You can use a very thng strip of metal to 'fill out' the inner core of the cylinder if the inside is worn down and the fit is loose ont he post. Or you can wrap a layer of tinfoil on the post and push the cylinder down onto the post after the Weld has dried good ... allow 24 hours before using the glued piece.
If the cylinder has broken into two or more pieces, glue the pieces back with a touch of super glue on the separation surfaces, wrap the cylinder with a twist-tie, onece around, until it is solidly glued, then do the JB Weld wrap of the outside of the cylinder but you don't need to use the twist-tie for holding while setting.
You can use a very thin strip of metal to 'fill out' the inner core of the cylinder if the inside is worn down and the fit is loose ont he post. Or you can wrap a layer of tinfoil on the post and push the cylinder down onto the post after the Weld has dried good ... allow 24 hours before using the glued piece.
If the cylinder has broken into two or more pieces, glue the pieces back with a touch of super glue on the separation surfaces, wrap the cylinder with a twist-tie, once around, until it is solidly glued, then do the JB Weld wrap of the outside of the cylinder but you don't need to use the twist-tie for holding while setting.
There is another technique I’ve used to form parts for guns. It involves somehting similar to bedding and psot work on a rifle stock, where the metal is coated with a releasing agent then the metal is pressed into a wet bed of epoxy untilt he epoxy dries, then remove the metal part and clean the releasing agent off. Makes a nice tight fit, but the wrapped outside of the plastic cylonder into which the metal post fits works well enough on these twist-dial handles.
Try it to see!
I just mixed up the JB stuff I purchased earlier today.
The setup time is a BIT faster in 102° heat!
When I'm done educating mis-informed MORMONs in a few; I'll head back out to the barn and see how my handiwork has progressed.