Not a good month for Brazil.
Vaxx takes out another legend.... /s
Neptune finally took him.
At 51 seconds you can see him fall off his board.
https://twitter.com/radiobandnewsfm/status/1611323549376987137?s=20&t=28zp3bEQ427wUTwtoAqYnw
47 is getting a little old for the extreme stuff.
I like in Mark Twain’s book “Letters from Hawaii”. In 1866 he was describing surfers to America that had never heard of it.
“SURFING
In one place we came upon a large company of naked natives, of both sexes and all ages, amusing themselves with the national pastime of surf- bathing. Each heathen would paddle three or four hundred yards out to sea (taking a short board with him), then face the shore and wait for a particularly prodigious billow to come along; at the right moment he would fling his board upon its foamy crest and himself upon the board, and here he would come whizzing by like a bombshell! It did not seem that a lightning express-train could shoot along at a more hair-lifting speed. I tried surf-bathing once, subsequently, but made a failure of it. I got the board placed right, and at the right moment, too; but missed the connection myself. The board struck the shore in three-quarters of a second, without any cargo, and I struck the bottom about the same time, with a couple of barrels of water in me. None but natives ever master the art of surf-bathing thoroughly.
- Roughing It”
All I need is a cool buzz and some tasty waves......
Now they call him, ‘Dead dog’.
The comments are outstanding. I truly enjoyed them!