Posted on 10/25/2011 10:45:02 AM PDT by DTogo
Thinking about .223 hardware at a good price ($329), like Soviet Bloc designs/surplus, and have a spare scope that needs a home. AR platforms are usually expensive, humdrum design, and I see a lot of jams at the range.
http://kalinkaoptics.com/mounts/ak-vepr-saiga-romak-1-2-slr.html
Do not get a picitinny dust cover. it is not solid.
I would not mount anything more powerful than 4x for a scope.
This is what you want. Original equip.
I have tried some cheapy knock offs and they dont cut the mustard.
they are OK...the .308 is about my speed....but I would prefer a FN FAL or a M1A.
when I play with antiques it is with my original 1873 Winchester made in 1882 in 44-40
when I want performance (ie, kill bison)I shoot my 1884 Trapdoor in 45-70 or shoot my sons modern 1895 Marlin in 45-70 with my hotrodded ammo.....
generally I prefer Revolvers over autoloaders...except for my 1943 bone stock military 1911A1 remington rand which is my favorite handgun.
Hey, I like the old stuff too.
My M1917 will out shoot all of them for accuracy. It had been “sporterized” with a hacksaw to 22” and tossed bullets sideways when I bought it. A recrown, Timney trigger, conversion to (mostly) cock on opening (total investment $225, including rifle) and we’re good. Makes Nagant fans green when I bang holes in T-style fence posts from 250 yds, open sights.
I bought a Taurus 1911 and was really impressed with it. Then, I bought another in 38 Super. All the bells and whistles included and neither have ever jammed, even intentionally limp-wristing, etc. A good one to carry and beat around without the guilt and risk of a real classic. Sort of ugly with the gold stuff down in the stamping, but it’s wearing off, LOL! I would prefer a fully supported chamber in the 38 so I could really lean on it, but for the price and how it runs, I’m really pleased.
Keep shooting.
SERIOUSLY??? You’re concerned about jams but are contemplating buying some unknown crap from a third world manufacturer instead of a rifle from a reputable manufacturer... Seriously???
I currently have an 03A3 that someone ‘chopped’ all to hell....wound up being owned by a NYC cop who wanted to get rid of all his guns...he sold it through a common friend to me for $50...the thing is butt ugly what with the ‘sporterized by saw stock’ etc...but this thing will group into a half inch with surplus Danish and Greek ammo all day...a wonderfully accurate piece.
Lock and Load
Vaquero
Thanks for the feedback!
Because of the scope I was scratching my chin on 16" barrel vs. 20"... thoughts?
Yep, have had good experiences with low cost Soviet Bloc hardware while seeing "comrades" suffer at the range or in the field (hunting) with much higher-priced items they were previously very proud of.
My M1917 was produced between Dec ‘18 and Jan ‘19, and really hasn’t been shot that much.
The rifling is very sharp, but the bore is very pitted. Evidently, they just proofed these “postwar” guns and stacked them up to clear the contract. It’s rough enough to pull lint out of cleaning patches!!!, so I use a bore snake.
I was a bit concerned about this, and the first few times I shot it, I held it well away from my face, but the brass and primers looked OK. The stock has been chopped, the barrel channel free floated and the action bedded.....and if it can hit T-posts at 200 yards every time I do my part, I can claim MOA performance. Go figure. It’s old and ugly, but gets the job done, sort of a reflection of it’s owner!
you can lap a bore with valve lapping compound on tight fitting patches or you can load up real light loads and coat the bullets with valve lapping compound...or a few companies sell pre coated bullets for bore lapping...this should be done judiciously as you only want to smooth out the bore and not take off so much metal as to lose accuracy.
http://www.davidtubb.com/final-finish-tms
my Winchester ‘73 had extremely light rifling...I assume it was shot with corrosive rounds...put away dirty and then eventually shot again...the barrel was probably just a rusty hole...and when shot again it cleaned out the rust and most of the rifling....the chamber was also enlarged...
I slugged the bore by driving a larger lead bullet down the barrel with a rod and mallet and measured the bullet with a micrometer and what should have been .427”(the old .44 were .427” as oppose to modern .44s which are .430) the bore measured .432” at its tightest point...I cast some bullets out to .432 but they were not as accurate as store bought .431” bullets from Oregon Trail.
with the almost shot out bore I am able to group 3” to 4” at 100 yds....more than accurate enought for most uses that an enemic .44-40 should be used for out to 100yds...
at cowboy action shooting ranges it always rings steel...
and I poured thousands of smokeless rounds through my almost 130 year old piece.
good shooting.
Tubb makes lapping bullets, copper jacketed with abrasive impregnated in the jackets. You get 50 bullets, 10 each of five separate grits.
I bought some intending them for the Enfield, but since it shoots as it is, I used them to break in the barrel on an AR-10 with excellent results. Near-zero fouling after an entire day at the range and sub-moa accuracy with anything that says 308 (as long as the rounds have good concentricity, that is)!
If you are set on the Saiga, why not opt for the 308?
The Saiga .308 is not on sale, and the accessibility of .223 is a factor in the purchase consideration.
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