Posted on 09/30/2012 1:17:31 PM PDT by Blueflag
Seeking advice on brands and sources to select and buy a piston recoil reducer in my AR-15 stock.
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Only those closest to the one carrying the excess load of testosterone. Just ask Mrs L....
First I’ll confirm the make and model he uses. Don’t know if it’s the one from Brownells or the other one posted by a FReeper.
AR’s (and all guns) are like boats — you drop money on them just ‘cuz you can. ~$100 for a cool gizmo recommended by a true warfighter you personally know is worth the risk.
I’ll see what I can do and post back here and ping you.
Go back to an M16A1 and stay away from all the "cool guy" optics and other junk on the gun. If you can't engage at 460 meters with iron sites on an M16A1, you should be issued an M249 and spray the hell out of the target.
The heavy barrel on the M16A2 was an improvement, but the 3 round burst mechanism and change in rifling was an abortion.
If this guy is doing door-kicker exercises, he may require a weapon that is easier to maneuver in narrow confines, but most troops don't need the M4.
BTW- The recoil is negligent. He needs to reinforce his 8-steady hold factors instead of looking for the holy grail.
You're joking, right? Those things are pipsqueaks and always have been. I carried a BAR when I was a PFC and that puppy was completely controllable - so much so, I could easily keep all of my rounds into man-sized silhouettes as far as I could see them. You could actually see the strike of the rounds through the peep sight and control your fires.
Never had to worry about too many hits with a BAR either: when you connect with a Caliber .30 M2 Ball (.30-'06), they stay down.
If you really have trouble controlling a 5.56 in full auto, might I recommend the .22LR?
Bookmark.
I had to read that post of your twice before I could believe my eyes. You do realize, don't you, that the 9mm carbine fires pistol ammunition - the same as the old Luger and P-38 and the M9 Beretta - while the other German rounds you mentioned were full-power 7.92mm rifle rounds? Even the anemic little 5.56 is far more powerful and deadly that a carbine firing pistol ammo. Probably not too bad at 25 meters but ridiculous at 100m. Even the much-maligned M1 Carbine was considerably more effective than the 9mm carbines/submachineguns.
You need a little more range time, buddy!
I had to read that post of your twice before I could believe my eyes. You do realize, don't you, that the 9mm carbine fires pistol ammunition - the same as the old Luger and P-38 and the M9 Beretta - while the other German rounds you mentioned were full-power 7.92mm rifle rounds? Even the anemic little 5.56 is far more powerful and deadly that a carbine firing pistol ammo. Probably not too bad at 25 meters but ridiculous at 100m. Even the much-maligned M1 Carbine was considerably more effective than the 9mm carbines/submachineguns.
You need a little more range time, buddy!
I carried an M16-A1 against Viet Cong in combat. We had no trouble killing VC with that "pipsqueak".
And just where did you fire that BAR against the enemy?
The M-16A1 sucked. Stupid thing jammed too often and I saw way too many VC hit and keep going - and way too many dead Marines with broken-down M-16s by them. All of the hype surrounding that thing's supposed terminal ballistics was just that, hype. My M-14 always functioned, no matter what and when I hit somebody, they stayed right where they were. When I got hit, there was a fight over who got to take my rifle.
Before accusing a fellow veteran of BS, consider asking for refining data first. we have enough know-it-all critics without doing it to each other.
My Father always liked the BAR. His sergeant shot down an FW-190 with one.
Their outfit, combat engineers were working in a quarry and had several people doing lookout while they worked. I am sure it was mostly luck but he did it.
When the outfit was disbanded in November 1945 each soldier was given a short history of the outfits adventures. They were on a large piece of paper, maybe 5X5 feet and written on both sides. They consisted of maps with comments and hand drawn pictures of their adventures.
Sure enough, there is one of the guy shooting down the plane. although I think they drew a Messerschmidt. instead of the correct plane.
Wow - that was a lucky shot! I have nothing but admiration for guys like your Dad and all those young men who served with him. That big piece of paper with all their stories would be a treasure - does it still exist?
sfl
Not only does it still exist, I have it. Also it turns out several other children and grandchildren of the battalion also have a second copy which I think one of my brothers or sisters have.
Anyway they have shared photographs of their copies as I have shared mine with them. I would guess there are at least 4 or 5 originals still around. They were originally in a round map case but it deteriorated over the years as have the corners of the original.
I pinged my friend to get clarification on the model of buffer he and his team employ.
Pretty sure it’ll be the Enidine.
