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Son Must Store Motorcycle with Empty tanks for 1 year while in Iraq. Need ideas to prevent rusting.
10 July 2006 | americanranger77

Posted on 07/10/2006 5:44:06 PM PDT by american_ranger

My son is deploying to Iraq with his Army unit for 1 year. US Army will store his motorcycle but he must drain gas tank and crankcase. His friend did this when they went to Afghanistan 2 years ago and came back to rust in his gas tank and the crankcase. He is in Hawaii so the moisture is high. Any ideas on what protective steps he can take.


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1 posted on 07/10/2006 5:44:09 PM PDT by american_ranger
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To: american_ranger

Do you know how to ride it?


2 posted on 07/10/2006 5:44:59 PM PDT by Tribune7
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To: SFC Chromey

bump


3 posted on 07/10/2006 5:46:25 PM PDT by Maximus_Ridiculousness
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Bumping for this advise -I'm curious as well.


4 posted on 07/10/2006 5:47:55 PM PDT by RandallFlagg (Roll your own cigarettes! You'll save $$$ and smoke less!(Magnetic bumper stickers-click my name)
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To: american_ranger

Shouldn't have a problem in the crankcase, but be sure to spin it over several times without starting it to get things lubricated before he restarts later.

For the gas tank, drain it and let it air out. Then hang a cloth sack of dessicant beads in the tank to absorb moisture.


5 posted on 07/10/2006 5:48:23 PM PDT by umgud (Gov't needs a Department of Common Sense)
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To: martin_fierro

PING!


6 posted on 07/10/2006 5:49:11 PM PDT by RandallFlagg (Roll your own cigarettes! You'll save $$$ and smoke less!(Magnetic bumper stickers-click my name)
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To: american_ranger

The first thing that occurs to me is to contact an authorized dealer's service dept,particularly if it's still under warranty.


7 posted on 07/10/2006 5:50:07 PM PDT by Gay State Conservative
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To: american_ranger
I have various antique cars- If you get Hemmings Magazine there is a company in Michigan that sells for lack of better words a "large heavy duty plastic bags" In which you can store cars or motorcycles. They also send you LARGE bags of this stuff that absorbs moisture.

You may also want to search the net and find a natural rodent repellent to put in the bag.

Depending on where the cycle is being stored you may want to fill the tank and treat the gas with stable or other gas stabilizer. ( make sure you run the engine with the stabalizer gas so it get to the carb.) I would also put fresh oil.

If he is only going to gone for year he shouldn't have any problems.

God bless you and your son.
8 posted on 07/10/2006 5:53:16 PM PDT by 54skylark
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To: american_ranger
Sta-bil
9 posted on 07/10/2006 5:53:36 PM PDT by PeaceBeWithYou (De Oppresso Liber! (50 million and counting in Afganistan and Iraq))
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To: american_ranger

I'm no mechanic...
but I'd make a guess that after draining fluids, use some "fogging oil"
to spray down the innards of the machine.

Get to your local auto-parts store and ask them if fogging oil
(and/or something else) is the ticket.


10 posted on 07/10/2006 5:54:45 PM PDT by VOA
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To: 230FMJ; 68 grunt; absolootezer0; AdamSelene235; angry elephant; archy; baddog1; baltodog; basil; ...

Visit the FMH Swag Store & support FR!
Send FReepmail if you want on/off FMH list
The List of Ping Lists

11 posted on 07/10/2006 5:54:48 PM PDT by martin_fierro (< |:)~)
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To: american_ranger

I think the drying post is a good idea. However, if you can remove the tank, another idea is to dry the gas tank and then pour in some heavy weight oil, or liquid grease and roll the tank around to coat it. when your son gets back just rinse the tank out with gas.


12 posted on 07/10/2006 5:55:18 PM PDT by fagin (another rust solution)
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To: american_ranger

After draining gas tanks take the bike to the nearest welding shop and have them purged with nitrogen or argon, rust will not develop without oxygen.


13 posted on 07/10/2006 5:55:20 PM PDT by eastforker (Under Cover FReeper going dark(too much 24))
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To: american_ranger

here's a link to an example of the fogging oil I mentioned in post 10:
http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/fog.aspx


14 posted on 07/10/2006 5:57:10 PM PDT by VOA
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To: american_ranger
Pull the spark plugs and put a small amount of oil in the cylinders. It is best to shoot it in with a large needle syringe.
15 posted on 07/10/2006 5:57:18 PM PDT by bmwcyle (Only stupid people would vote for McCain, Warner, Hagle, Snowe, Graham, or any RINO)
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To: Tribune7

Oops sorry didnt read your post closely-
The gas thing may be a problem

Buy some "STA-BIL" brand fuel treatment. It costs just a few bucks and it'll last you for a while. Add the STABIL to the gas tank as directed and run the bike for about 3-5 minutes to be sure that the entire system is treated. Fuel treatment prevents the parts of your carbs from getting "varnished," which is a chemical coating that can clog your jets and/or mess up your air/gas mixture.


