The video in Squantos' post #10 is quite helpful.
Posted on 03/26/2009 7:56:12 PM PDT by saminfl
I recently bought a Mark III. I am having the darnedest time disammbling and reassemnbling it. I have thye manual and have tried to follow it.
When I got it disassembled and ready to assemble, everytime I got the bolt stop back in and tried to close the mainspring housing, the bolt stop would back out. I tried to disassemble it and see what was wrong and now I can't remove the bolt. It pulls out just about a 1/2 inch. Can anyone help?
One of my friends bought one. I disassembled it in front of him and challenged him to put it back together. He couldn’t. Hours later he was still working on it. I took it from him and assembled it real quick. Then disassembled it again and handed it back to him.
More cussing and trying, then he found out the secret. When you assemble it, as you put in the handle latch and vertical crossbolt, TURN THE PISTOL UPSIDE DOWN! The latch will then close.
I bought my first Ruger auto pistol in 1968. It cost $45.00 brand new in Little Rock, Arkansas.
True enough.
I should have bought a small glock .45 ACP for personal carry.
I have a .357 revolver, but it’s a little big for concealed carry.
:)
One nimrod I know says that big, slow rounds are better than fast, little ones. So even the .357, basically a supercharged .38 (9mm), is more of a small and fast round than a big and slow one.
I want to get a .45.
Don’t get me wrong, I am not criticising your choices at all. I have had 9mm, and 10mm guns. Love the 10mm. Love the 9mm. Both have advantages and disadvantages.
I do know a lot of people like the .40 or .45’s.
A .357 magnum hollow point will drop just about anyone, I don’t care what they are on...
Let’s not confuse the .357 Magnum and the 357 Sig here.
The Magnum is a revolver round, and packs quite a bit more energy (~750 ft-lbs). The Sig is a .40 S&W case necked down to a 9mm bullet, and has about 500 ft-lbs.
By comparison, a 9mm is about 400 ft-lbs, and the .40 and .45 are both around 500 ft-lbs.
The 357 Sig is kind of like a “9mm Magnum”, but the .40 has the same energy while making a bigger hole. The Sig just gives you a little better penetration...and it’ll cost you quite a bit more than the .40.
If you REALLY want to step it up, there’s the 10mm. It’s the cartridge the .40 was cut down to...identical bullet, way more energy...it’s about 750 ft-lbs, so like a .357 Magnum but again with a bigger hole. You can think of it as a “.40 Magnum”.
And if you want a “9mm super Magnum” so to speak (or a 357 Sig on steroids), there’s the 9x25 Dillon. That’s the 10mm case necked down to a 9mm bullet. Energy levels comparable to the 10mm, but more penetration with the smaller round.
> I have Walther PPK/S and a S&W 4509 for semi auto pistols.
Actually, that should be S&W 4906 (9mm).
I always get those numbers screwed up. In any event, they don’t make them anymore.
Opps, that’s exactly what I did. My bad...
LOL, My gunsmith shipped it to Ruger...
You got the Ruger with all the extra "lawyer installed" parts.
I love that they call it the "id10"! Does it come in a "-t" model?
I have two of the earlier versions, my advice is get some spray version of Gun Scrubbers, some small bronze brushes or use a regular cleaning kit brush and get a small air compressor, spray, soak, scrub the bolt face, the chamber, clean barrel normally but be careful at the crown, get nylon coated or brass cleaning rods.
And use compressed air to blow all the junk out. They are the most difficult to field strip, of course practice can help you find the proper angle of attack. Spray some CLP at the moving parts and if necessary use more compressed air, wipe off any excess oil.
My .02 cents.
Just picked up a Competition model 2 weeks ago.
That’s anything but a luger. The grip angle might be the same but they have nothing in common with the internals.
There was somthing wrong with it. I have a PPK clone from Hungary that I paid 135 dollars for and I was simply amazed by the accuracy. I think it has something to do with the barrel attached to the frame.
It’s also not a beginners firearm. The blowback design produces a nasty sharp recoil.
Wasn’t it called the “Ruger Luger” at one time? Or is that a different piece?
The video in Squantos' post #10 is quite helpful.
MKII’s the only gun I had to read the instructions twice to get it back together.
Bought a Smith 41. :)
I don't disassemble it any more.
Now I simply use a .22 caliber pull-through bore snake, Q-tips dipped in Hoppes #9 powder solvent, CLP, and Remington Rem Action Cleaner.
The Ruger .22, beginning with the Matk I, has always had a reputation for being a bear to strip and reassemble. It can be done, but it’s far from easy. Be patient, and good luck.
Sweet shooter, though. Nice ergos for my hand. YMMV.
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