Proper Lubrication of Your Pistol and Revolver

Cylinder & Slide ^ | unk | Bill Laughridge

[OXENinFLA]

Thanks

[newgeezer]

Ping.

This gives me an idea for a break from the honey-do list over the holidays.

[xsrdx]

Firepower FP10

This same "FP 10" lubricant is sold by Shooters Choice. Tremendously effective weapons lube.

[OldSmaj]

Great article.

Thanks.

I don't usually recommend or endorse or put a preference on a particular product, however, I've had the good fortune to use the Militec products for nearly two years, now.

I've had nothing but excellent results with all of the products.

I did a freeze and fry test with the metal conditioner (NSN 9150-01-415-9112) and had my son use it while on his last tour in Iraq.

Even though it was decidedly unscientific, I found no change in the viscosity properties of any of the lubricants and had no problems with any of them.

My son reports that the grease (synthetic base) does attract grit, which there was plenty of in Iraq. It's been my experience that any lube does that if over-applied.

He tells me that they found that over-application on the 92F's, even at the risk of attracting grit, was better than under-application because after one or two rounds, the carbon fouling was so great.

Over-application helped to keep the grit and carbon fouling in suspension and helped to keep the weapon functioning.

His opinion, of course.

I guess each generation has to learn on their own. We of the VN experience learned that a half-bottle of CLP was the minimum on the M-16, at least on the one's we got that replaced the M-14, in '68-'69-'70.

As far as my 1911, I've found that the Militec does a great job of slide lube, and it really doesn't matter as to how much, as long as the contact points on the slide are coated.

I've lubed up with the Militec, put 150 rounds thru the weapon and still observed the lube on the slide contact points and had no jams attributed to lubrication. (The only jams I've ever had with my 1911 was attributed to magazines.)

Anyway, here's a little plug for the guys at Militec. They're troop-friendly and will go out of their way to help. At one time, they were sending one ounce sample bottles to troops in Iraq; don't know if they still are, but in any event they have a good product and they're good folks.

[Mulder]

Ping for reading tonight...

[ExSoldier]

I use Militec, as well. The great thing about them is that they will send anyone a FREE SAMPLE of their product. But they have sent a lot more than free samples to field troops in a combat zone and that was free too! Troops love the stuff, since it seems to be tons better than CLP BreakFree.

[MarkL]

I was lucky enough to meet Bill many years ago at the Kansas Indoor USPSA National competition in Overland Park, KS. He's a really nice guy and a crackerjack gunsmith. Cylinder and Slide is known for some of the world's best Colt Python and Browning Hi-Power work.

I can't remember what it's called, but he used to sell a solvent for cleaning guns that was in a bucket. You would just remove the grips and completely submerge the handgun. It was great for cleaning and lubing the lockwork on revolvers.

Mark

[t_skoz]

BTTT!!! great article, thanks

[ExSoldier]

There's a small commercial for the product you mention at the end of the article. I included it.

[opus86]

Read later.

[Tunehead54]

Read later bump! ;-)

[boofus]

Oil your slide or you might die!

[MarkL]

I can't remember what it's called, but he used to sell a solvent for cleaning guns that was in a bucket. You would just remove the grips and completely submerge the handgun. It was great for cleaning and lubing the lockwork on revolvers.

DUH!!! What a bonehead... The next to last paragraph mentioned it by name... "Dunk-kit"

It really is good stuff. Especially for those of us who dare not EVER remove the sideplate of a S&W revolver. I've NEVER been able to get a revolver to function after removing the sideplate. The three times I tied it, I wound up having to take my revolver to a friend for reassembly (he happens to be a master tool and die maker, and a top notch gunsmith, thank goodness). But after the third time, I had to promise him that I'd never remove the sideplate of a revolver again. Funny, I've never had any problems with semi-autos... 1911s, Ruger MkIIs, Taurus (well, no big deal there!), M-14 rifle... But revolvers! No way!

Mark

[jdege]

Don't oil your pistol?

What nonsense is this?

The standard is what it has always been - a light coat of
oil.

A light coat is what is left after you apply oil and then wipe it dry. (You can't get all of the oil off a piece of metal unless you use detergents.)

[ExSoldier]

Did you read the article? BTW a lot of folks have always parroted the old saying about Glocks: that they shoot better dry. Glocks need less lubrication than most pistols, but they do need it!

[genefromjersey]

I use KY Jelly on MY gun..........

[ExSoldier]

It better not be the one you use for "fighting...."

[Eaker]

We should be more hospitable and invite the trolls to attend one of Eaker's Family Firepower Demos in person.

The Eaker's are always willing to oblige a troll!!!

Merry Christmas to y'all all!!!

Here is a couple of pix from a New Year past!

Humblegunner

Rikastrom

PS: I Like Militec.

Silly yeller book in the background!!

[Iris7]

I think if I were in Iraq and rear echelon enough that I was not likely to have to use it real heavy duty I'd lube personal weapons with Dri-Slide, which drys not sticky unless over applied. That dust must just pack tight into every crevice, what a mess.