Posted on 04/01/2019 7:27:35 AM PDT by panzerkamphwageneinz
5.56 can shoot both, but an AR chambered for .223 should not be shooting 5.56...
Probably get flamed for that, but that is the main precaution I'd take.
Along with the fact that ANY AR-15 is better than none...
I am not worried about “concealed” carry—I have several 9mm’s.
I expect the future requirement is going to be for something that can be open carried but is lighter weight and less cumbersome than an assault rifle of which I also have several.
I am looking for a “pistol” that shoots 5.56mm; I have not resolved the 10” vs. 16” barrel issue; I am willing to spend more than bottom dollar to get better gear.
I think the objective is to be able to respond to a shooter threat where I need to be able to hit a target probably closer than 100 yards. I assume some kind of minimum optics would suffice.
I want a sufficient quality barrel that I can practice shooting with it for a while. Is the flash suppressor necessary for both the 10” and 16”?
Bingo! I was at a local gun shop recently, that has a gigantic bin full of plastic AR handguards out front (left over from AR owners swapping to free float forends). A young adult walked up while I was poking through the bin, and asked, "Why would anyone want those?"
The simple answer to his question: "They work fine, they're cheap, nearly indestructible, and easy to remove for cleaning." Not everyone needs a target rifle, or some tricked-out "video game" gun with 5 feet of rail and 5 pounds of gadgets attached. But that's what a lot of folks buy, because that's what the salesmen are pushing.
As always, the KISS Principle (Keep It Simple, Stupid!) is applicable. I would not recommend that anyone get an expensive, OR specialized, AR for their first purchase, unless they have a detailed plan in mind (a specific type of competition or hunting, for example). In many (most?) cases, a standard AR is probably capable of better accuracy than the person shooting it. Paying more for 'better than mil-spec' parts, or exotic aftermarket crap, can just be a waste of time and money.
Bottomline, you may not want to invest a lot in something that might end up spending the next 20 years in the back of the closet...
(Obviously, YMMV, FWIW, every gun owner has an opinion, etc., etc. ;^)
Its his first AR and not even his first build. I wouldn’t recommend someone doing a first build from a 80% lower. Let him enjoy the gun first. Then hook’em. :)
Not bad advice. Or Wylde chambered...
I have seen some with so many attachments I wonder if a hot dog bun warmer is included.
And don't tell the wife about the 60-gun safe you just bought because you're going to need it. They tend to get suspicious about that sort of thing...
The CAV-15 (from Cavalry Arms, and later from GWACS Armory) is a definite exception to the 'polymer ARs are junk' point of view. That's because the CAV-15 was designed as a polymer lower receiver assembly, and isn't just a plastic "clone" of an aluminum lower receiver. The integrated buffer tube, stock, and pistol grip actually make it stronger (and in some ways more reliable) than a standard aluminum lower. They're also lighter than comparable aluminum lower assemblies. Unfortunately, the molds have apparently worn out (after ~15 years of production), so no more CAV-15 MKIIs will be made. (My recommendation, for anyone wanting a reliable, light-weight AR15 - find a CAV-15 while you still can! ;^)
Ankle.
As a citizen of Connecticut.The home of Colts Patent Firearms I would refuse to purchase any firearm made in this state.Since the government of this state lost their minds and banned the sale of so called Assault rifles. I purchase nothing made here.
If you buy an AR get it in 5.56.
Take a look at Springfield Armory’s Saint 5.56 pistol!
I would totally concur on the GWACS, and in fact am considering getting one; it addresses many of the concerns with polymer lowers by not just duplicating an aluminum lower in poly. I recently watched the series that Ian and Karl of InRange just did on it, and am impressed.
I also am intrigued by the Kaiser Arms set, but have no personal experience. Among more conventionally styled polymer lowers, the Tennessee Arms receiver is well made, IMO, and I would not hesitate to suggest it where weight is a consideration, or for a rimfire build, but I would also advise anyone considering it that it shares the inherent weaknesses of poly receivers that emulate aluminum ones.
That said, ATI does not match the standards of any of these. Their products are like low quality injection molded toys with pot metal parts cast inside.
A couple of things to consider: 5.56/.223 muzzle velocity declines more significantly in a shorter barrel than other rounds, and tuning the AR gas system also gets a little more complicated the shorter you go, so I would use the longest barrel that fits with how you intend to use it. An 11.5 versus a 10” barrel may not sound like a big increase, but it will make a significant difference in performance. Check out www.ballisticsbytheinch.com, and I’d also check out youtube reviews on different barrel length and gas system length configurations.
I am pretty certain once you see the fireball that comes out of a shorter barrel, you will want a flash hider on it. A muzzle brake that directs gas to the side from a short barrel will make you the least popular guy on the range, so if you don’t use a flash hider, I’d consider a brake with a removable shroud, or one that directs the gas forward all the time.
Went the other way, other than a pencil barrel, went light as i could with non-exotic part, 6.5 lbs with a stainless 16” barrel. EOTech adds a touch to that..
What is a scope doing on a supposed tactical rifle?
Build a .308 for long range stuff. Already had that. 8.5 lbs sans scope, lighter than my old M-14.
You got to decide, am I going to be lugging this thing or setting up in place?
“I am looking for a “pistol” that shoots 5.56mm; I have not resolved the 10” vs. 16” barrel issue...”
My son is building a “pistol” but in a different caliber - .300 blackout. Looking online I see that it is considered by many to be a better round for the short barrels.
I've been using CAV-15 lowers since about 2003; it's amazing how much dead weight you can lose, without compromising reliability or busting the budget, simply by going with a GWACS/Cav Arms lower, and carefully selecting other reasonably priced, "off the shelf" components. I recently assembled a CAV-15 carbine that came in at 4.75 pounds (5.25 lbs with red dot sight, empty 20-rd mag, & sling). Holding something like that in your hands, you realize why our fathers & grandfathers loved the M1 carbine!
;^)
Panzer: I'd like some bacon and eggs with hash browns and toast, please.
Sgt Hooper: How 'bout a taco plate instead? They're really yummy.
That’s one hell of a bore!
Compare it to a Daniel Defense.
I built my own Frankengun but used. DD barrel which does not have the M-4 contour (slightly heavier) & has a mid length gas tube.
LOL! If the Israeli’s like/build it, it’s got to be good! I love mine!
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