This I began writing two weeks ago as an overnight guest in a cosy cabin on a farm beside an endless dirt road in the most remote part of the north-western Cape Province in the country of my birth, South Africa. To many eyes this might seem a landscape of utter desolation: hot, dry and windswept scrubland plateau, flat as far as the eye can see but cut by deep, rocky canyons tight with the most intense and diverse profusion of succulents on the planet: flowering aloes, spiky aloes, furry aloes, ground-creeping aloes and the strange giant palm-like aloe, the Quiver Tree.
Jostling among them, the thorn bushes are murderous. You’d be mad, heroic or both to farm here, but our hosts do, grazing sheep over their thousands of hectares watered only by a couple of wind-pumps with drinking troughs. Scorched by day, frozen by night, to make your life here you’d need either to believe in Destiny with a capital D, or to have no choice. Both are true of our Afrikaner hosts: on their shelves are devotional paperbacks and a game called Bible Charades; above my bed a sweet farmyard painting illustrating Psalm 23, though its owners have hardly been led beside the still waters. Their church, I assume, will be South Africa’s Dutch Reformed Church (DRC).
We English children were imbued with the prejudice that Afrikaners were oafs: the Boers were boors
Touring this part of Africa on both sides of the great Orange River (Namibia on the north bank), we have met many such white families, all Afrikaners, all making their living in the toughest of environments, none of them less than devoted to this continent of their birth – and parents’ and grandparents’ and great-grandparents’ birth – but few of them (were they to think about it, which perhaps they don’t) with anywhere else to go. Their nationality is South African. The Netherlands lost interest in them two centuries ago. The British mistreated and made war on them, incarcerated them in concentration camps where tens of thousands died, robbed them of the independence for which they’d fought, and have looked down on them and their culture ever since. Since the end of the second world war the wider world has regarded Afrikaners as pariahs: the architects of apartheid.
Here, from an Afrikaner perspective, is their potted history. As Dutch settlers, their ancestors arrived in the mid-17th century, but the British soon eyed up the fertile and strategically important Cape, and muscled in, finally ousting the Dutch jurisdiction at the beginning of the 19th century, sending over large numbers of English settlers and subjugating the Afrikaners’ ancestors, who had developed from Dutch their own variant language, Afrikaans.