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Thanks in advance.
The very best penetrating oil is a 50-50 mixture of acetone and Automatic Transmission Fluid.
Try that first. It beats WD-40 by a mile.
If that fails, the next thing to try is heat. Heat the machine screws almost to red heat. Then touch a candle to the head and let the wax melt. The molten wax will be drawn into the threads by capillary action and will lubricate them.
You do not need the tat-tat-tat of an impact wrench to break loose a stuck bolt. You need one very stout impact. After the wax trick, put a cheater on your Allen wrench, and take all the slack and spring out of the system with one hand. Hold it in that position and hit it HARD with a heavy hammer. This can work miracles.
If push comes to shove and you have to drill it out, go to a very good tool store and get a left hand drill of the correct size. Frequently just drilling it out with a left hand bit will loosen the bolt. Of course you have to run the drill in reverse with the left hand bit.
Kano Labs Kroil is one of the best penetrating lubes on the market
LPS is pretty good too
I’ve had good luck with whiskey. Uh, on the stuck screws! I have taken many screws and bolts loose with whiskey soaking for a few minutes. I’ve used it many times on squirrel cages for HVAC fans over 20 years old. It will lossen the lock screw and then loosen the fan from the shaft.
Ammonia.
Many times they are stuck due to galvanic corrosion.
Ammonia will break the chemical bonds and all the screws to be loosened - at least sometimes it will
Bkmk
https://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA/
beat it with a hammer and if that doesn’t work, try swearing at it.
A few drops of Pelosi ought to do it. It’s proven to loosen screws.
Use a soldering iron/gun to apply local heat cycling along with favorite penetrating oil. The hand held, hammer driven impact screw driver allow best control for not missing up the head as quickly.
Use a soldering iron/gun to apply local heat cycling along with favorite penetrating oil. The hand held, hammer driven impact screw driver allows best control for not messing up the head as quickly. Start with light blows.
Man up nancy
WD40 is worthless.
Automatic transmission fluid and acetone?
Lots of good suggestions here. Soak the heads three times a day with a good product for three days and then use the impact tool. I prefer this:
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Knocker-Penetrating-Solvent-Aerosol/dp/B000LEVE00
I don’t know why the designer would have specified self-tapping screws but that’s all I can think of as a possible cause.
I've used numerous on jobsites over the last 30+ years. Kroil is the best I've found.
PB Blaster is pretty good also.
Secondly, you have 2 very dissimilar metals. Steel and aluminum. They have different expansion rates. Maybe bring a little heat to bear. As they cool, break them loose.
Aerokroil isn’t widely as available on the shelf as others. I’ve seen it a few places. Try an industrial supply, box store, or large hardware outfit. Some Walmarts even carry it.
PB Blaster is available in most stores.
I haven’t used WD-40 in decades after I found this;
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=21099766.
Slick 50 One Lube has never failed to break anything loose for me yet. Not as quick as Aerokroil, but it’s only one third the price.
A little off topic, but perhaps of interest...
A friend recently introduced me to a rust removal product (Evapo-rust) that he swore by. I tried it, and it seems to work well, better than that Naval Jelly or other phosphoric acid-based products.
Has anybody tried this stuff?
Might try some penetrating oil and adding some heat - let it heat up/expand and add some oil when cool and hot for a cycle or two.
If you have to drill them, I would suggest a similar approach because you need to keep the bit small enough to not get to the threads and releasing some of the interior 'pressure" may allow for better expansion/contraction to free them up enough for extraction.
Good luck.
PB B’laster. About $3-4 at any wal mart. It’s the best stuff I’ve ever seen for what you’re talking about. Look around on the same rack as WD-40. It’s the same stuff, but PB doesn’t evaporate and its WAY more penetrative than obsolete WD-40. I can freep mail details if you like. I have a can right here but FR is weird about pictures