Posted on 10/14/2020 1:10:18 PM PDT by Blueflag
I am looking for advice on getting an older Marlin 336 to strike the primer hard/deep enough to fire the round. ie fix a soft primer strike.
I have refinished a Marlin 336 RC, built 1964 per serial number, that I bought used at a gun show. I bought it knowing that it would not fire a round when the trigger was pulled and the firing pin would only dent (soft primer strike) the primer in the cartridge. I paid just over $100 for the firearm with the Nikon scope (worth more than $100) with the intent of refinishing the stock and grip, and getting the rifle back into working order.
I am comfortable working on/ disassembling/re-assembling lever action rifles, and know the 336 is easy to work on.
When I took the rifle apart, the two-part firing pin was badly worn where the (short) rear firing pin strikes the front firing pin. There was also a burr on the rear firing pin. The firing pin retaining spring appeared too flat to secure the rear pin well. These were all obvious issues.
I replaced the front and rear firing pins, Firing pin retaining spring, Extractor, both firing pin retaining pins, and hammer spring and hammer spring adjusting plate. Not the original breech bolt Not the original finger lever.
I soaked the breech bolt overnight in Hoppes and used an aluminum 'dental pic' to remove any stubborn carbon left behind inside the bolt.
I thought these updates would enable proper firing pin function and length AND also provide a more forceful strike from the hammer in case the old spring was weakened.
... and the symptoms did not change. I tried Hornaday, Federal and Winchester cartridges (30-30) with exactly the same result-- a dimpled primer.
FYI, I cannot see any damage to where the cartridge seats at the breach of the barrel.
I welcome your thoughts on what to try next?
New spring on the firing pin.
That’s the first thing to try.
Thanks, but already replaced.
thx
Thx.
Thx.
Thx. Agree.
You might want to join and send him a message to find out if he corrected the problem.
Good idea. Will inspect.
Rifle was a ‘family’ rifle, passed down to grand kid who traded it in when it stopped working. Could be.
Don’t have said gauge - would let a serious gunsmith do that. Thx.
Could be but Marlin may help you out for free.
click on the schematic for parts and pricing
OCCAM’s razor — dried gunk.
Even though I soaked it overnight, soak it again.
Let’s suppose granddad’s gun sat in a closet for 30 years, and junior tried to shoot it, it wouldn’t shoot, so he traded it.
I will do solvent AND ultrasonic. Twice ;-)
Thanks, bump for reference
Thanks, bump for reference
It’s actually simple, inexpensive, and easy- but the gauges from Midway or Brownells and just insert them in the chamber (you may have to remove the extractor first) and see if the bolt closes on the no go gauge (it shouldn’t).
Every gun guy should know how to do this for safety when you first buy a firearm. What caliber is your Marlin chambered for?
You’re welcome.
Best of Luck, I’m waiting on an ejector spring for my Marlin XT-22 Mag. Right now, it’s a single shot. Was shipped today, arriving on Monday.
I agree, it couldn’t hurt to call.
.30-30 no-go gauge is item# 184-100-301WB at Brownells for $33.
Double action trigger was 12 lbs.
Took it to a "gunsmith" and he boogered it up.
Sent it back to Taurus and they fixed atno charge and reinstated the factory warranty.
Had a North American mini revolver that I bought used and it broke.
I tried to fix it but they're like a Swiss watch and I couldn't get it back together.
Sent it back to NAA and they repaired, with new grip panels and reinstated the factory warranty at no charge.
Hey, the call is free. Sent
Disclaimer: Opinions posted on Free Republic are those of the individual posters and do not necessarily represent the opinion of Free Republic or its management. All materials posted herein are protected by copyright law and the exemption for fair use of copyrighted works.