Posted on 01/28/2025 3:07:44 PM PST by TexasKamaAina
General Motors is now the subject of an NHTSA investigation after more than a thousand complaints were logged over sudden and catastrophic failure of some of its “L87” 6.2-liter V8s—a core power plant for Cadillac, Chevy, and GMC trucks. It’s actually the latest in a string of uncommon but linked reliability problems to impact the 5.3- and 6.2-liter small block families over several recent model years—a notably bad run for what’s supposed to be an uncomplicated, naturally-aspirated V8 engine.
(Excerpt) Read more at thedrive.com ...
“I am a little surprised that a 6.2l engine is considered a “small block”. My ‘65 383 Mopar engine was a big block, and is about the same displacement.”
Size, not displacement.
The 383 has a larger bore and probably larger bore spacing.
I don’t think Mopar uses small/big block officially. It was a GM thing bit it became cool to have a big block label.
Mopar increase the bore and it became the 400.
“Decent car, but the block heater doesn’t turn on until -20, which really sucks.”
Clarification for US lurkers. It comes on at -18 CENTIGRADE. That is 0 degrees F.
The thermostat is in the cable engine end. It is possible to get a cable without a thermostat.
Sounds planned.
“...purchase doesn’t have cylinder deactivation. Of course, it’s a 2009”
I’m in that 2008-2012 sweet spot and plan on staying there. One of the vehicles is actually a 2019 but is a 2012 design with virtually no changes other than cosmetic so good to go.
My error? Thermostat in plug end. Can be physically modified.
Buyer beware. Under certain conditions DTC P0166 may be set.
Scroll down: https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/47527-53l-engine-block-heater/page/3/
I used to have a Ford Escape Hybrid with start/stop. I worked fine until winter when I would come to a stop light and the ventilation would quickly go from heat to blast freeze. I had to get rid of it after the foolishly mounted rear shock broke though the wheel well into the cabin.
Rotors are cheaper now than they were 25 years ago. Back then a rotor would cost you $75 or so (and it was usually made in the USA or Canada) Now you can get them for $30 (and they’re made in China). At least this is what I’ve seen.
As a result, nobody turns rotors anymore. Just buy new ones.
Some (maybe many, maybe most) hybrids have an electric water pump to keep the coolant circulating through the engine and heater core after the engine has shut off.
Sometimes this pump fails, and you’ll get cold air within a few seconds of the engine shutting off, because the coolant pump on the engine works when it’s running, but not when it isn’t.
I have the 2005 6.0L in my Silverado. I have had two problems. Torque converter failure (comes standard with Chevy) which I then upgraded to a performance after market.
Cracked exhaust manifold which comes from towing maximum load up steep mountains with engine floored for half an hour or so.
Did GMC send you the name replacement stickers for your Denali?
No, never heard of name replacement stickers for my Denali. Nor have I experienced torque converter failure, but at 238,000 miles, who knows. Mine is a towing beast, but I’ve never put it to the test as you have. I’ll be happy if I can get another 100K out of it.
Things are moving fast, the name replacement stickers may be a recall. In the meantime a magic marker should suffice to write Mt McKinley.
I’ll take “timing chains that look like bicycle chains” for 500, Alex.
“There has to be a thermostat adjustment to correct this. “
The “thermostat” is in the cord plug. It can’t be adjusted but can be “modified”¹
Buyer beware.
Correct. His does.
“it is being cold started at every stop light.”
No, it is not. That engine is plenty warm. Col starts mean the engine has sat over night, cooled, the parts are slightly shrunk from the cold, and the oil has dripped to the bottom of the engine. A minute at a stop light means nothing.
I worked in a non-union position in a UAW GM factory for a year or so.
I agree-I will never knowingly buy a UAW product.
There's no such thing anymore.
Speaking of timing chains.... just recently did a complete timing set job, in vehicle, on a 3.5 EcoBoost in a ‘14 Exploder due to a failing water pump. No special tools were used and it was a royal PITA. Fired right up and ran like a champ though. Not bad for my first one. Don’t think I’ll do another one anytime soon as this was for one of the young’uns.
Correct. The Stop/Start is disabled until the engine warms up.
“Speaking of timing chains.... just recently did a complete timing set job, in vehicle, on a 3.5 EcoBoost in a ‘14 Exploder due to a failing water pump.”
Why would a failing water pump affect timing?
Or was that just a good time to replace the chain and phasers?
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