Remove the spark plugs and allow the bike to cool off for about 10 minutes. Then spray, for about 3-5 seconds, some "FOGGING OIL" (ask for it by name at your local auto parts store) into the cylinders to coat the cylinder walls. Turn the bike over for a half of a second and repeat spraying into all of the cylinders. Put the spark plugs back in. The fogging oil will coat the inside of your cylinders, as well as the pistons and piston rings, and prevent the mild oxidation that may occur over extended periods of time. It will also provide some remedial lubrication at start-up in the spring.


Disconnect the battery (negative first, then positive) and remove it. Store the battery on some cardboard or newspaper in the house somewhere out of the way. This will help the battery stay fresh.


Put the bike up on its center stand if it has one. Make sure the tires are properly inflated. Be sure that there will be no water or ice near the tires. Water can collect in the treads of the tire, and possibly freeze and expand. This will stress the rubber. If you want, put some plywood under the tires to keep them insulated from the ground. You also may want to rotate them periodically to be sure you're not creating a "soft spot" in the rubber.


Armor All the rubber stuff.


Put baggies with rubber bands over the tail pipes to keep moisture out.


A light coat of WD40 or the like on the bare metal and chromed parts may help prevent oxidation. I've never done it - I just be sure to store my bike where it isn't exposed to the elements here in Chicagoland, and it's been fine for eight years running (literally) now!


Cover it if you can. I really like the Dow Co brand of covers (I have used the "Guardian" line of covers to protect my bike in the past when I had to store it outside in the winter...please don't tell anyone I used to store my bike outside!), although I'm sure there are many that will work nicely. If it's inside, it'll keep the dust off. If it's outside, it'll keep it dry. In both cases, it will protect it from the sun's potentially harmful UV rays.


Be sure to tell it you love it at least every other week!


16 posted on 07/10/2006 5:59:01 PM PDT by 54skylark
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To: american_ranger
Cosmoline?

(I think I just gave away my age...LOL)

17 posted on 07/10/2006 5:59:18 PM PDT by patton (LGOPs = head toward the noise, kill anyone not dressed like you.)
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To: american_ranger
I got this from this site: Sentinels of Freedom Motorcycle Club

4. Extended Term Storage (240+ days to a decade) --?     assumes you will NOT be starting the bike up during that time. Please read all the way through these instructions before beginning, because you may need to obtain certain supplies before proceeding.

? ?WE ALSO RECOMMEND PRINTING THIS AND USING IT AS CHECKLIST!   Unlike normal long term storage, extended storage is for people who are parking or leaving the bike for a very long or unknown length of time (such as joining the military or storing it at an unused vacation home). The idea here isn't simply to winterize the bike, but instead to try to protect it from the ravages of time as much as possible, so when you return (or it's sold), the bike can be restored to running condition reasonably easily and with as little age-related damage as possible. Much of the bike will be encased in grease and oils, very similar to the way various armies around the world store materials for years for future war usage. This can be rather complicated a procedure, but the results of returning to a bike after it's been sitting totally neglected for months or years and getting it to start and run within a day are phenomenal -- and having it look just like it did when you left is even more impressive!

?   Remember to select your parking space somewhere where the bike is unlikely to need to be moved during your absence, where it will be free of risk from impacts (including from cars parking, as well as branches falling from trees during storms and excess snow drift build-up).

• LOCATION OF PLACEMENT:

?  If bike will be parked indoors in a semi-sealed environment (garage, den), obtain a breathable dust cover;

If bike will be parked in an out-building with a sealed cement or sealed stone floor (unheated garden shed, tool room, empty warehouse or self-store space), obtain a weatherproof bike cover.

If bike will be parked anywhere with dirt, sand, unsealed concrete, patio tile, or wood floors, or parked outdoors on any surface, obtain a weatherproof bike cover, a 25' x 10' or larger roll of construction plastic (at least 4 mils thick), 10 tubes of model aircraft glue, at least 4 bricks or cinder blocks, and 20 lbs of cat litter (cheapest type available). Place a section of the construction plastic on the ground where you intend to park the bike and cover with the cat litter; this will act as the "sealed" floor for your storage and you will park the bike on it.

?  • WATER/COOLANT/RADIATOR SYSTEMS (if your bike uses a water-based cooling system):

?(METHOD A -- for 240 days to 3 years):

?  Run a cooling system flush (an acidic product) through the cooling system as per product directions and rinse out.

Drain the coolant system totally.

Remove water pump housing/cover, and coat water pump impellers & bearings (if exposed) with automotive grease to prevent it from rusting solid. Coat interior of water pump housing and cover with automotive grease for same purpose. Reinstall water pump housing/cover.

Remove radiator hoses and overflow hoses, and bag up for storage. Permit cooling system to dry for at least 1 full day before proceeding. Smear automotive grease around both radiator openings (inside and out), and cap off with aluminum foil and rubber bands.

Smear all water passages you can reach with a light coat of automotive grease to cover exposed metal. Use a bottle brush as necessary to get further into the passages.? 

  • GENERAL ELECTRICAL, CONNECTORS:

?  Remove fairings & seat as necessary to proceed.

