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Posted on 12/01/2017 10:58:01 AM PST by BipolarBob
Just like
Al Capones safe!
This is to cool.
Yeah, that's me. Soaking up the cool factor whilst farting in the general direction of Liberty Safe Co.
The ones in the Santa Rosa area and the Tubbs fire were incredibly hot.
The ones in the Santa Rosa area and the Tubbs fire were incredibly hot.
Just here to say, that an open Liberty safe was thrown away to the side of the street here (following Hurricane Irma). A neighbor was trying to load it on a strong dolly, but couldn't move it. It was to replace his lesser safe.
Probably thrown out for insurance-money, and why I won't support insurance companies to insure my house. Why should my premiums help pay for such wastrel?
This Ping List is for all things pertaining to the 2nd Amendment.
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Liberty has a very good warranty. Have you called them?
Ours is a Remington 532CX model. Had it since 2004. No issues at all. It’s a combination type with a key for the dial. It has 5 one inch diameter hardened steel pins.
It’s rated for 30 minutes at 1,200 degrees.
It has holes in the bottom to anchor it to the floor, which we did. I used 1 inch diameter hardened B-7 rod with two part epoxy anchors. The only way anyone is stealing it is with a crane. And they’ll have to take half the living room to do it.
It’s worked very well. Although, the interior seems to have gotten smaller over the years. Don’t quite know how that happens.
Good luck,
L
Yes. Their very bad warranty does me no good. It's for only 5 years. After that . . . Electronic only floor safes should be illegal to sell. Look around the internet and you'll find a video of a group breaking into Liberty safes that the company could not open themselves.
Mine is electronic with key backup. Never had a failure yet.
“Yet” being the key word.
LOL
sorry for your trouble
I’m sure they’ve made many improvements in these locks over the years, but I still would not trust them for a high security safe.
This is all I can find for a do it yourself fix.
The locking mechanism of a safe can, under certain conditions, place pressure on the side of the lock’s bolt. This is often caused by something inside the safe pressing against the door or by something caught between the safe door and its frame. When this occurs, the lock will not operate properly. To relieve side pressure on the lock bolt, move the safe’s handle to the fully locked position, (for direct-drive locks make sure the keypad is turned counterclockwise to stop), then re- enter a working code. The lock should open.
I have had that happen once before. But that is not the problem I have now. I have an electronic safe. Electronic only. The electronics are dead as in D-E-A-D. It is internal and the manufacturer says drill it or rip it. They have the blueprints. They know their safes and from the videos they know their failure rate.
Bookmarking
I sure Hope you that Damn Safe
Open by now!
Perhaps a Video on YouTube to show Your
Predicament may help!
The safe is open. I’m going to have to reconfigure the innards to access everything from the side. This will entail removing internal walls. I’ll have a sheet metal place make me a new side door. The contents was ammo and it’s a bulky heavy not-so-high value object and not so attractive to the smash and grab artists. I want it enclosed and some humidity protection. I keep a gallon of desiccant in there and that’s what I was doing this time. I was removing the desiccant to heat it up to rejuvenate it.
Good to hear!
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