Do any FReepers have experience with "Vulkem Max"?

Me | 8/25/2024 | Paul R.

[Paul R.]

Do any FReepers have experience with a product called "Vulkem Max"? This appears to be a considerably improved version of Vulkem 116, a well established and very good product itself, used for caulking and sealing in difficult conditions / situations, but I can't even find any reviews on the web for Vulkem Max.

[Paul R.]

I am very curious as to whether Vulkem Max will function as a super durable, super tenacious adhesive. I plan to give some a test in the most difficult gluing challenge I know of: Re-attaching the soles of hard used work boots or shoes to the rest of the shoe. Tips or experience would be very useful.

In any event, if this adhesive(?) can function and hold up for a long time in the "shoe repair" application, then I figure it should be durable and tenacious in most any "aerobic" (where moisture and air can attack it) usage.

Thanks in advance!

[Clay Moore]

I’ve used 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive (the yellow gorilla snot) but by the time boots get to this point, they are done so you are just buying a short time.

[Deaf Smith]

Caulk is not a adhesive.

For shoes/boots you would want to find an adhesive that is flexible like that used to manufacture Chinese foot wear.

[Paul R.]

I would add that “Through The Roof” sealant appears to be basically the same stuff as “Shoe Goop” (and also E6000), and “Shoe Goop” is IMO pretty marginal in difficult usages. (That includes my “standard test” of repairing shoes or boots with soles coming loose!

Note: Except for quite pricey products, once the shoe and boot industry moved overseas for the most part, I’m not sure whether it is the adhesives or the substrates or both, but shoes and boots just don’t hold up well anymore. I have a pair of light work boots bought from Wally World under their brand of “Brahma” about 30 years ago, and they are still “together”, although I did get them re-heeled many years ago, because the heels had worn so badly! They are just a bit too tight on me now, and the heels and soles are worn smooth, so, traction in them is poor. :-(

Anyway, the point is, even modest price products should be able to not fall apart...

[Paul R.]

Silicone “caulk” makes in the right uses very good adhesive (and in past years sometimes the tubes would even be labelled as “adhesive and caulk.)

The freaking Chinese adhesives aren’t worth a crap. I have huge experience with them in both personal and industrial situations.

[Repeal The 17th]

Gorilla Glue

[Deaf Smith]

I did not feel the need to include a s/ tag about Chinese products.

[PeterPrinciple]

I am very curious as to whether Vulkem Max

---

Have you considered that it is the same old vulkem with a new label?

Like new and improved Tide for whiter whites?

[PeterPrinciple]

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=shoe+glue+heavy+duty&crid=ZCI7T6VSRSWE&sprefix=shoe+glue%2Caps%2C153&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_2_9

shoe glue evaluations.

[Paul R.]

BTW, you should try sometime removing a woofer from a speaker cabinet into which the woofer was “glued” using silicone “caulk”. If the woofer frame is light, you may bend it, and regardless, some of the cabinet will probably depart the rest of the cabinet, with the woofer... (That’s when caulk is too good an adhesive for the job!)

When it comes to solvent base adhesives, I used to have access to a product called “Moyen 3065”. It’s basically a heat activated glue (lay down a layer, let it surface dry to barely tacky, then press the parts together with heat and considerable pressure - bam! Once cooled, it’ll take serious work to get the parts apart again.) But, 3065 can be used as conventional contact cement (just press the parts together while the glue is still soft and tacky) or as a conventional bead of glue and clamp the parts for a few hours. That last gives great adhesion on many surfaces, as the glue has time to really get into the pores of both substrates. However, the solvent base may actually damage some plastic substrates, while not being very effective on, for example, polypropylene.

[eyedigress]

I take it you are using FR over AI. Nice

[Paul R.]

Both are sold @ Menards, and the prices and product descriptions are different. Even the flexibility rating is different (much better for “Max”.)

[Paul R.]

Well, I’m hoping someone has actually used this product. Like I said, I found not one review on “Vulchem Max” on the web.

[Deaf Smith]

Or go the Don Johnson route in Harley Davidson And the Marlboro Man and use duct tape “because it is the only thing my old man ever gave me” on his boots.

[21twelve]

Somebody at my old job used GE Silicone “caulk” to waterproof some electronics. Except he didn’t use it as a caulk but as a glue.

I only recall the boss coming along and yelling and swearing at him about how is he going to ever get inside it again to repair it now that it is sealed with XXXXX-psi strong glue.

[Paul R.]

That’s a very interesting link if one is primarily looking to repair shoes. However, I have “more” in mind. For example, the “Vulchem Max” is rated for wet surface applications.

The product page (description & specs) on Menards website is pretty impressive and super competitive with other products costing much more...

https://www.menards.com/main/paint/caulks-sealants/silicone-caulk/tremco-reg-vulkem-reg-max-pro-series-non-sag-sealant-10-1-oz/389246/p-1642874296842386-c-7935.htm

[Paul R.]

Yup. I’ve used “silicone caulk” as slow set adhesive many times, with great results, but, it IS picky about what substrates it will hang on to, sometimes.

[Paul R.]

Haha - well, I was thinking about using some “Gorilla tape” to patch some ol’ work jeans with a hole in one leg.

[Paul R.]

Compare the specs. Other than actual strength of the glue itself (not the same thing as the bond to the substrate), it appears Vulchem Max kills Gorilla glue in many uses...

Gorilla glue is good stuff, I just find their products to be often overpriced for the capabilities..

[Deaf Smith]

Iron on patches have been around for 50 years and fabric glue is a thing for jeans.