?  Locate electrical connectors one by one. Detach connector, spray with an electrical system cleaner and allow drying. Slather as much dielectric grease as possible into the connector, and then reattach connector. Do one connector at a time before moving on to next connector. Include all engine pigtails, all lighting circuits, all bulb retainers (blinkers, headlight), and the interior of all handlebar-mounted electrical switches (such as lo-/high-beam switch, starter switch, et cetera).

?  Reassemble bike's fairing, seats as practical at this stage. Do not store bike with fairings off (much less likely to damage your fairings if they are on the bike, and they assist the structural integrity of the bike when it gets rained/snowed on, etc).

?  • FUEL SYSTEM (OPTION A - up to 1 year storage):

?  Obtain a premium-quality fuel stabilizer (auto parts store or hardware store), and add the appropriate amount to your tank just before topping off with premium grade gasoline.

Top off the gas tank to chock-full, taking the time to burp it and wait for it to settle, then adding more. This will help prevent rust from building in your gas tank by eliminating any air which might cause condensation to form at a later time. It is recommended you do this in the spot you intend to store the bike, after the last time it runs.

Smear rubber gasket on underside of tank cap lightly with Vaseline or other brand of petroleum jelly. This will help prevent it from drying out and reduce evaporation of gas.

Set Fuel Petcock to "OFF".

Disconnect fuel lines beyond fuel petcock and drain. Drain float bowls of carburetors.

?  • FUEL SYSTEM (OPTION B - more than 12 months' storage):

?  Drain fuel tank completely. Allow to air dry in a well ventilated location for at least 48 hours.

?  Set Fuel Petcock to "OFF", remove petcock from tank.

?  Smear rubber gasket on underside of tank cap lightly with Vaseline or other brand of petroleum jelly. This will help prevent it from drying out.

?  Remove tank, ensure it is bone-dry, and place into a waxed or plastic box with a container of Damp Rid or silicate. Seal container with high-grade plastic-based packing tape (not masking tape).

?  Store tank in cool, dry place, preferably in air conditioning or desert-like conditions.

?  Disconnect fuel lines beyond fuel petcock and drain. Drain float bowls of carburetors (if your bike uses carbs).

?  Remove carburetors. Set on their side to drain in a well ventilated area. Permit to dry 1 day, then surround with brown craft paper and safety wire. Spray craft paper with long term storage oil (LPS-3, LPS-4), and store in sealed plastic bag. Cover intake manifold openings or velocity stacks with oil-soaked craft paper covered with aluminum foil and safety-wire into place.

?  Cap off fuel lines.

?  • TIRES & PARKING STANCE (OPTION A - up to 2 years):

?  Pump your tires up to the maximum pressure they are rated for according to the sidewall rating by the manufacturer (usually higher than the recommended pressure you drive on by 6 to 10 PSI or so). This will help keep the tires "round" and assist in preventing flat spots.

If present on your bike, park motorcycle on its center stand. If parking over dirt, place a board on the ground for the center stand to rest on (to spread out the weight evenly & keep it from sinking or tipping over).

?  If you have a racing stand but no center stand, park it on the racing stand.

?  If you have neither a center stand nor a racing stand, consider purchasing and installing a center stand (a god-send for many occasions), if available, OR;

?  If a center stand is not available or not practical, consider purchasing and using a racing stand, OR;

?  At minimum, build a stand out of 2x4's to support your bike's frame & rear A-arm so the rear tire is off the ground.

?  AND: Cut 2x4 chocks to support your front forks, so your front tire is 1/2" to 3/4" (1 to 2 cm) off the ground.

?  Cover entire exposed metal surface of wheel with a layer of automotive grease or petroleum jelly, or thick long-term storage spray oil, including all spokes if you have wire spoke wheels. Do not get grease/jelly/spray oil on tires.

?  GOAL: You want to get the entire cycle off the ground before long extended storage. This will prevent a lot of long-term headaches. Do not support on stones or bricks. v • TIRES & PARKING STANCE (OPTION B - up to 4 years):

?  Pump your tires up to the maximum pressure they are rated for according to the sidewall rating by the manufacturer (usually higher than the recommended pressure you drive on by 6 to 10 PSI or so). This will help keep the tires "round" and assist in preventing flat spots. If present on your bike, park motorcycle on its center stand. If parking over dirt, place a board on the ground for the center stand to rest on (to spread out the weight evenly & keep it from sinking or tipping over).

?  If you have a racing stand but no center stand, park it on the racing stand.

?  If you have neither a center stand nor a racing stand, consider purchasing and installing a center stand (a god-send for many occasions), if available, OR;

?  If a center stand is not available or not practical, consider purchasing and using a racing stand, OR;

?  At minimum, build a stand out of 2x4's to support your bike's frame, fork & rear A-arm so entire bike is off the ground.

?  AND: Cut 2x4 chocks to support your front forks, so your front end is 1/2" to 3/4" (1 to 2 cm) off the ground.

?  Remove wheels.

Store wheels & tires on their sides to prevent warp age. Build a frame to rest the wheel supports on (spokes, sprockets) instead of resting on the tire's sidewall or edge of the rim. If this is unfeasible, use option C instead. Cover entire metal surface of wheel with a layer or automotive grease or petroleum jelly, including all spokes if you have wire spoke wheels.

