won't regret it.

[garyhope]

I could be wrong, but I think many toilet valves (or the water supply line to the toilet) are multi turn valves and most likely is screwed onto a threaded stub out.

If you want to replace that old, hard to turn, corroded valve, etc., get a new quarter turn valve which is probably also called a ball valve..

Be careful removing the old valve from the stub out. Use 2 wrenches so you don't break off the old threaded stub out if it's sweated to the old supply line.

Freepers know everything don't we? !

Now if only I could get some advice on my broken down personal relationships,.....

[Diver Dave]

You've got freepmail.

[Jeff Chandler]

Get a quarter turn ball valve. It will be more dependable.

If the current valve is threaded, replace it with a threaded valve. If it is sweated, replace it with either a sweated or compression valve. The compression valve is actually simpler to use, but the stub must be clean and round for it to work.

If you use a compression valve, and after proper tightening there is a tiny, tiny drip, put a bowl under it an keep an eye on it. It should calcify and seal up.

If you sweat a valve on, make sure the stub is clean, sanded, and well fluxed. Use a propane torch and apply heat to the fitting, not the stub, until solder flows into the joint, then stop heating. Be careful with the torch, you may not realize you are inadvertantly heating some surrounding material. Keep a fire extinguisher handy.

[Brainhose]

"Where is that shut off valve!?"

Just a suggestion.

I use the Crap-Master 3000 model shut off
valve it is very reliable but is typically a 3
person operation to replace it.

[Emmett McCarthy]

Home Depot is a bad place to start. Find a small local hardware store - like an Ace Hardware - which has knowledgeable employees. Those working at Home Depot know less than nothing.

[NittanyLion]

My advice is to just put some towels and buckets in a nearby closet, and go play golf instead of replacing the shutoff valve.

[TruthWillWin]

Leave it alone. Not a good idea to shut off the toilet.

For a forum that will give you better answers try this one:

http://www.construction-resource.com/forum/

[ErnBatavia]

Maybe our newest FReeper - a master plumber - can assist! He’s never posted here before, so let’s just see what happens....