It's the land of my ancestors as well. Last time I was there (1997), there was a "heritage center" on nearly every corner in every town (that we visited, anyway, and we went all over Ireland). Definitely "heritage center overkill".
Quite a coincidence: We were there in 1996. Probably not overkill to have so many heritage centers, as tourism is big there including so many from America who are of Irish descent and want to glimpse the old ancestral sod.
From the many things I have read about their politics and their declining church attendance, I am definitely disappointed in the Irish and identify much less with them than I did in my youth.