?  GOAL: You want to get the entire cycle off the ground before long extended storage. This will prevent a lot of long-term headaches. Do not support on stones or bricks.

• TIRES & PARKING STANCE (OPTION C - any time length, mandatory if over 4 years):

?  If present on your bike, park motorcycle on its center stand. If parking over dirt, place a board on the ground for the center stand to rest on (to spread out the weight evenly & keep it from sinking or tipping over).

?  If you have a racing stand but no center stand, park it on the racing stand.

?  If you have neither a center stand nor a racing stand, consider purchasing and installing a center stand (a god-send for many occasions), if available, OR;

?  If a center stand is not available or not practical, consider purchasing and using a racing stand, OR;

?  At minimum, build a stand out of 2x4's to support your bike's frame, fork & rear A-arm so entire bike is off the ground.

?  AND: Cut 2x4 chocks to support your front forks, so your front end is 1/2" to 3/4" (1 to 2 cm) off the ground.

?  Remove wheels.

Have tires dismounted professionally. Store tires indoors on their sides on top of a couple layers of dry craft paper. You may stack the tires. Do not store tires upright, nor hang from a support! If unable to store indoors, wrap tires with dry craft paper totally, then bag in large garbage bags and tie off. Store on flat surface on their sides (you may stack the tires).

?Alternatively, consider selling the tires (unmounted) used on eBay at this time and purchasing new rubber when the time comes...

Cover entire metal surface of wheel/mag with a layer or automotive grease or petroleum jelly, or spray long-term storage oil on it, including all spokes if you have wire spoke wheels. If storing outdoors, wrap with craft paper sprayed with long term storage oil and double-bag in large plastic bags (tie-off properly). Wheels without tires on them may be stored in any position, and can be hung from a support such as a wall-mounted hang rack.

?  GOAL: You want to get the entire cycle off the ground before long extended storage. This will prevent a lot of long-term headaches. Do not support on stones or bricks.

• BRAKES:

?  Flush brake lines completely using brand new fluid. Coat exterior of hoses with a light layer of Vaseline or other petroleum jelly to form a protective layer between the air and the lines.

?  If your bike has disk brakes (step 1): remove calipers from rotors (do not disconnect the brake lines), and remove pads from the calipers. Coat backing plate of pads with a thin layer of petroleum jelly. Store pads (face-to-face) and caliper bolts in zip-lock bag or aluminum foil, and attach to bike or wheels with plastic wire-tie or safety wire (so you can't lose them over the storage period).

?  If your bike has disk brakes (step 2): Clean exposed portions of the sides of the caliper cylinders of all dirt. Coat exposed cylinder portions with a light coating of petroleum jelly, then using an appropriate tool (such as a block of wood and a c-clamp), force the caliper cylinders back into the caliper body all the way. This will help ensure they do not get rusted or frozen in place during storage.

?Note that your brake fluid reservoir will fill up from the bottom when this is done (caliper cylinder reseating) and may spill if too full before starting.

?  If your bike has disk brakes (step 3): Coat exterior of caliper body with a layer of automotive grease or petroleum jelly. Wrap calipers in 2 to three layers of brown craft paper, wrapped by safety wire. Spray craft paper with long term storage oil (such as LPS-3 or LPS-4). Use additional safety wire to support each caliper body from the forks or frame, so it isn't hanging by the brake line hose during storage, and so the caliper is higher than the lowest point of the brake line by at least 1 inch (2.5 cm).

?  If your bike has disk brakes (step 4): Determine if your rotors are stainless steel or cast iron. Cast iron rotors will have rust on their very outer edge, and anywhere where the pads do not normally rub on the rotor face; stainless steel rotors will have no rust present anywhere. If in doubt, follow all procedures for cast iron rotors.

?  Stainless Steel Rotors: clean all oil, grime, dirt from rotor using a spray brake cleaner and toothbrush. Dry thoroughly. Coat rotors with a light layer of automotive grease. Wrap rotors in 2 to three layers of brown craft paper, wrapped by safety wire to hold it in place. Spray craft paper with long term storage oil (such as LPS-3 or LPS-4, or 20W50 or heavier motor oil).

?  Cast iron Rotors: clean all oil, grime, dirt from rotor using a spray brake cleaner and toothbrush. Use emery cloth or steel wood to lightly sand off excess (flakable) rust. Coat entire rotor (all surfaces) with a layer of automotive grease to prevent or minimize further rusting. Wrap rotors in 2 to three layers of brown craft paper, wrapped by safety wire to hold it in place. Spray craft paper with long term storage oil (such as LPS-3 or LPS-4, or 20W50 or heavier motor oil).

?  Top off your brake fluids to 100% (to the rim, not just to the manufacturer's recommended mark), to displace any air. Clean & dry any rubber gaskets for your brake fluid reservoir, then coat with a thin layer of petroleum jelly. Set in place and tighten down as usual. This will help remove possible water contamination source from the calipers and lines to ensure your calipers don't rust stuck from the inside.

