Also see analysis at
http://members.wolfram.com/nickl/QualityIndexRating.html
I’ve actually never had a problem with my “older Suzuki”. Still has original muffler/cat and valve cover never off except for timing belt change.
All vehicles I would avoid anyway. Still interesting. Friend of mine said stay away from Mazda because of oil leaks.
I will add one of my own, 2008 Chevy Aveo, just because for a small car it got crappy MPG ( and I drive 60 ). Underpowered, accelerates like a pig on stilts. Only good point, it had the best factory radio of any car I’ve had.
We’ve had good luck with Cadillac DTS. We buy them when they are coming off lease at 3 years, and we drive them forever. We buy the most luxiurious model available (heated and cooled seates, back up sensors, etc.)
I’ve had some problems with my used Aviator but overall it is a solid vehicle.
I call BS. I would expect GM to claim at a minimum seven of the bottom ten spots.
(later)
Id rather put 15k into this car and make it "new" rather than spend 25K on a new car.
I don’t imagine they’re around anymore, but the Mazda RX7 should certainly qualify - that rotary was a total POS!
http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2012/12/monday-mileage-champion-the-year-in-review/
...Well, approximately two-thirds of the vehicles that reach the 300k+ mark at an auction I attend will usually belong in one of four categories.
Ford truck or SUV. Chevy truck or SUV. Honda car. Toyota everything.
There you have it. Nearly two thirds of the vehicles that I see with serious high mileage credentials will belong in one of those four categories...
All ten of those cars are crap to begin with - I just picked up a 2000 Buick Park Avenue Ultra with 67K original miles and nary a scratch on it for 6 grand. Original sticker price 38K, it has the excellent V6 with a factory supercharger. Gets 25mpg on a cruise with a ton of passing power.
Thanks for posting.
What?
No Pintos or Gremlins?
I love my ‘06 Scion Xa. Only gripe is that the paint is fragile and gets chipped off easily. Add that to the NYC drivers who believe they have to tap the cars fore and aft while parallel parking, and you have chipped bumpers.
This is fishy ... 8 out of 10 are Ford Motor Company associated cars (Mazda/Land Rover/Lincoln/Jaguar). Probably written by a GM Union acolyte.
My car is a 1999 Toyota Solara with 620K miles on it. I put all but 50 miles on it. Yes, I have had some work done on it, but it runs well, has good gas mileage and is very dependable. Having a transmission put in next month, but the cost of maintenance and upkeep is still cheaper than purchasing a new car. Regardless of a car being new, I would still have to cough up for the monthly payments AND the regularly scheduled maintenance. I will drive this one until the wheels fall off. No matter what car/truck/SUV one drives, remember: maintenance, maintenance, maintenance. Fix the small, inexpensive stuff before it becomes big, expensive stuff.
I shop for cars a lot as I drive $2000 vehicles and need a new one about every three years. Worst reviews I ever read was for the ford contour.
Anyone who buys a used european car is just asking to suffer.
Buying a brand new car is usually cheaper in the long run. Finance it for 60 months and all you really need to deal with maintenance-wise is oil changes and maybe a couple tune-ups and set of tires. Then you get another brand new car.
With used cars, you are always dealing with repairs that are over $1,000 so you don't really save any money over buying new.
The American made Audi is one of the worst and fix up cost even brand new are really expensive. Stay away.