A Taliban in Istanbul

Milliyet ^ | 11/18/2001 | Ahmet Dumanli

[a_Turk]

Translated by a_Turk from the turkish language daily newspaper Milliyet.

Journalist Ahmet Dumanli, who had been covering the war in Peshaver for the past 42 days, returned to Istanbul still donning the Taliban's traditional Pashtun garb. First he stopped in the Eyup neighborhood, where he was greeted with fervor by passers by....

I had been living with the Taliban on the border of Afghanistan for the past 42 days. And now I am back in Istanbul, still dressed as a Taliban no less...

The Taliban, who after the fall of Kabul seemed to disappear from Afghanistan has surfaced in Istanbul. It slipped by the police at the Ataturk airport, and toured the neighborhoods of Taksim, Etiler, and Eyup. All joking aside, I had missed Istanbul and my people. It was not easy, I had been staying with the Taliban for the past 42 days. So now I'm back home in Istanbul. Still dressed like a Taliban, I am walking the streets. Let's see what the Turkish people think about the Taliban, and how they behave.

Great Interest in Eyup
Our first stop is the Eyup mosque and its environs. My friend Ercan Arslan a photo journalist is following me from a distance. The fellas hanging out around the mosque were no different than what I had been getting used to for the past few weeks. They were greeting me with smiles and then whispering to each other: "What's this taliban doing here while there's a war on in Afghanistan?"

The grocer who noticed Arslan following me shooting pictures quietly warned me: "Careful bro, they're taking your picture. Before you know it they'll put it in the paper and claim to have found Usame at the Eyup mosque." We're co-religionists after all...

It's dificult to be a stranger in Istanbul. Especially finding those confused addresses... Using that excuse I aproached a police man who was wearing a flak-jacket and carrying a submachine gun. Bless him, he decided to be helpful. At that time another cop, who had just gotten off-duty, approached. "If you know the whole address," he said, "I'll take you there" without minding my garb. Af ter the tour in Eyup, while waiting for a car to take me back to the newspaper, the girls and boys who were pupils at the religious lyceum were surprised: "Look at the Taliban! He's even got an earring. What's he doing here when there's a jihad on over there?"

And the Second Tour...

We're in one of the more sought after neighborhoods of Istanbul, namely Etiler. This time I'm working with my photo journalist buddy Yurttash Tümer. I am not getting the attention that I was enjoying in Eyup here. The inhabitants of Etiler are satisfied with staring me down from a distance. The only one who spoke to me was a pan-handler (he wants money, but the Taliban's got none.) Then a global-oriented taxi driver asked "Bro, what's the situation?" The Turkish answer did not satisfy. He drove of talking to himself.

We could not enter the Akmerkez Mall
So we got to Akmerkez. One of the best malls and gathering spots in Istanbul was packed as usual. But the people were again satisfied by just looking at me from a distance. Of course my friend Yurttash Tümer was taking pictures in close succession. This, however, did not last long, because Mall Security discovered us and would not leave us alone. We told him we were Turkish newspapermen, but they would not listen. When we couldn't convince the Akmerkez PR person either, we could not get a visa to enter the Mall. Next we decided to move on to Taxim Square. The Cultural Center was busy as usual. In short, all of Taxim is watching me. Everyone was still spying the Taliban while we were waiting for the tram. On our way down Istiklal street toward Tunel, a group of young men and women joked: "Wow, that looks like it could be Usame!"

Usame Bin Ladin has escaped!
When we reached the Galatasaray Lyceum, we were met with the interest of some of our fellow reporters and some police, who were waiting ready for the customary Saturday demonstrations. They were joking amongst each other: "Friends, let's be careful! Usame Bin Ladin has escaped from Afghanistan!"

Looking at Istanbul from the Galata bridge, I thought I'd have a few words with the fishermen. But they didn't really care. Who cares about a Taliban, they've gotto make a living....

