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Atkins diet has heavy influence on business
Fort Worth Star-Telegram ^ | 26 January, 2004 | Dave Ferman

Posted on 01/26/2004 1:50:14 PM PST by SWake

Atkins diet has heavy influence on business

By Dave Ferman Star-Telegram Staff Writer

In 14 years of serving barbecue, Dustin Clark has never seen anything like this: Day after day, customer after customer at the Railhead Smokehouse in Colleyville orders meat and water -- and nothing else.

They might ask for a half-pound of ribs or turkey, or a full pound of sliced beef, but it's always just meat and water, meat and water, 30 or so customers a day.

"It's big-time now," Clark said. "You hear 'Atkins' all day long. It's been pretty constant for about a year."

With so many people making New Year's resolutions to lose weight, the low-carbohydrate Atkins diet has enjoyed another surge in popularity in the past few weeks.

"We're up in terms of sales of low-carb foods 25 percent in January as compared to December," said Dean Owens, specialty foods director at Central Market in Fort Worth. "And Atkins is the best-known."

Central Market and dozens of other area businesses, from Railhead to Denton's 117-year-old Morrison Milling Co., are feeling the effects -- good or bad -- of the Atkins diet, the wildly successful legacy of Dr. Robert Atkins, who died in April.

Atkins has become a cultural phenomenon: Dr. Atkins' New Diet Revolution has sold millions of copies, actresses Jennifer Aniston and Renee Zellweger have tried the diet, and David Letterman gets laughs mentioning it in one of his Top 10 lists. And someone you know is probably on it.

The craze has led to numerous chains jumping on the bandwagon. McDonald's, for example, is using brochures in some restaurants that help customers cut the carbs and reduce fats. Burger King just introduced a bunless cheeseburger, and On the Border is offering tortilla-free lettuce-wrap fajitas.

Although there are dozens of diets to choose from, area food experts and business owners say they have never seen one that has drawn such interest among such a wide range of people.

"In 30 years in the industry, I've never seen anything like this," said Susan Sexton, whole health category manager for United Supermarkets, which includes four Market Street stores. "Even in the smallest, littlest towns I put Atkins and low-carb products. The diet is heavy on meat and fat, and it fits right in with people's lifestyle, especially Texans' diets."

Around since the 1970s, but only gaining major popularity in the past few years, Atkins has drawn both converts and serious criticism from some nutritionists with a regime that emphasizes meat, eggs and cheese and cuts out many types of bread, pasta, fruit and sugar to severely cut carbohydrate intake.

White bread, that time-tested favorite of the American table, is out.

Atkins isn't going away largely because, at least short term, it works, according to Lyn Dart, a professor of nutritional sciences at Texas Christian University.

"People can live with it, and they can find the food readily, and they can continue to go to restaurants," Dart said.

Many business owners say Atkins has not meant decreasing sales, but rather adapting to market trends.

At Weinberger's Delicatessen in Grapevine, owner Dan Weinberger says many customers still want their Polish sausage or pastrami sandwiches, just without the bun or bread.

"It's had quite an impact," he said. "It's like a domino effect -- one person in line will have a Polish sausage without the bun and other people in line will do the same thing. I think it shows people are getting tremendous results. One guy who comes in dropped 40 pounds, and I was floored by how fast."

The meat-laden diet has meant increased sales for such businesses as Hurst's Honeybaked Hams. Store manager David Rutherford says he's seeing an extra five or six customers each week.

Some customers who used to come in just a few times a year, at Thanksgiving and Christmas, are now in "every other week, or at least once a month."

"The people who come in for ham or turkey or ribs are very happy with the diet," said Rutherford, who has lost 35 pounds since he went on the Atkins diet last summer. "You can munch on ham or turkey all day."

Large stores, such as Market Street and Central Market, have adapted by adding more low-carb foods and grouping them.

Central Market is devoting an entire aisle to low-carb items such as brown rice and spelt pastas, and low-carb bread and brownie mixes. The store is also offering low-carb recipes.