?  • ENGINE (FOR EXTENDED STORAGE ONLY!):

?  Vacuum out around your spark plugs to remove any standing dirt or debris. Remove spark plugs.

?  Top off your oil to the recommended amount, plus as many quarts or liters of extra oil extra it will hold above the recommended amount (to totally cover the crank shaft in oil to help prevent rust and seizing), and enough to cover the pistons!

?  Pour oil into each cylinder to top it off.

?ONCE YOU POUR OIL INTO THE CYLINDERS, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START THE ENGINE WITHOUT REMOVING THE EXCESS OIL FIRST! OIL DOES NOT COMPRESS, AND IT COULD CAUSE YOUR PISTONS, PISTON RODS, VALVES, CRANK, CAM OR EVEN CYLINDER WALLS TO SHATTER OR BREAK!

?  Coat threads of spark plugs lightly with an anti-galling compound (anti-seize), and thread back in lightly (do not tighten down all the way).

?  Locate crankcase breather(s), if present. Remove, bag in sealed zip-lock bag, and seal opening on engine with aluminum foil and safety wire.

?  GOAL: FILL THE ENGINE BLOCK WITH AS MUCH OIL AS POSSIBLE TO REMOVE AS MUCH AIR AS POSSIBLE, AND SEAL ALL OPENINGS.

?  Insert a towel covered by a plastic bag into the air intake for the air filter. If you have separate air filters for each cylinder (example: certain K&N models), cover each filter with aluminum foil. This will help keep out bugs and rodents who will find your bike a nice dry place to live.

?  • FORKS & SPRINGS:

?  Coat fork seals and other exposed rubber suspensions seals with a light coating of Vaseline or other petroleum jelly.

?  Coat exposed fork housings & tubes with a thick slather of automotive grease or petroleum jelly.

?  Coat exposed compression tubes & springs with a slather of automotive grease or petroleum jelly.

?  • FRAME & ENGINE EXTERIOR:

?  Coat the entire frame and all exposed engine metal with a layer of automotive grease or spray long term storage oil (LPS-3, LPS-4). Include rear swing arms, seat-supporting sub frame, etc. Avoid overspray onto plastic surfaces.

?  • SEAT:

?  Remove seat.

?  If seat is leather, cover with a standing layer of mink oil. Do not wipe off excess.

?  Surround seat with a layer of craft paper (no not oil paper!). Place wrapped seat in large plastic bag and store in non-freezing location if possible. If not possible, reattach to bike while still retained in plastic bag.

?  • HANDLEBARS, CABLES AND CONTROLS:

?  Loosen all control cables & lubricate with a 5 weight motor oil or light mineral oil. Leave loose.

?  Remove grips, switches and levers. Bag in sealable zip-lock bag(s) and store.?  Cover exposed metal handlebars or bar extensions with a layer of automotive grease, including ends.

?  Coat exterior of metal brake reservoirs with light coat of Vaseline or other brand of petroleum jelly.

?  • EXHAUST:

?  Unbolt exhaust header pipes at block, smear mating portions with anti-galling compound (anti-seize), smear bolts with light coat of anti-galling compound, and reassemble to factory torque specs.

?  Coat entire exterior of header pipes and collector with a layer of automotive grease to prevent or minimize rusting.

?  Coat exhaust pipe (and muffler, if metal) with automotive grease.

?  If your exhaust pipes use retainer springs, disassemble exhaust at spring-held junction, smear mating portions with anti-galling compound (anti-seize), and reassemble to manufacturer specs. Smear springs and exterior of connection with a heavy coat of automotive grease. Use a toothpick to unblock any drain holes in exhaust system (usually at the lowest point, to drain condensation).

?  Take brown wrapping paper, soak with long term sealant oil (such as LPS-3) and cover with a layer of aluminum foil. Place over all exhaust pipe exit holes, with paper side on the inside, and hold in place with safety wire.

?  • CHAIN/SHAFT:

?  IF CHAIN DRIVE (METHOD A - up to 3 years): Clean and inspect chain. If questionable, remove and throw away, order a new one (it'll arrive before you get back to the bike). If serviceable, slather your chain with automotive grease (not a spray oil or wax, but automotive grease). Cover the chain completely with grease. Loosen chain tensioner(s) and remove all tension from chain (should hang very slack).

?  IF CHAIN DRIVE (METHOD B - over 3 years): Clean and inspect chain. If questionable, remove and throw away, order a new one (it'll arrive before you get back to the bike). Remove chain from bike. Obtain Mason jar with sealable lid, or empty spaghetti sauce jar. Insert chain and cover with motor oil to 1/2 shy of rim. Seal jar and store out of sunlight.

?  IF SHAFT DRIVE: Drain shaft drive lubricant by factory procedure and refill as full as physically possible with fresh shaft oil. Remove breather cap, inspect for wear (& order replacement if necessary). Place Breather cap in zip-lock bag; attach bag to shaft with safety wire or wire ties. Cover breather cap opening with aluminum foil to seal totally (may have to wrap around entire shaft or pumpkin to seal it up right -- we want no air movement).

