Posted on 06/07/2015 9:26:39 PM PDT by djf
No problems with the frames. One the first, the rear bearings wore out. On the second, the front brake failed. One the third, the seat post bent. In each instance, the warranty place sent me a full refund and I got to keep the bike. Not bad.
I’ll ad Trek Bicycles to the long list of Leftist companies that I try to avoid.
I’ve never caught on to adjusting gears and breaks well on bikes. I should have taken classes in it long ago.
As a few posters have mentioned, some sort of flat proofing is a great idea. In my area there is a low growing vining plant called referred to as Goat Heads or Puncture Vine. It tends to be incredibly invasive. Anybody who lives in an area where it grows is very familiar with it because they’ll have had many flats on any small inflatable wheels they own. As others have suggested, you could buy specially made liners to try and cut down on flats, but after having repaired dozens and dozens of flats due to Goat Heads I’ve come up with a standard procedure I use for ALL my small inflatable tires. Rather than buying a liner, I use an old innertube made for the size wheel I am working on. Using a pair of scissors, I cut the inner two thirds of the old innertube away, so I am left with a piece that fits around the outer circumference of the new tube. After installing the liner and new tube, I use a product called “Slime”, adding the recommended amount into the new tube. With the combination of the home made liner and the green slime, rarely do I ever get another flat on that wheel. At worst, it may develop a very slow leak requiring a bit of added air every few months. The website for the green slime is www.slime.com BTW, I’ve found that my homemade liners actually tend to work better than the expensive Kevlar ones for some reason.
Great explanation and tip. My repair was using a rubber layer similar to what you suggest, though professionally installed.
These spurs are all over and for my Golden Retriever, particularly uncomfortable ingested.
When you say rural, is it wide-open, wide-road rural, with lots of visibility for you and the occasional vehicle, or is it hilly, curvy, wooded, narrow-laned, no-shouldered?
If the later, please be careful.
One piece of advice I have which was gained after years of experience and it basically is this
. never repair spokes in a wheel unless it is an emergency somewhere and you dont have access to a new wheel. Spokes fail because of fatigue and once the first one goes, it is a sign that the next ones are soon to fail also. The best thing to do when the first one fails is always just replace the wheel and throw the old one out. Essentially, when the first one fails it is at the leading edge of the bell curve
.. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Normal_distribution
I live in S Ut so it depends...hills & mountains.
Here in flat Florida I have to go 30 miles to find a little hill
Well I adjusted the front derailleurs today. Between two sprockets, it wouldn’t go into the high one, so I had to tighten it up. That part was easy.
The hard part was adjusting the front brake so the cable would go through a fitting that was designed for it, took a while.
Took it for a quick 3 miler up to the lake.
Finally found my old Schwinn receipt. For a V43, back in 85, it cost 600 bucks. But that bike was seriously tripped out - quick release on the brakes, quick release on the wheels, you name it!
But it was LIGHT compared to this bike.
And since I have now over 100 invested in this bike, I’m thinking about backing off and buying a GOOD touring bike... time will tell...
Update:
I bought another bike. It’s a Nishiki hybrid, made around 1993 or so.
Aluminum frame. Quick release wheels, quick release brakes, rotary speed shifters on the front handlebars. 10 bucks!
But it needed work - so I took it to the bike shop.
They looked at it and said they couldn’t fix it.
So I bought the parts and fixed it myself, which at my age is getting a bit more difficult, I don’t have as much hand-eye coordination as I used to.
But it is up to par now!
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