"There's been no decline in sales. People are looking for carb substitutes," Owens said. "This past summer we started seeing the demand, and we added five times the number of [low-carb] products. Everyone's getting on the bandwagon since the holidays."

United Supermarkets' Sexton has a similar story: The Market Street store in Colleyville recently grouped many low-carb items in a 12-foot section. Also, she notes, sales of pork rinds have gone through the roof.

"People are looking for a low-carb or no-carb product with flavor," she said.

Flouring discontent

Although some businesses are finding a smooth transition through the Atkins age, others in the wheat and grain industry are worried about the future.

U.S. bread sales have been flat for a year, according to Judi Adams, president of the Wheat Foods Council in Denver.

"And I know a lot of bakeries are providing customers with low-carb bread to boost sales," she said.

As might be expected, Adams is no fan of Atkins. She says that while wheat flour consumption has dropped an average of 10 pounds per American per year since 1997, obesity levels continue to rise. Childhood obesity has become a major health issue.

Bread, she says, is not the culprit. Bad eating habits and lack of exercise are.

"People want a quick fix," she said. "People don't exercise as much, and kids spend a lot of time behind computers. It's no wonder we're overweight. People want a magic bullet, and there's always a fad diet."

Not everyone is worried. Sales at Fort Worth's most famous bakery, Mrs Baird's, have not been affected, according to company spokesman David Margulies, in part because the company has introduced new bread lines featuring whole grains and fewer carbs.

"There's just been a demand for more variety in breads," Margulies said. "People are becoming more sophisticated and their tastes are becoming more sophisticated. This is just an opportunity."

But he, too, is no fan of Atkins.

"It's a lot of hype," he said. "Our doughnut sales are doing great, too. And we're still baking 120 loaves of white bread per minute. Our message is, it's not the carbs, it's the calories. A balanced diet is the only way to lose weight."

But businesses are being stung, at least a little. The 10 percent to 15 percent surge in sales Morrison Milling usually enjoys during the holiday baking season didn't happen last year, Chief Executive Harry Crumpacker said.

Supermarkets and food distributors that buy the company's flour, cornmeal and baking mixes just didn't need as much as in 2002. As a result, Crumpacker said, "we're not losing money, but we're not making as much as we're used to making."

Popular -- but durable?

The big question is, how many people will stay with the diet?

Even detractors admit that, yes, many people drop weight quickly. But observers and participants both say there are often drawbacks.

For one thing, a diet that emphasizes meat can be expensive. For another, some people lose a certain amount of weight quickly and then "plateau," finding it hard to maintain the weight or lose more.

"It's happened to me, and a lot of my customers say the same thing. They plateau after three to five months," Rutherford said.

Sexton said many people "don't ever quite transition from the beginning period to reintroducing fruits and vegetables and grains to maintain healthy eating. I see people do it for a month, and then they binge, get a big pizza or a big plate of pasta."

What's more likely is that people will go off the diet but continue to make eating choices that include lower carbs, or that they will go back to their old ways and take up the diet again when they are trying to lose weight for a short period of time.

But rising fast behind Atkins is another low-carb/high-protein juggernaut. The South Beach Diet, written by Dr. Arthur Agatston, also gives a big thumbs-down to white bread, rice and pastas, and promotes eating fish, chicken and apples, among other foods.

The three-phase diet has been endorsed by Bill and Hillary Clinton, and is seen by some as easier and with more options than Atkins.

Some people are dubious that either diet will be around for long.

"I think people will still eat pasta and comfort foods," said Owens, of Central Market. "You set out a plate of hot bread and butter in this store and see how long it lasts."

Low-carb foods

What makes a product "low-carb?" For more information, go to www.star-telegram.com

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dave Ferman, (817) 685-3957 dferman@star-telegram.com

--------------

Article Sidebar:

What is 'low-carb'?

Low-carb foods are all the rage these days, but what exactly does that mean?

It's more complicated than you might think.

Carbohydrates are one of the body's three macro-nutrients, along with protein and fat, said Lyn Dart, a professor of nutritional sciences at Texas Christian University. Carbs provide energy and are one of the main foundations for body structure.