?  • BATTERY:

?  Disconnect terminals from battery to motorcycle and remove battery;

?  Sand battery terminals on motorcycle with emery cloth if any corrosion or white powder is evident.

?  Coat battery terminals on motorcycle with a layer of dielectric grease or petroleum jelly (Vaseline).

?  Bring battery indoors (or to a location that will not freeze) for storage, or dispose of properly if you can't;

?  ?IF STORING FOR 12 MONTHS OR LESS, AND BATTERY IS NOT SEALED-GEL TYPE: Place on battery a wooden or plastic surface (not stone, concrete nor steel -- a wooden board on the floor will do, but a wooden shelf or wooden work bench is better) in a ventilated area away from any source of sparks (i.e. - do not store next to a furnace or propane dryer, etc). Remove caps from battery cells, place in bag and tape to exterior of battery. Fill each cell to upper mark with distilled water. Do not use filtered or tap water!

Connect a motorcycle trickle charger (2 Amp or less) to the terminals and plug into the wall.

Cover battery's top surface with wax paper or a sheet of thick plastic, but not tightly (cover should sit atop the battery, not seal/wrap it up). This will help prevent dirt & dust from entering and the electrolyte from splattering. Top off low cells every two to three months. If any cell goes totally dry, dispose of battery and buy new one when removing motorcycle from storage.

?  ?IF STORING FOR 12 MONTHS OR LESS, AND BATTERY IS SEALED-GEL TYPE: Place on battery a wooden or plastic surface (not stone, concrete nor steel -- a wooden board on the floor will do, but a wooden shelf or wooden work bench is better) in a ventilated area away from any source of sparks (i.e. - do not store next to a furnace or propane dryer, etc).

Connect a motorcycle trickle charger (2 Amp or less) to the terminals and plug into the wall.

? ?IF STORING FOR MORE THAN 12 MONTHS AND BATTERY IS ANY TYPE: Place on battery into a plastic bag and tie off. Place plastic bag with battery upright on a wooden or solid plastic surface (not stone, concrete nor steel -- a wooden board on the floor will do, but a wooden or plastic shelf or wooden work bench is better).

?NOTE: Battery will require charging when returning and may not hold a charge at that time. It's a long time for a battery to wait, but it's too long for it to be connected to a trickle charger without someone topping off the electrolyte with distilled water regularly. Consider disposing of the battery properly and buying a replacement when you're ready to un-store the bike.

?  • COVER BIKE UP:

?  If the bike will be parked indoors, such as in a garage or other semi-heated location, get a breathable dust cover, and cover bike.

?  If the bike will be stored in an outbuilding (such as a garden shed) over sealed concrete, get a waterproof bike cover and a sheet or roll of construction plastic, 4 mils or thicker (any hardware store). Cover bike with waterproof cover, then cover that with the sheet of construction plastic. Weight down the edges of the construction plastic with bricks, stones or other heavy items. Pour cat litter around edge of plastic sheeting to form intermediate barrier. Placing one container of Damp Rid under the plastic sheeting for each year bike will be in storage (double that for high humidity locations).

?  If the bike will be stored outdoors over concrete, or anywhere parking over dirt, sand, grass, wood or anything other than sealed concrete, place plastic sheet on floor where you intend to park bike. Spread cat litter over plastic. Move bike over sheet and park. Placing two containers of Damp Rid under the plastic sheeting for each year bike will be in storage (double that for high humidity locations). Cover bike with waterproof cover, and then cover that with another sheet of construction plastic. Using plastic cement (the type you use for model airplanes), glue the plastic sheet over the bike to the plastic sheet under the bike, about 6" in from edges all around the bike (try to form an air-tight seal). Roll over the edges where the upper & lower sheets meet, and Staple edges of under-sheet to edges over over-sheet. Weight down the edges of the construction plastic with bricks, stones or other heavy items. Pour cat litter around edge of plastic sheeting to form intermediate barrier.

?  ?  4B: WHEN YOU ARE READY TO REMOVE IT FROM THIS FORM OF EXTENDED STORAGE:

Purchase or obtain in advance:

a gas can (empty, at least as big as your tank's capacity)

a bottle of Techron pour-in fuel injector cleaner

a new oil filter

three to five quarts (whatever amount your bike takes) of fresh motorcycle motor oil (preferably oil high in anti-galling compounds)

a fresh set of spark plugs

a can of Quick Start or other starting spray containing a lubricant and an ether (WD-40 will do in a pinch)

some distilled water (at least a gallon if your bike uses coolant, less if it doesn't)

a gallon water-rinsable chemical degreaser (Sludge-Away), or a couple big bottles liquid dish detergent

half dozen rolls of paper towels and a number of couple shop rags a bottle of the appropriately rated brake fluid

a large can of spray brake cleaner

If your bike has a radiator: professional-grade cooling system flush

If your bike has a radiator: manufacturer recommended coolant

If your bike has a radiator: another couple gallon of distilled water

THEN FOLLOW THESE STEPS

?(PREFERABLY IN ORDER FOR YOUR SAFETY):

If stored under or in plastic sheeting, remove the upper plastic sheeting carefully.

?  If Damp Rid was used, remove the Damp Rid containers and pour out water, then discard.

