Posted on 06/23/2018 11:27:20 AM PDT by Catmom
Apparently this is standard price for the install, sales taxes, labor, disposal fee, "code upgrades," etc. My next door neighbor paid the same amount last year.
Sucks to be a homeowner w/o construction skills in a blue state.
I half think people in the trades push for code upgrades to make everything cost more. And they seemed shocked that I would question their prices. Got a 10% discount FWIW.
Electrician bill for new wiring? Most instant water heater draw more than electric furnace for whole house.
I've sweat plenty of copper pipe fittings -- wet fittings, too. I don't use Shark Bite fittings to splice lengths of pipe but when it comes to replacing supply valves, they can't be beat.
Or just turn it off if you’re leaving for an extended period
Have the Mythbusters do the install.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=68p4ngS-yME
Summit was the country in 1954. Today I wouldn’t go to Plainfield even if I had the 82nd. Airborne as a body guard.
My crazy Leftist town here in the NE made me get a building permit for a new HW heater. Cost $175. The second Civil War is coming.
OMG! We just get one at Lowe’s for $500 and Mr. GG2 installs it and the old one goes to the curb for the pickers. For $2400 we can get a whole new AC installed.
That’s some California type BS.
Depends what you had put in. We got a tank-less lg 1. So the cost was more, was it necessary, yes, ours was small 40 gal tank. Now we have endless hot water, and electric bill went down. We had Lowe’s do it, got it put in the contract we could pay with Gift Cards we bought at Kroger’s for the gas points, for 17 months we had $1.00 off gas per gallon per 35 gallons. Won either way, especially with the 10% Military discount added in. Little of $3k.
not real sure on the joint thing, just something i read
my water runs about 12gal per minute so prolly ~2gal to get hotwater to the kitchen but, i have never in the 18 years i’ve been here hit the limit on tier one water usage rate bumping me to tier two
and with tankless, i’d need some kind of holding tank for re-circulation and the unit would run constantly so that’s out
a friend uses baseboard heat and runs his hotwater in the winter time from it and a tank in the summer
Yes you save over the constant on off and pilot, the question that people just need to keep in mind is the savings worth the extra price? It’s like solar cells, no one really talks about cost to return, they just hype the immediate savings number. And I know back in the day when Tankless was just getting popular and I trained with Takagi a good part of the profits they talked about on a system installation was the long term servicing of the units with descaling and repalecement of heat exchangers which at least then were fairly thin copper.
my old one was 40amp, the new one is 60amp but it’s only on when it’s needed, they paid for themselves in the first six months or so
i don’t have gas so the electric usage was substantial
The kicker was my house was about 4 years old at the time.
Even if you paid my round trip air fare, while i donated my time to you as a friend, we still could have gotten you a new water heater installed for less than 1/2 of what you spent.
That and the fact that most homes built before or w/o THWH do not have circuitry under the sink.....
THWH to replace my standard electric 40 gal. At the faucet in the kitchen it produced 104 F water. At the upstairs MB tub- only 89F. Last one whole day and my wife looked at me a said “ I can take a bath, after you carry 20 gals of boiled water from the kitchen stove top, get started smarty pants”? I returned it the next morning and installed a standard 50 gal version.
I did install a THWH in our motor home to supplement the gas/electric main 6 gal HW heater- when running off of shore power it produces great HW- and since I am paying a flat fee for shore power.... I can also run it off the generator and it only draws 3Kw, so AC works fine too.
Bookmark this thread.
Anyone remember how to create a link to it?
Wonderful advice from Freepers across the USA.
What I learned: some states, such as FLorida, have laws against doing repairs yourself and will send small, little pencil pushers to fine the profits off your rental unit’s income.
We should start a list of states and their insane regulations.
I was able to find someone who did it without my having local permit of $70 but the plumber still did everything to code. I live dangerously though as it has a drain pain but no drain to outside and it sits in utility room next to kitchen along with washer and dryer. Condo would have to allow install of line...only pressure relief line goes outside. It is at least on ground floor in my two story condo. It amazes me where heaters are installed in some condos and even houses...some in attics, and many where they don't think you ever need room to do maintenance.
I have a water leak alarm in the pan, and another alarm outside the pan that monitors this along with any leak from washing machine. I also have these alarms (around $12 at Home Depot) near any water source. Another device in house (brand name Leeo) listens for specific alarms and calls me if it detects CO, Smoke, or Water leak alarm (this specific type). Maybe I should just preemptively replace the heater at some point in future, though following the anode rod inspect/replace and water draining preventative maintenance should keep it in better shape.
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