Posted on 01/19/2024 9:19:40 AM PST by ganeemead
Use 0W-20, if it asks for it. It should be a good synthetic oil and, if now having some miles on it, use a High Mileage formulation, like the Valvoline Full Synthetic 0W-20 High Mileage oil from Walmart. Use an excellent oil filter, like the Fram Ultra Synthetic filter, also from Walmart.
Get a good air filter, too, and use a magnetic drain plug that is removed and cleaned, every oil change.
This will keep your car from losing oil between oil changes and help it start on cold winter days.
I think the most IMPORTANT thing a car owner can do when it comes to very cold weather is to reserve enough time in your morning startup routine to let the engine (and oil) to come up to temperature. Don’t REV the engine to speed the warming up and all that. Let the engine idle for several minutes.
My truck has an “air recycle” switch that times off after about 5 minutes and that’s what I use as a guide on startup. I don’t REV or move until that cycles off.
My cars take 10 quarts each of a certain type of full synthetic Mobil One for emissions
Either/or
“It’s interesting, in the non-turbo version of my car, 0W-20 is recommended, while 0W-30 is the recommended weight in the turbo version.”
The oil runs at a hotter temp in the Turbo versions and gets thinner. The turbo heats the oil more than it regularly would because oil flow is how they cool the turbo bearings. Same heat issue is true in the desert southwest with extremely hot temps.
So your example says it all. Extreme heat (severe duty) conditions actually do require a little heavier oil. Such as turbo models and very hot environmental conditions. I don’t care what the manufacturer says...
“I don’t believe for a minute that low viscosity 0-20W oil protects your engine better than 10-30W. I think it may be worse.
I think the use of 0-20W has ONLY to do with maximizing fuel economy to meet the ridiculous CAFE standards currently in place. If it causes your car to fail 20,000 miles sooner than 10-30W, than “oh well”!
It is all about meeting CAFE standards, not about superior protection. I think 0-20W does better during warmup but when you drive 2 hours straight, I think the viscosity is TOO low.
I don’t trust anybody anymore. When the experts say low viscosity oil is superior, you have to ask, superior in what regard. I am very skeptical about the protection 0-20W oil provides. I am convinced it is only about maximizing MPGs for EPA milleage tests.”
Absolutely. I have been a shop owner and in the repair business all my life and I absolutely agree 100%. It depends on conditions such as warmer summer months and/or hot desert environments.
The “one size fit’s all” just does not actually apply as they claim.
“no spark plug changes required every 10k miles”
A lot of folks here either forgot or never knew the thrill of nursing a car to 100,000 miles and watching the odo rollover to all zeros.
Less politely, RTFM.
“I’m sure you will get a lot of snide comments but the straight answer is to use what the manufacturer recommends. In the case of the 0w-20, the tolerances in the engine are really tight so using a thicker oil may not allow some parts to be lubed the way they should.”
THIS.
The turbo heats the oil more than it regularly would because oil flow is how they cool the turbo bearings.
Another good reason not to immediately shut down a turbosupercharged engine when it has been runnin hard. Give it a few minutes at idle to let the turbine and its bearings cool down.
I got 250000 miles on my Toyota Truck using 0-20. It was still running like new when I sold it.
higher viscosity will prolly strain the pump etc. to some degree...
Oh well, I guess it bears repeating.
How do you think molasses would work instead? Coal tar?
Use the viscosity for which the engine was designed. There might be a slight modification for time of year, but don’t just assume that either.
Word of wisdom. Don’t use Fram anything. They are the sorriest filter you can buy.
Yes, it’s my wife’s. But I’m not too proud to drive it around. It’s been a great van.
“Another good reason not to immediately shut down a turbosupercharged engine when it has been runnin hard. Give it a few minutes at idle to let the turbine and its bearings cool down.”
Absolutely. Especially important on diesel engines because of the higher temps the turbo operates at. Under load up a hill they can get bright orange. The exhaust temps on diesels are much higher than gasoline engines. That turbo is basically a fan forced forge on that cast iron case and bearings on the exhaust side. And the only thing between it and failure is a couple degrees the oil flow prevents as a cooling agent.
But this habit should absolutely be practiced with both.
Sounds like your are knowledgeable so here is one for you related to patience and proper habits. White steam automobile company had flash boilers that could make steam within 5 minutes. And they had a closed system that had a condenser so that very little water was lost making and using steam. Steam is still to this day more efficient than Gas or diesel. But because no one had the patience to warm up a car for 5 minutes (or let a turbo cool down at shut down) the gasoline engine won the day.
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