?  Remove the bike's cover(s);

?  Inspect under the bike for any leakages of any sort -- address them as necessary before proceeding;

?  IF CHAIN DRIVEN AND CHAIN IS STILL ON: Clean chain of grease and lube as normal. Inspect chain and sprockets, replace as necessary. Retention chain to manufacturer's specification.

?  IF CHAIN DRIVEN AND CHAIN IS OFF: Remove chain from oil and dry. Inspect chain and sprockets, replace as necessary. Reinstall chain. Retention chain to manufacturer's specification.

?  IF SHAFT DRIVEN: Remove protective aluminum foil cover from over breather hole. Flush shaft oil as per manufacturer instructions, replacing entire contents with recommended type to the recommended level. Inspect breather and replace if necessary (replace foam if necessary). Reinstall breather.

?  Inspect tires for dry rot or other hazards. Replace as necessary.

?  Clean wheels, mags and rims and brake rotors of all excess grease.

?  If tires are not mounted on wheels/mags/rims, have them professionally mounted at this time before proceeding.

?  If tires are still mounted, remove the excess air pressure from your tires, returning to the motorcycle manufacturer's recommended levels.

?  Wipe away excess automotive grease with paper towels from any surface it is present on (frame, calipers, handle bars, engine block, chains, wheels, etc);

?  Reinstall wheels on bike if they had been dismounted previously.

?  Remove chock blocks from under front forks;

?  Remove and set aside all fairing pieces, and seat if present, at this time.?  Wash away excess automotive grease and excess Vaseline or other brand of petroleum jelly with a water-rinsable degreaser (recommended for this application) or dish detergent from any surface it is present on (grips, forks, springs, rotors, handle bars, exhaust pipes & headers, frame, etc). Use a toothbrush on brake rotors, if present, to wash all grease out of any cross-drilled holes or slots.

?** Avoid getting degreaser on your paint or into your electrical system connectors.

?** AVOID SPRAYING WATER UNDER PRESSURE INTO YOUR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM, CONNECTORS AND SWITCHES.

?** MAKE SURE ALL GREASE IS OFF ROTORS AND BRAKES, INCLUDING IN ANY CROSS-DRILLED HOLES OR SLOTS IN THE ROTORS!

?  FUEL & FUEL LINES - IF TANK WAS STORED EMPTY:

?  Inspect tank for rust. If present, follow this procedure before continuing: HYPERLINK "http://www.cyberpoet.net/motorcycle/how_to/mc_tankrust.html" How to deal with rust in your gas tank.

Replace fuel filter(s) at this time with new ones.

Examine fuel lines for wear, aging, brittleness. Replace as necessary.

Reinstall fuel petcock with new o-ring.

Reattach fuel lines, but not tank yet (to get at plugs, carbs).

?  FUEL & FUEL LINES - IF TANK CONTAINS GASOLINE (MORE THAN 12 MONTHS):

?  Remove fuel petcock from bike and drain tank into gas can. Do not make contents pass through fuel petcock!

?  With tank empty, inspect tank for rust. If present, follow this procedure before continuing: HYPERLINK "http://www.cyberpoet.net/motorcycle/how_to/mc_tankrust.html" How to deal with rust in your gas tank. Take old away for proper disposal (gas station, service station).

?Do not reuse the old gas in the motorcycle!

Replace fuel filter(s) at this time with new ones.

Examine fuel lines for wear, aging, brittleness. Replace as necessary.

Reinstall fuel petcock with new o-ring.

Reattach fuel lines, but not tank yet (to get at plugs, carbs).

?  FUEL & FUEL LINES - IF TANK CONTAINS GASOLINE (LESS THAN 12 MONTHS):

?  Remove fuel petcock from bike and drain tank into gas can. Do not make contents pass through fuel petcock!

?  With tank empty, inspect tank for rust. If present, follow this procedure before continuing: HYPERLINK "http://www.cyberpoet.net/motorcycle/how_to/mc_tankrust.html" How to deal with rust in your gas tank.

Examine old gas. If rust, water, or contamination is present, take away for disposal. If gas appears visually good, consider reuse in a car, lawn mower or other vehicle, or place in a different storage container for the time being.?Do not reuse the old gas in the motorcycle!

Replace fuel filter(s) at this time with new ones.

Examine fuel lines for wear, aging, brittleness. Replace as necessary.

Reinstall fuel petcock with new o-ring.

Reattach fuel lines, but not tank yet (to get at plugs, carbs).

?  ENGINE OIL:

Remove spark plugs.

Uncap/uncover engine breather.

Drain the motor oil, allowing to drain for at least 1 full hour (overnight is better). If oil cooler is present, disconnect oil cooler lines at lowest point when draining.

Use a suction pump or syringe (without needle) to pump out any motor oil present in each cylinder (there may be none, if it leaked down to the main galley over the months & years).

?GET ALL MOTOR OIL OUT OF THE CYLINDERS BEFORE PROCEEDING. ANY SIGNIFICANT AMOUNT OF MOTOR OIL IN THE CYLINDERS CAN CAUSE SERIOUS ENGINE DAMAGE WHEN ENGINE IS TURNED OVER (BY HAND OR OTHERWISE).

