Posted on 01/15/2011 5:00:27 PM PST by mamelukesabre
Just wondering who knows about S&W revolver stocks. I went to 4 gun shops looking for faux ivory grips for a 44mag S&W today. No luck.
I have an N-frame 44mag roundbutt and I took a set of old style(really old) S&W factory wood grips off a squarebutt K-frame S&W model 10 and put them on the N-frame 44mag just to see how far off they are. Except for being squarebutt instead of roundbutt...appears to me the stocks are a match. So now I am wondering why S&W revolver stocks are sold as being either for K/L frame or for N-frame but not for all of the above.
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=211854785
Afraid I am no help on this S&W question. But I did wonder, did ya get that eminent domain fiasco squared away? I’ve been hoping you got a decent resolution to that whole thing.
Doesn’t the frame fall away from the wood near the bottom leaving a sharp edge on the wood?
Someone at the S&W forum might have the info you want.
Go to Ebay and key in Smith & Wesson J, K, or N frame wood grips, square or round butt. I’ve bought lots of them.
yes, the frame is roundbutt and the grips are for squarebutt. I don’t have any k frame round butt grips to try out.
thanks.
I didn’t ask any questions but I looked at all the pics and saw someone posted a pic of an N frame with K frame stocks mounted. It appears the only difference between the k and n frame stocks is the part at the very top where the frame bump below the hammer presses against the crotch of your hand. K frame stocks mounted on N frame guns will have the grip not quite line up with the frame bump. Since I used a very old set of grips that don’t have the part extending up to the frame bump I didn’t notice any ill fitting.
See post number 58 in your link.
For all you gun nuts, here’s what I did and what I’m fixin to do:
I recently purchased a brand spanking new S&W 44mag nightguard. I got a real good deal. I’m a traditionalist and I like the old style revolvers...as in pre 1950. I like roundbutt revolvers with minimal grips(maybe a tyler t grip added) and the old fashioned low profile fixed sights, and long skinny barrels.
What attracted me to the nightguard was the fixed sights and the grips that are somewhat plain like the old days(no finger grooves and not huge). Also the cylinder appears to have a little more bevel on the forward edge...almost like they used to do a hundred years ago. I’ve never shot anything made of scandium or titanium so that was also an attraction. I bought it through the mail without actually ever seeing one in person.
Well, now I got the gun and actually shot it a few times and decided I can’t stand it. So I’m in the process of re-making it to my specs. I need an old set of small smooth ivory grips, and narrow (uber skinny) trigger and matching skinny hammer. Possibly a flat latch cylinder release. Possibly a bobbed hammer. Remove the lawyer lock, then figure out how to make those sights low profile. If I can do all that maybe I’ll even try to UNSHROUD the ejector and then nickel plate the whole thing.
I just read what I typed and I am nuts.
I own no S&W round butts, YET! Sorry I can’t help you.
Sounds like there’s a possibility you’re going to spend a lot of money and find out you still don’t like it.
Your round but N frame does indeed take round butt K frame grips. It’s how they were made.
Have you considered selling it and buying an old style?
Old style what where and by who? they aren’t made anymore as far as I can tell. I’ve had my eyes open on this for years now. That’s why I jumped when I saw the nightguard. It’s the closest thing to an old style there is as far as I know...at least in terms of a large bore double action revolver that doesn’t cost 2grand. I’m talking new of course, not used.
I was talking used. I like used guns. If they have a scratch or two, and a little finish wear, better yet. Then I won’t baby them and I will use them.
Have fun with your new friend.
Lose the hammer thumb cocking tang, make it DA only ,, significantly lighten and work over the trigger ,, add a narrow trigger with a positive stop for overtravel.. and enjoy.
Progress so far...
Bought a stone from brownells and watched a few vids on youtube, then took my brand new N frame apart and went to work. Added a low power wolff hammer spring and a very low power rebound spring.
Bought an old forged skinny trigger off the internet for 25 bucks I think, then stoned it, and contoured the trigger face, and swapped out the original wide face trigger.
Whittled down an old nasty beat up pair of S&W K frame square butt target stocks to fit the new round butt N frame. They are not a perfect match. The hump behind the hammer on an N frame is bigger than on a K frame so there is a small area where the crotch of your hand meets the gun that the stocks don’t line up right. But they are good enough for now.
Installed side plate shims.
Removed the lawyer lock
Removed a little slide thingy that my older smiths don’t have. It appears to be redundant to the hammer block on the rear of the hammer that prevents you from cocking the hammer when the cylinder is swung out. Except the slide thingy blocks the trigger instead of the hammer when the cylinder is swung out.
Hosed it all down probably 2 dozen times with CLP and dry fired it maybe 2000 times without the cylinder in place(to save wear and tear on the hand, ejector star, and cylinder bolt). Action is getting incredibly smooth.
Hammer spring is a little too light since I’m getting missfires every now and then. Spring tensioning screw is all the way in so I’m going to add an extended firing pin and a shim on the hammer spring.
I can’t find any moon clips for 44special/44mag. I don’t know if they are made. Haven’t bobbed the hammer yet. Thinking about barrel porting.
Thinking about reshaping the trigger by bending it a little. I want it closer to the rear of the trigger guard when the trigger us all the way rearward.
AFAIK, the S&W 329 NG requires machining of the cylinders for moon clips. You can get the clips from the company doing the machining. Here is a link, but I have no experience with them. I’m sure there are other places to do this.
http://www.moonclips.com/cart/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=31&cat=.44+Magnum
You’ve been quite busy. Are you planning on posting photos when you’re finished?
http://www.moonclips.com/cart/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=31&cat=.44+Magnum
Don’t know if this would help.
I like.
You can cut down on the time spent dry firing to slick it up by putting a small dab of toothpaste on your bearing surfaces. A little goes a long way, so be careful. Some surfaces can handle more than others.
For moon clips I believe you would have to turn the face of the cylinder or they cylinder wouldn't close.
Anyone know if a hammer with a firing pin attached can be de-firing-pinned and used in a frame with a frame mounted firing pin?
How bout removing the frame mounted firing pin and using a hammer attached firing pin?
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