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Vanity......I now need a good chainsaw blade sharpener after Sandy.
me | today | me

Posted on 11/20/2012 11:59:15 PM PST by onona

Can anyone recommend a good chainsaw blade sharpener ? Thank you.


TOPICS: Chit/Chat
KEYWORDS: chainsaw
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To: onona

You can get a good trianglular shaped file and do it yourself in minutes

I used to take them off and take them in to get sharpened, yes they do a better job but not much, and there is a lot to be said about being back up and running in minutes as opposed to days

I did keep several chains handy that I did take in to be sharpened, but I found after a while it was easier to get out the file and touch them up a bit right then and there while I was using it- dont even remove the chain from the saw

5 minutes and - go

There is also home sharpener tools you can buy- it is cheaper after use it 5 times its paid for iteself


41 posted on 11/21/2012 6:59:26 AM PST by Mr. K (some days even my lucky rocketship underpants don't help...)
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To: oldenuff2no

that is a great tip for when the zombie apocolypse comes- have extra chain and files ready to make and sharpen your own

(also some stored gas, i guess)

Anyone know how to make an alcohol that will burn in a gas engine?


42 posted on 11/21/2012 7:08:05 AM PST by Mr. K (some days even my lucky rocketship underpants don't help...)
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To: oldenuff2no

Exactly.
You will totally screw up a good chain if you use the wrong size/wrong angle file. Even to the point where it’s junk and can’t be sharpened.

I had to get a new chain for my Mcullouch earlier this year and I spent an extra ten bucks to get the right sized/angled file.

Even though the correct file is the SAME diameter as the one I was previously using, the difference is like night and day, this one goes through and don’t even sweat doing it.


43 posted on 11/21/2012 7:09:47 AM PST by djf (Conservative ideals help the poor. Liberal practice help them STAY poor!!!)
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To: exit82
If in doubt about which file to use on your particular chain, consult the guy who sold the chainsaw. 1/4 “ or 3/8 “ files for different size chain teeth...
44 posted on 11/21/2012 9:14:23 AM PST by Eric in the Ozarks (In the game of life, there are no betting limits)
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To: panaxanax
thats right buttercup, its three miles back to the truck to go get yout electric sharpener. if it takes you an hour to sharpen by hand then you better get going, a man can walk three miles an hour. Sharpening a short bar only takes me about 5 minutes, sitting in the dirt with it clamped between my legs, 20 minutes if its real bad.

I have seen that alot where a lumberjack spends an hour fiddling with the file and it still aint sharp or cuts in a circle

Watch out for the rattlesnakes, bears and widowmakers along the way

What I meant was a pro should know how to sharpen by hand, maybe they have battery powered sharpeners now that you can pack along. I know chain and bar sets sure are cheep now, compared to back when I was a pup doing forest work. So grind away and maybe the boss wont care about gobbling up chain, or if it takes some worker an hour maybe its cheaper to just let them grind.

I luv this thread , reminds me of the ones on the chainsaw forums LOL , (like an oil thread on a car forum)

45 posted on 11/21/2012 3:18:00 PM PST by KTM rider
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To: Mr. K

Do not burn alcohol or alcohol mixed gas, ethanol, in a chainsaw. You will have a very expensive lesson. Even with a heavier oil mix it will not work out well in the long run.


46 posted on 11/21/2012 5:39:50 PM PST by oldenuff2no
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To: KTM rider; oldenuff2no

KTM,
It’s obvious you don’t know jack-$hit about being on a REAL logging job.

“Sharpening a short bar only takes me about 5 minutes..”

I’m talking about REAL logging where we used 48”-60” bars on gutted & tricked-out Stihl 075’s, 090’s or a ‘carted old Mac’. Skip-tooth .404 or 1/2” chain. You probably don’t even know what I’m talking about, do you?

Every real faller I have ever worked with knew how to hand file a chain as good or better than by grinding. Plus, we always took at least 4 extras in with us, depending on how rocky the ground was or what type of timber we were cutting. Old growth Doug Fir can be damn near as hard as Oak while Sugar Pine cuts like butter. No need to hand file at the stump, just switch chains and get back to work. Grind ‘em when you get back to camp.

“battery powered sharpeners” are for homeowners.

“buttercup”?......LOL

Perhaps you’ll be more comfortable back on the so-called logging forums where you might actually impress some little girls into thinking you’re for real.

Oldenuff2no is a pro. Heed his advice, little pup.


47 posted on 11/21/2012 8:30:14 PM PST by panaxanax
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To: woodbutcher1963
That sharpening jig you are showing is also sold at Lowes, NAPA and even Sears.
Best thing since sliced bread.
It, proper size file for your particular chain and proper depth set gauge are all you need.
Takes about 15 minutes on my 28" Homelite Super XL (Last good chainsaw Homelite made).
Own 4 chain saws, 28", 18", 12" and a 10" pole saw, works great on all.
When you start seeing sawdust instead of chunks of wood flying, time to sharpen.
Been using chain saws since I was 13 and now 66 years old.
48 posted on 11/21/2012 9:22:09 PM PST by The Cajun (Sarah Palin, Mark Levin......Nuff said.)
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To: panaxanax
LOL you gotta be one of those guys from the Axe Men TV show

LOL ! LOL! LOL !

so sorry I hurt your feelings, OK you are the big bad logger, LOL !

you win ! grind away fruitcake

49 posted on 11/21/2012 11:54:36 PM PST by KTM rider
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To: panaxanax
What is the best mix oil ?

I use Motul600 50:1

50 posted on 11/21/2012 11:59:51 PM PST by KTM rider
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To: The Cajun

I actually bought my jig from Baileys Logging Supply. I could not find it on their website when I did a search.
Baileys is where I buy most of my tree cutting supplies.
I have had a Stihl 026 for twenty years. I have replaced the bar twice, air filter once. I think my automatic oiler may need to be replaced. It seems to get plugged up easy now.


51 posted on 11/26/2012 7:54:06 AM PST by woodbutcher1963
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To: woodbutcher1963
Have recommended that sharpening jig to several friends, what I like about it is the consistency you get from it.
You can't get that from free hand sharpening, too many angles to keep perfect.

Never had automatic oiler trouble yet.
Think that is driven off of pulsating crankcase vacuum with a diaphragm in the old Homelites I own.
I always give the engine a little spin up before I start another cut just to make sure I see oil spitting from the bar tip.
What I like about the old Super XL is that it also has a thumb activated manual oiler, good for kicking in extra oil when cutting sappy stuff like pine.

52 posted on 11/26/2012 12:25:48 PM PST by The Cajun (Sarah Palin, Mark Levin......Nuff said.)
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To: The Cajun

I remember my dad had a Remington chainsaw from the 50’s that had a manual oiler like that. The saw weighed a ton.
I always thought the motor would have been great for a go cart.

My dad replaced it with a Stihl farm boss in the 1980’s. My older brother still owns that saw. It also was heavier than I like for the majority of the trees I cut down(typically 20” dbh or less).

Bailey’s had the little ECHO arborist limbing saws on sale in their last flyer. These are the saws that only weigh about 9#s. They have the ring on them to attach a rope and pull up into a tree AFTER you climb it.
Now if I need to cut a limb, I use my recipricating saw or my pole saw or hand saw.


53 posted on 11/27/2012 6:48:30 AM PST by woodbutcher1963
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