Posted on 11/02/2001 7:08:49 PM PST by Don Myers
This is a pure vanity. We have been doing a lot of talking about terrorism and the "war." I have two Ruger Mini 14s. Well, one is a Ranch Rifle and one is a Mini 14. They are virtually the safe rifle with minor differences. I have not even been able to fire them yet. A local police agency turned them in to a local gun store. I think that I should have bought more of them. The Ranch rifle has a scope.
Anyway, I am sure there are many of you who have these guns. I am curious as to what you think about the suitability of the gun and the ammo in a self-defense role in which rifles may be used. There may be a time when a rifle may be necessary to repel multiple hostiles.
Don't bet your life on these rifles until you have thoroughly checked out the whole weapon system consisting of your rifles, your mags, your ammo and your sights. It's no good finding out in an emergency situation that your scope rings are loose or that your cases are sticking in the chamber. You may also consider a sling for prone but you need to spend some range time learning to sling up quickly and comfortably.
Also, see how the rifles eject. I have been pelted so hard on the noggin by guys with new Minis firing Russian steel case ammo that I refuse to set up within six firing points on the right side of a Mini. A little gunsmith work on the ejector spring would fix this.
Have fun with them!
You are a wise and knowledgable person
The M82a1 is about 4900.EB around here
One word -- Messy.
I have one in .223. What is your experience with them?
Thanks. I have had them apart for cleaning. I have noticed on one of them that if I don't have the fore-end screws set right, the bolt will lock up on me. Do you have any knowledge of this?
A word of caution on the Wolf ammo. It's lacquer finish melts in a hot chamber, and, when cooled, sticks badly. I tried wolf once and had a stuck round that almost ruined the chamber. The bolt stuck and took a rod down the barrel to dislodge it. The lacquer had become damned near a glue.
I shoot with a guy who won the top civilian service rifle at Perry a few years ago(missed overall by one point) and he can't hold that with his 40-x in 7mm-08 at 600. (I have seen him go clean with 200-12X and consistently shoot 195s+ with a service rifle in bad conditions at 6.) It is considerably easier to dope the wind with a 7mm-08 or .308 than any load in a .223 (including the 80's which I doubt the Remington will even stabilize. I don't know the twist off the top of my head.) I know you might hold that for maybe a 3 shot group once in a while, but consistently 4"s????? That is some real shooting.
I said this ammo was better than using your fist or throwing rocks at an enemy....but funny you should mention the lacquer problem...never thought of that...we shoot full auto and of course we "gum up" our guns...but we have break free and boiling water handy on those big mg shoots for corrosive and "crap" ammo.
A wise man. I call my scuba gear, dirt bike, and my gun the same thing: Life support equipment. Underwater, in the air, or in a gun fight, equipment is life supporting equipment, not just gear.
Of course, once they settle in they are dead nuts reliable!
You are discussing a semi-auto rifle for defensive purposes. You can't let that be the end of the conversation. When you are considering a firearm's properties, and how it will apply to your specific needs, think of you needs in "rings".
The first ring is 'immediate'. That means anything you have might work: .22, .32, .380, 9mm, etc. (a .25, as Jeff Cooper states, may only antagonize your opponent and make him emotional...). This ring is to about the standard 7 yards. (I can't help but put a plug in for a compact .45...).
The next ring is out to about 25 yards. Maybe a nine, but again, .45 rules.
Next is 25-100 yards. Here, shotguns rule.
Then comes the 100-200 yard range. This is the forte of the average battle rifle, and deer rifle. Your 7.62x39 is about the equivalent of your Winchester .30-30. Keep that in mind, you SKS and AK owners! (for thread fidelity, also the Mini-s).
Beyond 200 yards, you can inflict lethal wounds on your deer-sized opponents, but usually only by chance. Here you need a thirty caliber rifle. A bolt action .30 cal will suit nicely unless you are facing the Jihad-hoarde. FN-FALs do well for hoarde suppression, as do M1s.
The bottom line, and my recommendation for an arsenal is: .45 ACP for close, 12 ga. for intermediate, .30 cal for long (semi- or bolt).
The trick is to determine what your specific needs are based on your anticipated situation.
Flame on!
Kit.
Not in California. :-(
With no wind in Pierre, SD (a very very rare event), we hit groundhogs very infrequently at 600m-700m. But it can be done with good equipment, good training, lots of practice, and God on your side holding the wind back for you.
bragger!
P.S. If you reload, Bushmaster has PMC 223 brass for about $25 delivered per 1,000. Using Benchmark powder (outstanding temperature stability and consistant velocity), and a variety of bullets (55gr Noslers Ballistic tips my favorite, cost more though) I reload for about $120-$140 per 1,000, and get near match grade ammo that I trust. I also seal the primers and crimp with a professionally result.
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