I let him know the reaction of some of the posters here that amount to ‘real men don’t need it.’ Telling him something like that would be akin to telling a former Seal, or Marine Force Recon the same thing. Not saying he wasn’t all of those, but ... you tell him to his face he doesn’t need it ;-)
I would suggest a pistol or revolver for her to fight her way to the shotgun. I don’t disagree with a shotgun, but recommend #1 shot (not the easiest to find) as that gives more holes, than #0, #00, or #000, and #1 will penetrate through and through a human. For 3 inch magnums that is 25 each .30 caliber pellets for each round. Certainly with a rifle you wouldn’t feel poorly armed if you had the ability to send 25 each .30 caliber projectiles at a threat.
I don’t normally recommend a pump action. My notion is you don’t owe the bad guy a ‘rack sound’ which they might use as an opportunity to fire first. You do owe yourself a duty to be sure of your target and what lies behind it.
I use double barrel 12 gauges, and have several identical ones each of in several rooms. Stoeger makes a coach gun that is reliable and economical.
Dual triggers means that if one trigger doesn’t work, the other might.
BAR had a low rate of fire, and that tended to spread out the recoil. With that, and the bipod, the bursts were sometimes too accurate, all rounds hitting nearly the same place, not giving enough dispersion to tag an enemy moving away from his firing position.
The M-14 that I was issued and lived with for a year was never as accurate as the BAR. Partly that was due to the lighter M-14 weight, partly due to the higher rate of fire, partly due to the bipod being further from the end of the barrel. Worst jam I ever had was on my M-14 when the firing pin came out the back of the bolt then stabbed its way through the trigger assembly.
The M-16A1 was very accurate in semiautomatic, so much so that it was our preferred engagement mode. By the time the bolt moved, the round was out the barrel. Automatic fire was (back then too high, 750+ rpm) and the recoil added up. Short bursts required concentration. We could sometimes get 10 bursts from a 30 round mag in ideal conditions, but that would quickly turn into one burst if attention flagged. The last 28 rounds would be deadly if a bird was flying low, but unlikely to hit an enemy.
the AK-47 (we trained with Romanian ones) was reliable and easy to field strip, but seemed like someone kicked the whole washing machine down the stairs. Unlikely to hit anything you aimed at beyond 150 yards, but you might hit a lot of things you didn’t aim at.
Never fired an M-4. The shorter barrel gives lower velocity. The 5.56mm military rounds are most effective if they hit meat at higher than 2500 feet per second, and even then only yaw and fragment if they hit with the point not quite on. To meet that velocity number you have to position your target to within about 50 meters (a bit more with the 55 grain rounds), and should try to hit with at least 2 to have a good chance of having at least one round yaw and fragment. Good tactic at close range: Keep firing at known t threats until the threat is gone. Good tactic at long range: shoot one round at known and suspected target positions (subject to ROE concerns with civilians) and keep shooting to discourage enemy from firing back.
Lethality is much less than 100%. Humans tend to survive gunshots unless hit in brain, spine or heart. Brain, spine, and heart are less than 10% of human cross section, though can be more if your opponent is looking over a wall at you with only his head exposed.
No doubt, if one goes in harms way you look for any edge you can get. To do less would be disrespectful of the folks back home who hope to see you return.
Our troops would be far better served if the current flash suppressor was redesigned as a muzzle break.
I machined such a muzzle break for my semi-auto M4 for hunting Jackrabbits in Nevada. My first attempt actually over-compensated and shoved the muzzle down with each shot. That is a very unnatural movement and very difficult to control. After several iterations of machining, I got it absolutely neutral with respect to muzzle jump. The rearward motion is negligible. Now I can just hold the cross hairs on a running rabbit and touch the trigger until a bullet strikes home. The 223 Rem/5.56mm cartridge shoots fast enough and flat enough that a hold over or lead is not necessary out to over 150 yards.
Year, I like full auto fire against those grass stealing bunnies also. My Model 1928 Thompson Sub Machine Gun is a real kick to shoot at running rabbits. On my last hunt I averaged on Jackrabbit per 30-shot magazine. That is a considerable improvement over some of my first efforts.
The only thing more fun than shooting at running targets with a machine gun is to use tracers. It doesn't get any better than that.
I've often heard of these mythical rifles that set aside the laws of time and distance, but I was never lucky enough to be able to buy one from a proud owner.
A jackrabbit can go 40 mph, or 58 feet per second. Time of flight for a .223 at 160 yards is 0.19 seconds. Aim right at that sucker and every one of my 223s will hit 11 feet behind him. If he is poking along at half speed, I'm only 5.5' behind, but that usually speeds him up for the next shot.
Holdover is totally dependent upon how the rifle is sighted in, so it can be set for most any distance. My rifles will do that.
I’m curious if your sight picture jumps around noticeably less and allows faster/more-accurate following shots beyond CQB/point-shooting range. For example: Will it help you hit a 6” plate *faster* at 50 yards with the device, than without it?
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