Vanity......I now need a good chainsaw blade sharpener after Sandy.

me | today | me

[onona]

Can anyone recommend a good chainsaw blade sharpener ? Thank you.

[Errant]

Most of my cutting now is cutting up hardwood firewood, downed trees, trimming and so forth. Lots of deadwood, dirt and ground strikes. I may give carbide a try and see how well it holds up under those circumstances.

Thanks,

[Tula Git]

I use a dremel on my hedge trimmer. Never tried it on the chain saw. I just get a new blade...and yes, gloves are essential.

[urbanpovertylawcenter]

placed an oregon chain on my Husky, cuts like in butter, watch out for your limbs though!

[wrench]

I am not a proessional tree guy like some here, but have used both a file and one of the expensive grinder type sharpeners on my chains. The power sharpeners will put a new edge on the cutters, and will correct a mis-sharpened chain that wanders as it cuts, but they do significantly shorten chain life.

A proper size round file and a flat file for the rakers is all I use now. Chains cut well and last a long time. Cutting downed trees quickly dulls the chains from dirt that gets caked on the bark, not to mention any ground contact with the chain.

[lowbridge]

I’m a city boy. Where I come from, the only thing we can use a chainsaw for is if you’re making a low budget horror movie or attending a family reunion with relatives you hate.

[panaxanax]

“..filing by hand is the pros way to do it”

Real pros use a grinder. Preferably the Silvey. Not cheap, but made in the USA.

I can tell you firsthand that after a day of cutting on steep ground, running from yellow-jackets, dodging rattlers & widow-makers and driving 2 foot wedges the last thing a ‘real pro’ is going to do is spend 2-3 hours hand filing a 48” chain.

Believe me, I know these things.

[Portcall24]

I’ll bet you use a skip tooth or chipper chain too. They’re more dangerous but have a far superior performance than the ones that come with the Big Box sold saws. There’s something really special when you’re bucking a nice size tree and the chips are flying 5-6 feet behind you. Almost as good as sex! Best saw I ever owned was a Stihl O38. Torque was unbelievable. I started working with my dad in Southern Oregon in evenings and weekends cutting wood for sale when I was about 8. Still have my timesheets where he paid me ten cents an hour.

[riverrunner]

onona

You are spot on I use to hand file all the time after about 40 years of useing a saw. I now do like you do after every 4 or 5 sharpings I take them to the shop for 5 bucks each I have them sharpen them.

I keep 4 chains on hand they are normmaly good to cut around 20 plus pickup loads. Before they go back to the shop.

Its not a good feeling when you rock a chain about an hour after you get it back from the shop.

One can cut a lot of wood if the only thing you cut is wood but dang the rocks and ground just seems to jump up and hit the chain.

[panaxanax]

I also tried the carbide chain. Very dangerous when the tips kept flying off, plus almost impossible to sharpen with a regular file. Tossed ‘em over the bank.

The absolute worst spool of chain I ever bought was made by Carlton. The teeth were way too soft and wouldn’t hold an edge. Oregon is still the best, IMO.

I, too, got a few laughs this morning from some of the advice given here. Seems of late that everyone is an expert about these things because they’ve seen a few episodes of Ax-Men.

[trebb]

Joe down the street from me does a great job - if you’re ever in S. MS, look me up and I’ll introduce you to him.

[norwaypinesavage]

I have a $30 four inch vise from Harbor Freight. I'll first cut a good sized tree down and then cut the stump horizontally at work bench height. I bolt the vise to the stump with lag bolts.

I then clamp the chain saw by the bar in the vise and sharpen the chain while still on the saw. It only takes about two or three minutes to sharpen the chain. The proper sized file diameter is very important. It usually tells on the chain packaging what size file to get. I use up about one file per chain. I put an old garbage can over the vise if I plan to be in the same area for a while.

I've been doing this for about 40 years. I've only taken a chain to a shop once. That's when I got a new saw with hardened surfaces that could not be filed with a file.

[CGASMIA68]

I also use the correct size file for touch up and dont sweat the depth any more cause I found out the tractor place I go to will sharpen them for me for 6 bucks.
So I bought a spare for each saw(2) and drop them off occasionally for a good job.I usually do this when the cuttings from the saw start to look like saw dust vs shavings and the cut gets wavy.Maybe once a year for me
I am lucky the store is only a few miles from here.
So if there is a shop near by the original poster can try that.

[franklin50]

Timberline chain sharpener. Awesome! Simple to use and very effective.

[Eric in the Ozarks]

My local lawn mower repair shop does an excellent chain sharpening job for $5.
I can get through a cut with a small rat tail file but have learned to keep a couple of spare chains in the carry case.

And always keep the chain up out of the dirt. Lasts longer that way.

[exit82]

BTTT. Bookmark for great info.

[buffaloguy]

I was told by a tree service guy to sharpen my chain lightly at every refill of gasoline. It really works and I use a Sears electric sharpener to do the job. Just plug it into the truck and go. It takes about minute.

It preserves the engine as it doesn’t have to run so hard. I would rather buy new chains than new engines.

I use a Stihl Farm Boss. Nothing better.

[woodbutcher1963]

I have tried multiple sharpening systems. As others have pointed out the best way to preserve the life of the chain is to sharpen them by hand. I have one of these:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200308557_200308557?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Logging-_-Chain%20Saw%20Sharpeners%2C%20Maintenance%20%2B%20Repair-_-1976&ci_sku=1976&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw={keyword}&gclid=CNuuwsSd4LMCFcKPPAodBzkAEw

I also have grinding wheel setups for my Dremel. If you sharpen the blade by hand, clean the air filter, make sure the bar oil is filled and always mix FRESH gas you should never have many problems.

Do you have an air compressor to clean out around the clutch and automatic oiler and air filter? This is very important in maintaining your saw. If the oiler gets plugged, the blade will bind. It can also effect the blade brake from engaging.

[Errant]

Maybe I just need to switch to Oregon brand chain then.

Thanks,

[pallis]

Check out Bailey’s for files and guides. They have some of the best prices. The only time I use a grinder is when the chain is too dinged up to work it out by hand. Even then, I usually finish it out by hand to get a good, even edge on both sides.

[OKSooner]

I just keep several chains handy and take them to the shop when most of them get dull and they get sharpened by someone who frankly does it better than I could.

Speaking only for myself, mind you.