We used to pass over the Santa Ana River on PCH, on the way to the Wedge.
The Wedge is a hot spot, for sure.
Not today, tho.
Way mellow today unless you go way south; 5-7 around San Diego.
I never bought a stick; just did body or Boogie Board. Loved the beaches. Hardly go, anymore; Nor Cal’s freezing, and I don’t have a suit.