I have considered heating the caliper body in the location of the threaded portion of each bolt, but, I figure that will destroy the Neoprene(?) boots that protect part of the upper shaft of the bolt.
Any ideas?
Here’s the link to my earlier thread concerning frozen machine screws:
http://www.freerepublic.com/focus/f-chat/3534175/posts
Over 200 replies, and tons of gearhead knowledge.
To help a socket stay on a bolt head modify a 6 point socket by grinding it shorter which which will remove the chamfer and increase the grip.
Use the socket to break the head off. Once you get the caliper off the car (disconnected from the brake line and everything), you will have a 1/4” tall stud to beat on, put in a vise, whatever it takes.
Try heating with a hair dryer. For some reason they get really sticky.
I’m not a Ford guy but on GMs you can take the whole works (caliper and bracket) off, two bolts. Then put in a vise and work on the pins. I have heard some of the Ford caliper pins/bolts tend to corrode a lot; might be a good idea to pick up couple of new ones and boots (might come as kit) before you rip into it.
Lefty Loosey, Righty Tighty?
If the heads are rusty and the 13mm wrench fits loose try a 1/2 inch wrench or socket hammer it on then hit the wrench or rachet with a hammer.
Kroil products are meant for this.
Heat causes metal to expand, cold causes metal to contract. Maybe try cooling it with some canned refrigerant or something to loosen them up?
Breaker bar and a length of pipe Also make sure you had your Wheaties but not the ones with Bruce Jenner on the box
I did the front brakes on my Ram during Christmas. I had to use quite a bit of muscle to break them loose. Too bad that your bolt heads are shallow. That really exacerbates the problem.
aren’t some of these bolts REVERSE THREADED?
I'm assuming this a nut and bolt situation. If the above fails, get a nut splitter. You should replace all the hardware - springs, clips, bolts, boots, etc.- any time you dismantle a critical component, so don't worry about effecting heat treatment because your tossing them anyway.
If they are hex head bolts don’t use 12 point sockets or those terrible spline drive sockets. I have a set of original metrinch sockets you can still find on ebay that are fantastic for tough bolts. Kobalt (lowes brand) also carries a cam drive socket, or use to, that would work too. At the minimum use a six point socket. If the bolt sheers off with those you were screwed anyway.
The best penetrating oil is a home made mix of 50/50 acetone and transmission fluid. I have a small spray bottle for this, I only mix up a little at a time, when I need it because the acetone will evaporate out.
I cant find it now, but saw a study done years ago where they spayed a bunch of nuts and bolts down with salt water for awhile to get the corrosion going real good, then tested a bunch of different things like wd40, pb blaster etc. and recorded the torque required to break each loose after the soaking process...
The acetone/transmission fluid mix won hands down.
forget the whiskey, try beer muscles.
Leverage.
If it’s the caliper pins, they’re frozen in there. You’re probably better off replacing the calipers.