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To: dragnet2
Do you recall about how much they charged for lowering it?

I paid cash for the bike (new) in 2008. It was a just released 2009 model. The sales guy just directed the shop to "do it" as part of the sale. I had to order a shorter kickstand as the original was too long after lowering. That was about $35. I installed it myself. Tip: go to Harbor Freight in the "brake" tools. They sell a tool for pulling springs in a drum brake assembly. It is just the right tool for the spring attachment. Many of the DR650 Owners group on Facebook have approaches for using a 1" square aluminum post as a makeshift tool to unscrew the inside of the fork assembly. That is where the spacer gets repositioned to achieve the lowering. The rear link is also just a repositioning operation.

I do a fair bit of work on my Harley, Kawasaki and Yamaha bikes and some gunsmithing (mostly AR15 builds from parts). Since most of that requires assembly with factory spec torque values, I acquired a set of the micrometer settable torque wrenches. I also keep a "breaker bar" around for loosening operations. Sockets, allen and Torx bits that work with the torque wrench are indispensable.

84 posted on 01/21/2022 10:37:12 PM PST by Myrddin
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To: Myrddin

Thanks. I need to get a digital torque wrench. I just dislike using the old clicker style and will often forgo using it and instead use the feel method. Already have a ton of sockets, torxs and allen bits.

Btw, I only need to lower this model about 1”, and want to do this with as little alteration/changes as possible.


85 posted on 01/21/2022 11:13:35 PM PST by dragnet2 (Diversion and evasion are tools of deceit)
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