High amounts of carbs are found in foods with a lot of starch, such as grains, potatoes and fruit, Dart said. When consumed, carbs break down into glucose.

"Glucose is the number one fuel the body burns," said Dart. "And if a body doesn't have carbs, it has to go to fat for energy." And fat being burned, of course, leads to weight loss."

Dart recommends five to 10 grams of carbs per meal, or 25 to 30 grams per day. Anything above 35 to 50 grams per day would generally be considered a high-carb diet.

"What I recommend for someone trying a low-carb diet," said Dart, "is that they work with someone who can help design the diet and keep track of their health while they're on it and assess the diet after one month, two months, three months."

Unfortunately, there is no official standard for what makes a product "low-carb."

"The FDA (Food and Drug Administration) does not have a definition," said Mrs Baird's spokesman Shane Sumrow. "Companies are saying, 'Our bread is lower in carbs or has fewer carbs than an average piece of bread.' That's how they get around it."

Restaurants have various ways of designating menu items as low-carb. At Sushi Sam in Southlake, for example, broccoli subs for rice in the low-carb lunch box, and sushi rolls do away with the rice in favor of wheat noodles or lettuce.

And various restaurants satisfy low-carb lovers by simply leaving out the bread or tortillas on anything from barbecue to fajitas.

-- Dave Ferman


TOPICS: Extended News; US: Texas
KEYWORDS: atkins; lowcarb
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The most interesting parts of the article to me are:

1) All the businesses mentioned are here in my corner of the D/FW Metroplex, and

2) Morrison Milling's Chief Executive is named Harry Crumpacker.

1 posted on 01/26/2004 1:50:14 PM PST by SWake
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To: SWake
We can create multimegaton nuclear blasts, put a R/C car on Mars and reshape women's breasts, why can't we produce a zero carb chocolate chip cookie?
2 posted on 01/26/2004 1:53:55 PM PST by not2bbpb
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To: SWake; aculeus; general_re
Morrison Milling's Chief Executive is named Harry Crumpacker.

Noted and passed along.

3 posted on 01/26/2004 1:54:02 PM PST by dighton
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To: SWake
Some people are dubious that either diet will be around for long.

Bwahahaaa- heeeeheeeehhoooo- hahahaaaa. Oh that's good.

4 posted on 01/26/2004 1:56:31 PM PST by Lil'freeper (By all that we hold dear on this good Earth I bid you stand, men of the West!)
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To: SWake
what i find interesting is we only get one chance on this earth and so many people are turning into boring compulsives...in other words, they've got to loosen up and please stop the prosletyzing. the key to losing weight is getting off your butt and eating less. it actually works.
5 posted on 01/26/2004 1:56:52 PM PST by contessa machiaveli
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To: SWake
They might ask for a half-pound of ribs or turkey, or a full pound of sliced beef, but it's always just meat and water, meat and water, 30 or so customers a day.

And yet, these people aren't doing Atkins (at least not correctly) because standard barbeque sauce has tons of sugar and is not really appropriate for any phase of the diet.

6 posted on 01/26/2004 1:56:54 PM PST by Mr. Jeeves
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To: not2bbpb
We can create multimegaton nuclear blasts, put a R/C car on Mars and reshape women's breasts, why can't we produce a zero carb chocolate chip cookie?

It's called a brick. Or did you want it to taste good?

7 posted on 01/26/2004 2:02:32 PM PST by balrog666 (Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe.)
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To: contessa machiaveli
the key to losing weight is getting off your butt and eating less. it actually works.

Hmmmm. I exercised regularly (4-6 times a week) for a year and ate less. I was starving all of the time and didn't lose weight. I've lost over 35 pounds on Atkins while maintaining the exact same exercise regimen. Guess what? It actually works.

8 posted on 01/26/2004 2:06:39 PM PST by Young Rhino (http://www.artofdivorce.com)
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To: Mr. Jeeves
And yet, these people aren't doing Atkins (at least not correctly) because standard barbeque sauce has tons of sugar and is not really appropriate for any phase of the diet.

