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To: JDoutrider

Agree......Yeah WD40 sucks for weapons ........great for drying out a distributor cap that gets flooded or removing a bumper sticker and that’s about it shy of a squeeky hinge er three.......

Militech 1 oil and grease is lone PM POL products I personally use shy of a rustpruffe rag carried with other cleaning tools.

There have been sooooooooooo many recipes for panther piss cleaning products that I can not count em. But for field cleaning and maintenance I use the products above. When back in safe areas I will detail clean with ultrasonic cleaners, boiling water baths etc to swab it surgical clean and then reapply the militec 1 per directions.

That stuff worked for me in the wet and dry regions I was deployed to later in my career. Prior to that I kept it as dry as possible using very little teflon based lube after cleaning. Albeit I never had the bad luck to have to go full auto with my rifle through more than a mag or two with a AR series. It was reliable and I would not hesitate to use such a method for PM again if Militec 1 products were not available.

Stay safe !


193 posted on 04/19/2010 11:08:38 PM PDT by Squantos (Be polite. Be professional. But have a plan to kill everyone you meet)
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To: Squantos; JDoutrider
I read an article once years ago in a Popular Mechanics magazine about using WD-40 on firearms. I seem to remember TWO things about it.

1. It's a poor lubricant for firearms.

2. There was some evidence that it could actually damage the type of steel that firearms are made of.

I'm not qualified enough to speak on the second one. The only time I'll use it on a firearm is if it got wet. WD-40 is fantastic at displacing water (hence the name!... Water Displacement Formula 40), but we don't leave it on firearms. Hoppes #9 "seems" to do a very good job at all things involving cleaning and lubricating, but it just doesn't seem to stay put for very long. It sure does smell good though. :-)

I concur on the Militec-1. #2 son here had a rifle built, and by request it was on the "short side" with respect to headspace so we would NEVER have a excessive headspace problem. Of course, you "might" have to FORCE factory ammo into the thing, but IF you can get the bolt closed, it WILL fire! It's basically a short action Remington 700.

Anyway... we reload for .308 and we wanted to try to set the sizing die in such a way that we didn't have to reset it for his rifle, and the others we load for (on a Dillon RL-550B). We weren't having a lot of success and then you (Squantos) told me about Militech-1 and I picked up a small bottle of it.

We followed the instructions...which is important, because it takes HEAT (150F for "about" an hour if I remember correctly) to activate the stuff. One of the things we treated that day was the bolt from that rifle.

Before treating that bolt with Militech-1, we were trying various headstamps of newly sized brass in that rifle, and every one of them required the palm of the hand to lock up fully. A few of them required the ole maneuver where you sit on top of the rifle and push DOWN hard with your hand. That was with the die set to size within "spec" for the semi-auto that we have.

After treating that bolt with Militech-1, any of those cases from the same batch took one, and sometimes two fingers to close the bolt. The difference was amazing! The ONLY casings we couldn't get into it were the once fired from a semi-auto we have....but that doesn't matter.

So anyway.. yeah... Militech-1 seems to be pretty good stuff.... pricey, but it DOES work.
200 posted on 04/20/2010 10:53:25 AM PDT by hiredhand
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