Thanks for all the replies thus far. The more the merrier. Going to try and few things and be back later. Thanks again!
Check your battery........
Buy an Apple iPad 2, it’s the answer to everything these days!
I have a 2000 Bravada, and when it did that it was the in tank fuel pump.
I have a ‘99 Olds Bravada which stopped starting a few days back (you get the sound like it’s going to start, but it rarely turns over).
We tried two different fuel pumps, thinking that was the problem.
After beating on the fuel tank with a rubber mallet while simultaneously turning the key in the ignition, the car would sometimes start.
My brother is doing the work on the car and thinks the problem could be related to the distributor cap or cap and rotor.
Or possibly a problem with the fuel injectors. We’re definitely getting a spark when we try to start the car.
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OK , here goes ...
The distributor cap or rotor rarely cause a no-start problem ,, a miss under load ,, sure ,, poor fuel economy YEP... to be sure pull the cap and scrub it clean to make sure there is no carbon tracking ... If it is ignition it is likely the pickup or the ignition module (under the rotor??) ,, the modules however usually work well cold and fail when hot.
I don’t know what you mean by “(you get the sound like it’s going to start, but it rarely turns over).” IS THE ENGINE TURNING OVER?? ARE YOU HEARING IT SPUTTER BUT NOT CATCH??
If the battery is weak you could have a slow crank, weak ignition and a low fuel pressure problem all at the same time .. if the battery reads under 12.6V charge it or borrow one out of another car ...
The 45psi fuel pressure tells me that both pumps (low pressure transfer and high pressure) are operating ,,, but if you need 60 and have 45 you obviously have a problem somewhere ... don’t throw parts at it unless you have a u-pull yard nearly .. diagnose it...
Without seeing the vehicle, I assume it’s equipped with a 4.3 6 cyclinder, probably a vortec. If so, on the very top of the engine is a small square plastic device, on the very top in the center. It is attached with 2 torx screws. Remove those screws and that piece look down in the hole with a flashlight if you see any puddles of fuel the injector assembly is bad. It is commonly nicknamed an octopus. Also check on the back of the engine in front of the driver are steel fuel supply lines going in to the back of the engine. Turn the key on and look for any evidence of fuel leakage right there. That is a common problem and parts are available through GM dealership. Those are 2 very common problems with that particular engine setup. If you have 45 lbs of pressure that is sufficient for the engine to run.
When you turn the key on without cranking the engine, you should hear the fuel pump run for approximately 3 seconds. Then check the 2 things listed above. Can’t do more without talking to you or hearing or looking at the vehicle.
There are a few things to check.
1) When you turn the key to the run position (not start) do you here the fuel pump humming for 2 to 5 seconds?
2) When you remove a spark plug wire and crank the engine over, do you get spark snapping from that plug wire. (Use a screw driver in the end of the spark plug wire and hold close to engine block, 1/4 inch, have someone try to start the engine)
This last one you will only have to do if the first two check OK. If you do not have a “noid” light, you will have to borrow or purchase one.
3) Disconnect the injector harness from one of the injectors and install a “noid” light. Crank the engine over, do you get a pulse.
“distributor cap or cap and rotor.”
On a 99 Bravada. Wow.
Remove front dashboard, look under dash for a large connector. Make sure you have a good tight connection.
If available, check the service codes
DTC P1626
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The control module communicates with other modules using the Class 2 Serial Data circuit. The vehicle theft deterrent (VTD) body control module (BCM) sends a vehicle security password to the powertrain control module (PCM), via the Class 2 Serial Data circuit, after the BCM has sensed the proper operation of the ignition switch and lock, and determined that the switch and lock have not been tampered with. If this password matches the password stored in the PCM, fuel will be enabled. If the BCM does not send a password, or if the PCM does not receive it, the vehicle will not start, or it may start and stall. This will set a DTC P1626 in the PCM memory. If communication is lost after receiving the password, the VTD Passlock system will go into Fail Enable, set a U1192 in the PCM memory, and the engine will continue to run. This will allow the engine to restart on future ignition cycles but may set a DTC P1626 as the engine is started. If the battery is disconnected or the codes are cleared, the vehicle will lose its Fail Enable status and will not start until communication is re-established.
DTC P1631
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The Class 2 Serial Data circuit is used in order to communicate between the powertrain control module (PCM) and the vehicle theft deterrent body control module (BCM) systems.
When the passlock portion of the VTD system has sensed the proper operation of the ignition switch and lock, or determined that the switch and lock have not been tampered with, the BCM transmits a password to the PCM. Fuel delivery is enabled if this password matches the password stored in the modules memory. If a component in the theft deterrent system has been replaced, the modules need to relearn the password of the new components. If the relearn procedure was not performed, this diagnostic trouble code (DTC) will set.
If a VTD failure occurs during an ignition cycle that the PCM has enabled fuel, then the BCM will enter a fail-safe mode: Fail Enable VTD System Failure with Fuel Enabled. The BCM remains in Fail Enable Mode, for the current and future ignition cycles, until the fault is corrected and a valid password is received, or until battery power is removed. If the battery is disconnected or the codes are cleared, the vehicle will lose its Fail Enable status and will not start until the fault is corrected, the ten minute timer expires, and the PCM receives the correct fuel delivery password.
2)These vehicles have a problem with the security system. The security system will sense that you don't have a proper key. The car will start while the key is turned, but the engine dies as soon as the key is released. The fix is not fun: The ignition switch housing needs replacement when this happens. It has a hall effect sensor in it that goes bad. This requires removal of the air bag, then the steering wheel, then the plastic cover over the switch, then the switch housing. This piece costs about $150 from Chevrolet, but its about $500 to have it replaced. (The ignition switch has three different parts: The tumbler the key fits into, the switch, and the housing. Make sure you replace the right one.
To reset the security system, you must attempt to start the car three times in a row, and wait 10 minutes and leave the key on after each attempt until the “security” light goes out. If you try this at night, the battery goes dead, since the headlights stay on the whole time. Do it during the day. I know this sounds very goofy, but believe me, its necessary, if you have this problem. Google it, it is a common problem with this vehicle.
Nuke...from orbit...only way...be sure
Get a bigger hammer...and maybe you’re not sticking your tongue out properly.
A GM owner told me that his car wouldn’t start once and he though he had a fuel pump problem too. He learned that GM had installed a computer program that controls the fuel system in the car. If the fuel in the gas tank is very low the car will not start in order to keep it from running the injectors out of fuel. He said they added enough fuel and the car started right up. Sounds logical, but I couldn’t confirm it.