The shiny part on the pellet is what you can run an eraser over. Just like shining up an old model train track. Hope this helps. :)
Posted on 10/26/2009 2:06:29 PM PDT by library user
Please pardon the vanity, but having non-mechanical trouble with a 1999 Bravada and am trying to find a fix.
A lot of GM vehicles from the late 90s and early 00s have a built-in anti-theft security system called Passlock or Passlock2. When a problem with this system occurs, you may not be able to start your car again for 30-60 minutes (the car's computer essentially thinks a thief is trying to steal the car).
The cost to fix this problem is not exactly easy or cheap, so I figured I would ask if anyone else here has had a similar problem.
I have two keys and they both cause the problem from time to time.
After the car wouldn't start today due to this Passlock problem, I finally got it started by following this procedure:
1) Got out of the driver's seat and closed the driver's door
2) Opened the passenger side door and reached across and put the key in and turned it and the car started just fine.
Is this some kind of fluke, or maybe the seat has a sensor and if it picks up something more than 100 lbs. it stops the car from starting, whenever this glitch is active?
I've scoured the internet automotive forums and there isn't much advice on what to do.
I just don't understand why this Passlock thing is not consistent. For weeks everything will be fine and then out of the blue, I have to get creative on how to get it started.
Again, this is a problem with the car's computer and not a problem with the engine, etc.
Unfortunately, taking a bus or having a friend temporarily give rides to work is impossible as I start at 3:45AM and no one else I know has to be up at that hour.
Had the thing towed like 50 miles and the next day the mechanic calls; "started up just fine"...
I know. I want to try what Erik and Responsibility2nd recommend, but I’m not sure how high the risk is of making things worse.
I went four different places after work today and therefore started the car four different times (as I was standing outside of the car) since the problem this morning, and had no problems.
But I never can tell.
The link to amazon.com above returned a 404 error but I googled the keywords in the URL and got a link that works. I’m just not sure what is all included in the kit and if you need a remote starter in order for that kit to be of value.
According to what I just searched out, Passkey used a special key but Passlock I and II do not, i.e., the active component is in the cylinder. Turning the cylinder causes it to send a code that must match the code in the control module.
So, if nothing simpler works, you could, for a few bucks, try a new key to see if, for mysterious reasons, that does the trick. The next and more expensive try would be a new cylinder and reprogamming of the module. For big bucks, a new control module.
Why not try a new key to see if PFM(Pure Magic) is in play here?
I was in Detroit once and it happened. I turned the car off and got out to mail a letter at a post box and when I got back in it wouldn’t start. In hindsight I probably should have just let it running. It was only for like 30 seconds. You don’t want to be in a bad neighborhood when this happens. I almost feel like I need to insert the “THAT’S RACIST” pic in my own post. :O)
I have two keys already. I should get a third key? Or is there something I can do with the first two keys to figure out what’s going on? Thanks for your reply.
The problem is what also requires you to "reboot" your computer from time to time. Hardware engineers and a handful of software engineers understand. It is a hardware problem that is nearly impossible to trouble shoot because the error isn’t repetitive. It is caused by a "low duty cycle” skewed data bit that is not present when the clock strobes the data. Because it is low duty cycle it may not repeat for hours, days, weeks, months, or years.
Unless the exact cause can be determined, what you are attempting is usually the best approach. find a work around by trial and error.
Had the thing towed like 50 miles and the next day the mechanic calls; "started up just fine"...
Ah yes, that particular part is called the "Murphy Switch."
=)
I know that the 2-3 times (have had the car for 10.5 years, so it is not like a common occurrence)when I have thought it might be something serious and I called for help/another ride, I would wait and not try to start it until my help person arrived, and it would always start then, which would probably be 10-20 minutes later.
98 LeSabre same deal. The SECURITY lights pops on, and have to wait for it to go out. Usually just a few minutes though. Noticed it does it primarily when it’s raining or high humidity.
If it’s the same problem I had...it’s something to do with 2 tiny wires in the ignition switch that measures the resistance across the “pellet” in your key when you put it in the ignition switch.
I cut and spliced back together the necessary wires for the hack and even went so far as to purchase the correct resistor to install between them and solder if it ever did it again. Of course, hasn’t done it since.
I remember a quick dealer suggestion was to take a pencil eraser to the exposed metal bits in the pellet and “shine them up a bit.”
Good luck with it, and sorry to hear it’s caused you grief.
Just found this:
NOTE *1 the BCM (Body Control Module) is located to the RIGHT of the Gas Pedal, attached to the Heater box. The BCM has 3 Plugs that face the Drivers side of the Vehicle. On the BCM is printed the colors of the 3 plugs, PURPLE, BLUE and BROWNThis seems to make a differentiation between driver's side door and passenger door. When I get in the car, I know my foot sometimes hits something to the right of the gas pedal. Maybe this is triggering the problem?
NOTE *2 the DRIVERS DOOR is a TAN (-) Pin B4, PURPLE Plug at the BCM, the PASSENGER DOOR is a ORANGE (-) Pin B2 of the PURPLE Plug, the REAR DOORS and the REAR HATCH is a DARK BLUE/WHITE (-) Pin B11 in the LIGHT BLUE Plug of the BCM. When connecting to an ALARM SYSTEM, use all 3 DOOR TRIGGER wires and DIODE ISOLATE. to connect, See DAIGRAM
check the, ah, specs on the end line, for the rotary girder.
http://www.wavplanet.com/downloadwavs.php?id=865
Since the vehicle is a '99, I thought that the keys may be worn and not turning the cylinder smoothly. A new key might be worth a try for a few bucks.
Bluebeard16, in post #19, has something interesting. I didn't know they can replace the resistors in the cylinder. Doesn't sound too expensive.
What kind of tool do you use to pop the key open? It looks like it opens, but I'm not sure how to get it to open.
Thanks a lot for that suggestion. I’ll check into that.
My bad etiquette. I should have pinged you for post #33.
Yeah, one key looks a little worn, the other is nice and shiny, but both give problems. I’ll see about getting a new key.
If you have PassLock then the key should be just a key. If you have PassKey then the resistor should be in the key.
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