Posted on 04/25/2011 4:18:19 AM PDT by Red in Blue PA
A very nice looking gun. 100% made in the USA.
Also Series 70.
(Excerpt) Read more at downrange.tv ...
yeah I get Banes blog emailed to me...interesting gun.
thank goodness it is not another series 80 lawyer engineered 1911.
I for one though am happy with my bone stock, 1944, Remington Rand and feel perfectly safe that it will not shoot me by accident even though it only has 2 safety features and not 3.
Looks like a good, modern manufacturing of the classic design with statistical process control over CNC production. Since Ruger’s subsidiaries do good work on casting and forging already, they should have a winner of a product, provided that they don’t let the price get carried away from them.
After having worked on several 1911’s now, the single biggest thing I see in some of the modern pieces is the quality of the steel. The foreign-made 1911’s don’t have it. When you start polishing to re-blue (or take off parkerizing and put on a blue job), you get all these little pits that float up in the polishing job on the Brazilian and Asian pistols. It seems like you can polish forever and never get all the pits out. That doesn’t reassure me on the soundness of the metal...
The first target sprayed him with water.
It fought back!
That looks like a heck of a fun way to shoot!
It does!
Now I’m jealous.
Yes, those are the two main features of the 1911 which are really obsolete by today’s standards.
1911 pistols (like Harleys) are nice, classic, functional icons of American history.
They are also egregiously overpriced inferior technology.
Flame Away!
For the 1911 purist, they can be a downside as well as an upside.
The ramped barrel is something that is supposed to help when feeding the truncated, conical and HP ammo, but if the angle is overdone, it can result in worse feeding than the stock setup.
Another reason for using a ramped barrel is better support for the case head for high pressure rounds like the .38 Super, et al.
The stock .45 ACP barrels leave part of the case head unsupported. For a .45 ACP loaded to nominal .45 ACP pressures, this is no issue, the pressures in the .45 ACP cartridge are well within the ability of the brass to contain it.
The ramped barrel mod (ie, putting the ramp on the barrel) also requires cutting into the frame to provide for a place for that ramp. In the normal 1911, there is a ramp milled into the frame. Lots of 1911’s have been made more reliable by simply polishing the ramp in the frame and the little ramp cut at the rear of the barrel to a high gloss, and making sure that the fit-up between the barrel and the frame is good. I’ve shot plenty of 1911’s without ramped barrels, and unless I’m using something like a truncated cone, semi-wadcutter ammo, I’ve never had a problem feeding without a ramped barrel.
The extractor - I’m guessing you mean a Commander extractor to prevent stovepipes by getting the case out earlier? I’m not sold on this as a feature. I’ve never had a problem with the default 1911 extractor, and stovepipes have been a function of limp-wristing the pistol (in my experience) or lack of cleaning slowing down the slide.
Two things to remember about the HiPower: It used a double-stack mag. When you go from single-stack to double stack magazines, you take on a whole new dimension of issues in making the feeding of cartridges into the chamber a reliable process. Second, it was designed for 9x19, not the .45 ACP. The bullet proportions of the 9x19 ball ammo, coupled with the double stack issue, are part of what leads to the ideas in the HP.
As opposed to.... ?
It looks nice.
Sounds like you are a tupperware fan.....and I do not mesn the kind that goes on the kitchen table.
Would love to hear how the 1911 is an “inferior” gun.
The reason why so many people seem to butcher guns with a Dremel is that they’re inexperienced with how much they can take off. Wind up some aluminum oxide or a carbide cutter to 15,000 RPM and one little slip results in a big error.
Rather than using a gritstone to do this type of polishing, I’ll use a wee little cotton buffer and some 220 or finer polishing compound. I don’t use gritstones or aluminum oxide.
Then there are newer abrasives like Cratex that also really work well:
The point being, using the usual aluminum oxide grit tooling that many people use with dremel or foredom tools is pretty aggressive for this application.
One more thing to consider when polishing: Scotch-Brite. It can be had in hand pads, wheels and strips.
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