Without seeing the vehicle, I assume it’s equipped with a 4.3 6 cyclinder, probably a vortec. If so, on the very top of the engine is a small square plastic device, on the very top in the center. It is attached with 2 torx screws. Remove those screws and that piece look down in the hole with a flashlight if you see any puddles of fuel the injector assembly is bad. It is commonly nicknamed an octopus. Also check on the back of the engine in front of the driver are steel fuel supply lines going in to the back of the engine. Turn the key on and look for any evidence of fuel leakage right there. That is a common problem and parts are available through GM dealership. Those are 2 very common problems with that particular engine setup. If you have 45 lbs of pressure that is sufficient for the engine to run.
When you turn the key on without cranking the engine, you should hear the fuel pump run for approximately 3 seconds. Then check the 2 things listed above. Can’t do more without talking to you or hearing or looking at the vehicle.
Think the problem was resolved and after a week with no car, I think I have a car again.
What was wrong?
The ignition coil had a crack in it. When we got the car started, we sprayed a little mist of water onto the ignition coil and immediately the car shut off.
So with it being in the 30s and damp where the car usually is parked, I bet enough moisture was getting inside, to prevent the car from starting.
Shame I can’t take the new $400 fuel pump back, and put the old one back on, which was working fine.
The reason this can’t be done is because the newer fuel pumps have different male/female structures in their parts and wires were cut from under the vehicle in order to attach the new fuel pump.
Thanks again to everyone for their suggestions and humor!!!
And if anyone has any closing thoughts on anything, please let me know.