Posted on 12/22/2004 5:31:29 AM PST by ExSoldier
L
bump to read later
Good article, will print later.
Cheers all
The info about the lubicants is very useful. May I say it goes for sewing machines too. USE the proper oils. I made the mistake of using 3 in 1 oil on my sewing machine...30 years ago and it gummed it up and had to be professionally cleaned. The guy who cleaned it showed me the difference in the oils.
Thanks!
Ref. for later.
Good read but I'll add what worked for me in Artic, Jungle and Desert conditions.
Artic: Completely strip the weapon of "all" lubricants and POL products. Wipe down with alcohol. Use lighter fluid to coat the entire action, bore and trigger group etc and let it evaporate and reassemble. In extreme cold consider the dangers of warm shelter tempetures and walking out to sub zero conditions. Condensation will flash freeze the action so be careful.
Jungle: Used a impregnated oily rag (no not eakers first girl friend) called rustepruffe., detail clean and use any good product that will "repel" water and not mix with it. We also used an exotic and very expensive jungle grade lubricant called Water Displacement formula # 40 that kept dihydrogen monoxide at bay in wet environment. After using the lubricant we wiped it down very clean with a dry rag and at the end of each day there on out used the rustepruffe rag to "maintain" (not clean) the firearms.
Desert; Clean the weapon of all POL products.......period. Our M60's, 1911's and M1A's were degreased completely and functioned flawlessly in the Shamals.
That's how I did it with my weapons. Worked for me. In competition and play these days I swab em down with Militec products and the rustepruffe product rag. For hunting I try to fit the firearm for the conditions. Wet/Cold = stainless or titanium / stainless combination of those metals for rifle actions. Albeit one can "watch" a Blued steel Ruger rust. The blued steel Sako products survived the Alaskan weather really well. I guess it's all about the composition but the best rifle I own for hunting all conditions is a Remington 700 stainless Sendero SF in 300 Rem Ultra Mag that I had coated with titanium nitride for protection and then had all the trigger group and bolt coated with a ceramic product that was/is (?) used on race engines. The lighter fluid evaporated and wiped down trick completes my hunting rifle prep.
My carry daily 1911A1 is degreased/cleaned in a sonic wet bath . I then treated all the internals per the militec products instructions and wipe it as dry as possible with a clean dry rag. I then add just a minor coating of the militec grease to moving parts and bearing surfaces. Keeps the dust bunnies , sweat and levi lint at bay right proper......
Just the way I maintain my firearms .......hunting, competition or self defense.
Stay safe !
Oooops number 89 was to you also......doom on me !
It sprays or wipes on, then dries to a lubricating film that doesn't attract dust.
I wouldn't spray it on my ammo as there's a chance it MIGHT screw up the primers.
It dries fairly quickly on the gun, so won't seep into the ammo if you wait a few minutes to load.
You can feel the action in a revolver is smoother after using it.
Ummmm eeeeek I know yer accident prone but ya can keep the hydrogen peroxide in the first aid locker.........:o)
That just gave me an idea for your Xmas gift lil buddy !!
http://www.z-medica.com/products.html
Cleanliness is next to Godliness, a great reminder! Merry Christmas!
Curtis Sliwa uses Motor Silk. And not just on his toast.
Got a link?
A Glock doesn't need that much oil...basically four drops of oil at separate parts.
Ed
OMG! ~snorting coffee through my nose~ I hope you're close friends with Eaker, or you live on the other side of the planet from him.
Wipe down with alcohol. Use lighter fluid to coat the entire action, bore and trigger group etc and let it evaporate and reassemble.
What does this do? And why would you use such a flammable concoction? Isn't there something similar that's not so dangerous to use? Not just the flame risk, but to skin and inhale?
Yep me an Eaker are actually twin brothers....he has the only picture of us togeather......:o)
The flamable part of the lighter fluid evaporates and yer left with a really fine residue that is a POL non flammable base that is perfect form minimal artic needs for lube that won't let the action freeze or jam up.
Old eskimo myth.........right below the one about don't eat the yellow snow. (why Eeeeek lives in houston no doubt :o)
http://www.amsoil.com/products/amp.html
Stay safe !
I learned it will just disintergrate anything in the way of plastic mags.
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