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To: MileHi

I did not read all 73 replies- but, stick with the published recipe- primer bullet powder can ccase. each company published their loads based on testing through a pressure gun so what they say is what they experienced.
If there is one area where I may switch components, it would be brass, but always start at the low end and work up- we cannot even estimate pressure, other than when it gets obviously high, like ruptured cases and blown primers (or a blown gun...).
Never exceed published loads and use the components named int eh guide. And, since it is a 38spl and a classic revolver, stick to loads for accuracy over velocity- it is a 38 spl.
I don’t recall seeing what the purpose of the load is, but usually 125 JHPs bespeak of defense loads- my recommendation is bump up to a modern CC platform and use commercial ammo.


75 posted on 03/07/2018 4:31:07 AM PST by Manly Warrior (US ARMY (Ret), "No Free Lunches for the Dogs of War")
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To: Manly Warrior
And, since it is a 38spl and a classic revolver, stick to loads for accuracy over velocity- it is a 38 spl.

That's the idea. Don't want +P pressures.

82 posted on 03/07/2018 6:33:36 AM PST by MileHi (Liberalism is an ideology of parasites, hypocrites, grievance mongers, victims, and control freaks.)
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To: Manly Warrior
Agreed. If someone with a 38 special revolver wants maximum power for self defense, they're better advised to buy a 357 magnum for a broader power range.

I load my 357s right at +P velocities. Easier on the gun and the gunner. Most of my 357s are classics and don't get shot much anyway.

I do have a Ruger GP100 stainless that's built like a tank and ......

85 posted on 03/07/2018 7:01:36 AM PST by LouAvul (The most High ruleth in the kingdom of men, and giveth it to whomsoever he will.)
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