Posted on 01/22/2020 5:27:02 PM PST by Attention Surplus Disorder
I'm about to have to abandon my 2000 Toyota Avalon v6 3.0 (all Avalons have this and only this engine) with 78K miles because I can't get rid of a diagnostic "Cat not ready" message. Everything else passes fine. Car runs fine, rather better after changing the sensors. If I can't pass CA smog, I can't register the car and thus can't legally drive it.
I have: changed both upstream 02 sensors. Changed downstream post-CAT) sensor. I have gone through the following reco'ed drive cycle.
1. Make Sure the Engine Light is Off 2. Check if your Vehicle has a Coolant Temperature The drive cycle starts with a cold start. 3. Let the Engine be Idle for 2 Minutes The next step is to start the engine and keep it idle for two and half minutes, keeping >>rear defroster and AC on.<< 4. Drive the vehicle at a Steady Speed of 55 MPH Now, switch the rear defroster and ac off and keep the speed of your vehicle at 90 km/hr (55MPH) nearly for 3 minutes. During this period, the purge and Fuel monitor diagnostics will take place. 5. Decelerate your Vehicle’s Speed at 20 MPH Make the speed of your vehicle fall gradually up to 32 km/hr (20 MPH). Avoid touching/shifting of clutch or brake. 6. Again Speed Up Drive your vehicle back to 55MPH (90 km/hr) at 3/4 throttle for nearly five minutes. The catalyst monitor diagnostics will take place during this period. If the battery is detached or the catalyst is not ready, it might take five complete driving cycles to decide the status of the catalyst. 7. Stop the Vehicle Now, make your vehicle slow down and allow it to sit idle for 2 minutes.
Have done all of this. I have researched the drive cycle (and there are about four different versions all over the 'net) and done most of them several times.
Really at the end of my frickin rope.
Anyone? Yeah, I know it's a 20 damn year old car.
The drive cycle that The Nuke posted is a good generic drive cycle, but it would be better to locate, download, and print out a readiness drive cycle specific to your 2004 Highlander and follow it TO THE LETTER.
Many drive cycles have some minor differences that, if missed, will cause it not to "ready" the computer. Before you start, there needs to be a specific amount of gas in the tank, usually between 1/2 and 3/4 tank.
The "secret" to getting a drive cycle to run and make everything "Ready" is that the engine's temperature needs to be between specific temperatures for a specific number of hours (typically between 40 to 95 degrees for 8 hours), or it will not run.
The high ambient temperatures that we have been experiencing in many parts of the country (especially in CA) can cause it to NEVER become ready.
I live in St John’s county (very red by the way) in Floriduh, and smog testing of cars is voluntary here.
Have not. I just joined the Toyota Ownerz cult so hopefully I can get the decoder ring and access to the lore!
A valid suggestion, but those connections are tight and clean, and I have inserted and taken out all the associated connectors at least a few times.
Have you actually failed a California Inspection because of the idiot light? I escaped 18 years ago, and they might have changed, but then they placed a sensor probe up the vehicle’s tailpipe. What it measures is what they went by. Perhaps you do not even have a problem.
Move out of CA to a state that doesn’t perpetuate that nonsnese.... problem solved.
Keep the car and move out of CA. Your vote is useless in CA. We need your vote in FL. In my country smog tests are not mandatory.
Figures.
They don’t have “repair waivers” in your state? In Ohio if you spend s couple hundred or so on emissions related repairs, you can take the receipts to a local EPA office and get a waiver.
I have a 17 year old Avalon. The rear hot gas sensor went out and makes the check engine light go on. Mechanic says ignore it. I’ll fix it one of these days.
Sell it outside of CA. With those few miles you will get a great price.
No, the sensors I changed successfully knocked out all fault lights (and scanned codes) but I failed the test because of “cat not ready”. It’s not a “code” with a number associated with it, it’s a “condition” Other than that, I have passed the smog test with all the other parameters. This is the last remaining snafu.
http://future.obdclearinghouse.com/documents/newdocuments/toyota/TSB_EG003-02_(revised).pdf
192000 miles. 13 years old. Already checked.
Thanks, though...
Disconnect the Negative (-) Battery Cable.
Touch the Negative (-) Battery Cable to the Positive (+) Battery Cable with it still connected to the Positive (+) Battery Post. (You might see a tiny spark, this is OK)
Reconnect the Negative (-) Battery Cable to the Negative (-) Battery Post.
Now do the Drive Relearn Procedure You have already been useing and see if that did the trick.
What happens when the Negative (-) Cable contacts the Positive (+) Post/Cable is Clearing the CPU Memory. There’s a Diode in the CPU that keeps the Program Memory, touching the Cables Clears that Memory by Discharging the CPU completely so it can “Learn” with a Clear Memory.
It’s different from doing a Reset/Clear Codes done with a Scanner. Scanner reset is like a CTRL+ALT+DEL vs a Power off reset on a Computer.
Give that a try and let Me/Us know what happens.
For a last ditch effort You might try waving Ye Old Rubber Chicken over the Vehicle 3 times in a North/South Orientation with the nose of the Vehicle facing towards Japan while the Sun is rising in the Eastern Time Zone of the USA.🐔
I *did* ignore it for a fair while. The possible issue is that if the engine runs (undetectably to you or me) funny for a long time, it can pollute your cat converter and cause the death of that expensive item.
In CA, you no pass smog, you no register car, period, end of subject. I’ve solved all the numerical code issues, this last remaining item is nevertheless a “must pass” deal.
“EVAP not ready”, you can fail and still reg your car. “CAT not ready” = Nope.
I just posted a link to your particular range of years.
OH?????
Yup, I have that and have done that.
Yeah, I had the end of the long exhaust assembly of my Toyota rust out and drop.
The rest of the assembly forward was in tip-top shape.
It was $1600 just for the part.
Ciphered on it for a while, then stuck a couple of exhaust coupler sleeves into the rusted-out place.
Seven bucks, problem solved.
And no, I don't have Exhaust Nazis in my state...
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