Probably the closest to death I ever came was after going over the falls there on about a 12' wave in the early eighties. I remember coughing up water on the beach and the lacerations from the reef that took a long time to heal.
Wow and major Ouch! Yes, you're lucky to be alive. You either had the big ones or just damn foolish. That reef is a meat-grinder. It kills, what, 2-3 people a season, not to mention what you experienced? Sheesh, I thought my ticket was punched when I went head-long into the 3 foot of sand at the body-surfing Wedge in SoCal on a 12ft day.
No major damage, but the Lifeguard had pull me out of the shore break because of the steep shelf that suck you back in to the breakers. Couldn't get my breath from being punched so hard. That was the end of the Wedge for me.