At Eminonu by the Egyptian Spice Bazaar, even those escaping from the rain could not help but turn to stare at me. Speaking on the phone at a corner by the "New Mosque" (it was new a long long time ago) I kept hearing the usual: "Usame is here!", "Look at the Afghan, he's using the phone!", "What kind of Taliban is that!"

I really missed my country and my people...

[a_Turk]

ping

[WRhine]

Very interesting story Turk. Seems that life is tranquil in Turkey.

[a_Turk]

Seems that life is tranquil in Turkey.

Other than the occasional terror attack, we're fine :)

[PoorMuttly]

Thanks for the ping.

[No Truce With Kings]

What I find a little disconcerting is the acceptance of the "Taliban." They found him amusing, not alarming. I'm glad he is not being chaired through the Galatasaray Lyceum, but I find the snickers make me a little uneasy.

OTOH, the fishermen's reaction did not surprise me. He would have got the same lack of reaction at the docks in Gloucester, MA, Kemah, TX, or even Greece. Fishermen's indifference to Anything Not Fish is legendary, and virtually a universal constant.

[a_Turk]

What I find a little disconcerting is the acceptance of the "Taliban." They found him amusing, not alarming.

One Taliban is amusing, maybe even "kinda cute." 10,000 Taliban are alarming. Anyway, we Turks don't lose our composure too easily. We like to stay cool, calm, and collected. That's what happens when you live your life with random acts of terror an integral part thereof..

Anyway, just because someone is dressed like a Taliban does not mean they are one. The guy was being teased pretty good...

[Captain Shady]

I like the Turkish attitude .It seems that the Turkish people were trying to tell this chap'" We can tolerate, but won't participate."

[a_Turk]

We can tolerate, but won't participate

That's right. You know this man is a modern man who was actually a journalist in disguise and infiltrated the Taliban in Afghanistan right?

[Captain Shady]

You know this man is a modern man who was actually a journalist in disguise and infiltrated the Taliban in Afghanistan right?

Right ,but there are places even in the U.S. that he'd fit right in with full Taliban regalia .For example, Applalachia.

[RummyChick]

I can't believe no one stopped him. I am an American who must look like a Rumanian because I got stopped on quite a few occasions asking for my identification all throughout Istanbul. I think they thought I was a hooker.

One time, I was in a taxi that was DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD and they pulled the taxi over and asked for my identification. I was with a Turk and I couldn't believe it.

How can this person, who they think is Taliban, just go through the streets unaccosted when an American gets harassed repeatedly.
Ahhhhh, fun times in Istanbul

[Captain Shady]

I am an American who must look like a Rumanian because I got stopped on quite a few occasions asking for my identification all throughout Istanbul.

I guess its always a problem getting stopped by cops worldwide,if you're female. Thats especially true if you're attractive.

[a_Turk]

Hi. Hope you were able to enjoy some of our hospitality, despite the string of (coincidental?) id checks you underwent. They can be unpleasant to most, but I rather enjoy them. It gives me a chance to shoot the breeze with my brothers who are in effect putting their lives on the line to safeguard my right to live...

One time, I was in a taxi that was DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD and they pulled the taxi over and asked for my identification. I was with a Turk and I couldn't believe it.

That's normal. Cops in the US ought to do that. You'd be surprised how many illegals you'd collect off the streets, let alone wanted criminals.

How can this person, who they think is Taliban, just go through the streets unaccosted when an American gets harassed repeatedly.

Did you not read, private security wouldn't let him enter the mall. The real cops and the public saw him as an idiot. Terrorists don't dress Pashtun, they dress normal so they won't get detected. But they should never have harassed an American, now that was WAY outa line :)

[TomSmedley]

thanks for the ping

[RummyChick]

I had a great time traveling in Turkey. Everyone thought I was nuts, as a female, to go alone..but I came home unscathed except for constant bombardment from the cops and the rug sellers :-)

[Ol' Sox]

Off topic but - who pays for the upkeep of Mecca and Medina?

Well, for a month each year, everyone pitches in and sweeps and dusts.

[a_Turk]

ping

[a_Turk]

ping

[Patria One]

Love it. bump.

[a_Turk]

ping