Wow and major Ouch! Yes, you're lucky to be alive. You either had the big ones or just damn foolish. That reef is a meat-grinder. It kills, what, 2-3 people a season, not to mention what you experienced? Sheesh, I thought my ticket was punched when I went head-long into the 3 foot of sand at the body-surfing Wedge in SoCal on a 12ft day.
No major damage, but the Lifeguard had pull me out of the shore break because of the steep shelf that suck you back in to the breakers. Couldn't get my breath from being punched so hard. That was the end of the Wedge for me.
I was 19. That age when you foolishly think you are invincible. The locals just laughed at the stupid haole.
The wedge is insane. Never been there but the YouTube videos are always entertaining. Shore break can be dangerous at almost any size. Almost snapped my neck body boarding 3 foot shore break in Southern Delaware one winter years ago, and not a soul around for miles. A sickening yellow bruise from my neck and shoulder down to my chest. I stay away from shore break since then.