Central Heating Question

[hsmomx3]

What would be the cause of this?

My cousin has central heating (no gas) and when she turns her heat on above 65 degrees, the entire house smells of sewage. She has had it checked but nobody can tell her what the cause of this is.

Anyone care to take a guess as to the culprit?

[Cedar]

Since this is a central heating thread.... :)


I try to turn the thermostat down at night to save energy (and money). But this old house has some leaks, and the temperature drops fast inside the house.

So, the unit seems to cut on and off just as many times during the night when it's set on 63 degrees compared to when it's set on 72 degrees during the day.

Seems to me there is no benefit in cutting it down if it's going to run just as much as normal. I might as well leave it on 72 and be comfortable.

Is that right? Any heater guys out there who can answer?

Thanks in advance!

(And just as a side note, I have fixed what leaks I could by adding sealing tape, etc.)

[Snoopers-868th]

I am no expert but we live in an old (over 100) house and one year we went crazy with the caulk and sealed up every crack and crevice. We decided to close off all the upstairs registers. It was a mess. The windows developed condensation and ruined all the trim paint. Some of the caulk on the storm windows has been taken off and I enjoy the cracks and crevices again. We have insulated windows and the house itself is well insulated. That is enough in my opinion. A house has to breathe. Interesting when people were not so concerned about a 'tight' house I don't recall radon being a threat. Wonder if there is a connection?

As far as temp in the house. Where is the thermostat in relation to the heat runs? It makes a difference as to the heat in the entire house. One room might be warmer than the other and if the thermostat is close to a heat run it may not be accurate. We don't go by temp. We go by if we are warm or not and we don't do the up and down thing. We also run the furnace fan continuously.

[Cedar]

Thanks for the comments.

I'm not exactly sure what a heat run is....but the thermostat is in the livingroom, and the furnace is in a utility room (close by but separated by a wall).

The house is a 1950's. I'm renting right now since I might move back to my home state in the next year or two.

So, I'm basically just trying to save on the heat bill and be as warm as possible while saving money (if that can be done??).

It's a small house, and every room gets pretty chilly during the night. As I said, even with the unit set down to 63 degrees, it still cuts on and off many times during the night.

If it's going to do that, I see no cost benefit in cutting it down...might as well leave it on 72. But maybe I'm missing something. I'm sure not knowledgeable about heating units. Just thought I'd try getting the answer here.

If there's no savings, I'd love to leave it on 72! But my mind wants to know FOR SURE that I wouldn't be saving any money by keeping it set at 63... :)

[RetiredArmy]

Dead rat in the system vents maybe. I have seen that before.

[SoothingDave]

I was just thinking that maybe she needed more lime in the crawlspace.

No, you put the lime in the coconut and call me in the morning.

[Cedar]

Still hoping for an answer ping.....

(see post #21 & #23)

[cva66snipe]

It sounds like poor insulation for one thing but here are some considerations. In the day time you have less load on the unit usually due to sunlight and outside temps being warmer. With what you are describing the thermostat may not work as well at 63 and to be honest you save no money going that low. The furnace will have to compensate the next morning to get the temps back up meaning an extended run time. Try 68 and see what happens. That may increase the cycle times. You didn't say what type of furnace or if it's central heat and air etc. If it is a heat pump by all means keep it about 70 at night to let it run longer and cut on and off less frequent.

Here's some advice for people with Central heat and air. Do not close off registers in unused rooms or completely shut off any room. There should be about a 2 inch gap at the bottom of the door for air return on closed doors.

You can damage your unit and shorten it's life doing so especially on the cooling cycle or either cycle on a heat pump. It needs the return circulated air to function properly.

[Cedar]

Thanks so much for answering!

It is central heat and air-conditioning in this house. The landlord has no desire to add more insulation, and you're right...it needs more.

The furnace does have to compensate in the morning--first thing I do when I get up is turn the thermostat back up to 71 or so. I've wondered with all that extended run time in the morning if I was just losing whatever savings I had gained during the night.

I think I'll take your advice and try leaving it at 68 during the night.

From your comments....were you saying that it is better for heat pumps to run longer, but not central heat units?

The man who installed the digital thermostat set it to have a longer run or cycle time (or whatever the term should be) instead of the short one--he specifically said that. Guess he knew what he was doing. The furnace seems to run an awfully long time when it's on, no matter what the thermostat is set on-- the lower or higher degrees alike.

I really appreciate your comments and hope you don't mind answering another question for me. :)

[Cedar]

And by the way...it's a gas furnace.

That's why I'm trying to understand this process -- my gas bill is too high!

[cva66snipe]

From your comments....were you saying that it is better for heat pumps to run longer, but not central heat units? The man who installed the digital thermostat set it to have a longer run or cycle time (or whatever the term should be) instead of the short one--he specifically said that. Guess he knew what he was doing. The furnace seems to run an awfully long time when it's on, no matter what the thermostat is set on-- the lower or higher degrees alike.

The reason you don't want the central air {in the air conditioning mode} or a heat pump in either mode to cycle off and on a lot is due to wear and tear on the compressor motor which is a sealed unit.

I've been out of it for a while but on a house my off the top of my head guess is about $800-$1000 for a 2-3 ton compressor to be replaced. I could be off a few hundred either way but I think that is a low bid. Most problems in electrical motors happen on start up as that is when it is using the highest amperage and under the most stress on the windings.

I saw your next post saying it is gas heat. Cycling off and on too often won't hurt anything in general but the fan motor and relays in that case. It's not yours to worry about though :>}

My guess is you're in a colder climate and your furnace unfortunately for you since you pay the gas bill is trying to heat the great outdoors as well. Here's you a few simple things that don't cost nothing. Daytime winter curtains open. Nights curtains closed as they do have some insulating value. Throw rugs or a towel in front of outside doors to block the air. Keep the filters changed once a month. That is to your benefit. If the air flow is blocked you don't get the right circulation. Sorry I can't help more but if the house is lacking attic insulation {which can be corrected the easiest} it's gonna keep running as heat tends to rise and goes out the ceiling. One good way to kind of tell how good your insulation is serving you is to see how much snow gathers on the roof in say a 3-4 inch snow. If none is laying or it melts off the roof fast within the day you likely have poor insulation.

[Cedar]

Thanks again for taking the time to comment.

I've been changing the filter every 3 months, but since you suggested every 1 month I'll start doing that.

If I owned this house, I would definitely be adding more attic insulation. I think that (plus the 1950's windows--no storm windows at all) are the major leak problems here.

Even if I planned on renting for the next 5 years or so, I'd go ahead and pay for the insulation myself. But as I said, I might be moving next year.

Actually, if I owned the house, I'd put in a woodstove heater. To me, that's the best heat around.

I've been able to keep my electric bill in a pretty good range. But the gas bill has been too high, so thought I'd get good advice on FR.

I really do appreciate your replies!

[cva66snipe]

Glad to do it. BTW if you don't have one get a Carbon Monoxide detector. I've never had a gas furnace myself but I live in the Tennessee Valley and electricity is cheaper.