Ya ain't no Texan, sir. We don't smother our meat in sauce down he'ya. No, we use a good garlic, salt and spice rub; and simmer our BBQ nice and slow. The BBQ sauce down here has more vinegar, pepper, and tomato base and 'maybe' a wee bit of molasses. But, if yer talking about drowning your meat in sugary BBQ sauce, ya ain't likely talkin' about traditional Tejas BBQ. Texas style BBQ is much lower in carbs. IMHO. (No offence intended to the St. Louis style, or Arkansas BBQ fans - everyone does BBQ a bit differently; and frankly ... it's darn hard to ruin a good brisket)

9 posted on 01/26/2004 2:07:28 PM PST by Hodar (With Rights, comes Responsibilities. Don't assume one, without assuming the other.)
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To: Hodar
it's darn hard to ruin a good brisket)

You sir, have not met my girlfriend.

10 posted on 01/26/2004 2:16:11 PM PST by Pukin Dog (Sans Reproache)
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To: SWake
"White bread, that time-tested favorite of the American table, is out."

Time tested? Not as much time as you might think. Sliced white bread is a relatively novel idea.

1928 Inventor Otto Frederick Rohwedder perfects the commercial bread slicer after 15 years of work, and it is used for the first time in a commercial bakery at Chillicothe, Mo. Consumers are suspicious at first.

1930 Sliced bread makes a broader debut under a national brand. Sliced bread (and the introduction of the automatic toaster) has increased consumption of toast at breakfast.

11 posted on 01/26/2004 2:22:25 PM PST by adam_az (Be vewy vewy qwiet, I'm hunting weftists.)
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To: contessa machiaveli
"in other words, they've got to loosen up and please stop the prosletyzing. the key to losing weight is getting off your butt and eating less. it actually works."

Are you making the claim that low carb ketogenic diets don't work, ie, people don't lose lots of weight on them and keep it off?

Sounds more like you are prosletyzing.
12 posted on 01/26/2004 2:23:56 PM PST by adam_az (Be vewy vewy qwiet, I'm hunting weftists.)
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To: Pukin Dog
My condolences...
13 posted on 01/26/2004 2:31:30 PM PST by AgentEcho (If there are no dogs in Heaven, then when I die I want to go where they went. - Will Rogers)
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To: dighton; general_re; SWake
Morrison Milling's Chief Executive is named Harry Crumpacker.

So noted.


14 posted on 01/26/2004 2:36:02 PM PST by aculeus
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To: AgentEcho
Dont worry. Her hooters make up for her cooking.
15 posted on 01/26/2004 2:40:59 PM PST by Pukin Dog (Sans Reproache)
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To: aculeus; dighton; SWake
Hairy Crumbpacker?


16 posted on 01/26/2004 3:05:34 PM PST by general_re ("Consistency requires you to be as ignorant today as you were a year ago." - Bernard Berenson)
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To: bjcintennessee
PING
17 posted on 01/26/2004 3:10:46 PM PST by ImaTexan
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To: Young Rhino
but are you enjoying yourself? don't you ever want a bowl of pasta or hot bread straight from the oven?
are you having any fun or are you one of those people who sit and count calories, carbs, fat, sugar.




18 posted on 01/26/2004 4:02:25 PM PST by contessa machiaveli
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To: adam_az
even the word "ketogenic" sounds a bit anal....i'm not preachin honey but folks on atkins sound more and more like scientologists or bots.
i just find that people on these special diets aren't very much fun.
19 posted on 01/26/2004 4:08:00 PM PST by contessa machiaveli
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To: contessa machiaveli
but are you enjoying yourself?

Alot happier without the weight than with it. No bowl of pasta or hot bread is worth gaining it back. The carb cravings have long disappeared so neither sounds that appetizing. I don't count carbs or calories. I simply eat low carb foods when I'm hungry. Developed into a habit within a month.

20 posted on 01/26/2004 4:14:05 PM PST by Young Rhino (http://www.artofdivorce.com)
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