Change oil filter, and replace oil with fresh motorcycle motor oil to the level recommended by the manufacturer.

?We recommend using motor oil high in anti-galling compounds at this point, such as Kendall or Amsol motor oils. Anti-galling compounds help prevent seizing, an issue that can occur with a bike just coming out of storage. We also recommend using the lightest weight motor oil your manufacturer recommends at this point (i.e. - if you can use 10W40 and 20W50, use 10W40).

?Do not use the motor oil you stored the bike with, because it has built up acids and its viscosity is now insufficient to provide adequate start-up lubrication. Depending on the environment, it may also have water in it from condensation!

?  IF BIKE USES COOLANT, AND SYSTEM WAS STORED DRY/EMPTY: Disassemble water pump housing/cover and remove excess grease with paper towels. Do not wash with degreaser!

If feasible by design, turn water pump impellers by hand to ensure free operation.

Reassemble water pump housing/cover.

Remove excess grease from water passages with paper towels. Do not wash with degreaser! v Examine radiator hoses for condition, replace if necessary.

Uncap ends of radiator and wipe away excess grease with paper towels. Be thorough.

Rinse out radiator and coolant passages with warm water liberally to help remove extra grease.

Reinstall radiator hoses.

Reinstall over-flow tank and hoses.

Fill cooling system with cooling system flush (an acid product) and distilled water (not with coolant at this stage!)

?REMEMBER THAT MOST MOTORCYCLE COOLING SYSTEMS ARE SMALLER THAN CARS, SO YOU MAY NEED TO USE LESS COOLING SYSTEM FLUSH.v  ?  IF BIKE USES COOLANT, AND SYSTEM WAS STORED IN OIL FILLED STATE:

Remove radiator hoses, radiator cap if present, and drain oil from cooling system at lowest point.

Disassemble water pump housing/cover and allow excess oil to drain. Do not wash with degreaser!

If feasible by design, turn water pump impellers by hand to ensure free operation.

Reinstall over-flow tank and hoses.

Rinse out radiator and coolant passages with water liberally to help remove extra oil; allow dripping dry.

Reassemble water pump housing/cover.

Examine radiator hoses for condition (both inside and out), replace if necessary.

Reinstall radiator hoses.

Fill cooling system with cooling system flush (an acid product) and distilled water (not with coolant at this stage!)

?REMEMBER THAT MOST MOTORCYCLE COOLING SYSTEMS ARE SMALLER THAN CARS, SO YOU MAY NEED TO USE LESS COOLING SYSTEM FLUSH. 

?  BRAKES:

Examine brake lines for cracks, aging, and replace as necessary. Examine brake pads, shoes for wear, and replace as necessary. Ensuring all possible grease was removed from any rotors (if present), spray brake rotors & calipers liberally with spray brake cleaner to remove grease. Examine rotors for wear, and replace or have resurfaced as necessary. Reinstall pads and calipers (if present).

Flush your brake system completely with new fluid (under pressure) and set fluid level back to the manufacturers recommended levels. Do not permit fluid in the brake fluid reservoir to run dry at any point during the flush!

?  IF YOUR BIKE USES CARBURETORS AND THEY WERE REMOVED FOR STORAGE:

Get out carburetors from storage, remove from bags & wrappings Spray liberally with spray carburetor cleaner

Ensure all seals are good and that carb linkages work without hesitation -- rebuild carburetors if in doubt.

Reinstall carburetors.

?  IF YOUR BIKE USES CARBURETORS AND THEY WERE LEFT IN PLACE:

Unwrap carburetors. v Spray liberally with spray carburetors cleaner

Ensure all seals are good and that carb linkages work without hesitation -- rebuild carburetors if in doubt.

?  IF YOUR BIKE USES INJECTORS AND WAS STORED OVER 12 MONTHS:

Remove injectors via manufacturer's procedure.

Soak injectors in liquid injector/fuel system cleaner overnight on their sides in a sealed container. Lay them in carefully -- do not drop them in! If an ultrasonic bath cleaner is available, clean in an ultrasonic bath in liquid injector/fuel-system cleaner for 1 hour as well.

?NOTE: Some ultrasonic cleaners get hot when working. If yours gets hot, do not use it in conjunction with flammable liquids like inject/fuel system cleaner! Skip this step!

Test injectors for proper spray pattern by manufacturer approved method. If questionable, replace.

Reinstall injectors via manufacturer's procedure.

?  Remove barriers or covers from air filter(s)/air filter housing(s).

?  Examine air filter(s) for condition, replace as necessary.? 

Examine and tighten rubber air passage boots as necessary. If cracked or brittle, replace.

?  Examine front fork tubes. Service/replace as necessary.

?  Replace/flush fork oil and replace fork seals as per manufacturer's procedure.v?  Remove barriers or covers from exhaust/muffler(s).

?  BATTERY: IF BATTERY IS ATTACHED TO TRICKLE CHARGER AND NOT SEALED/GEL-TYPE:

  Unplug trickle charger at wall, and disconnect from battery. Examine battery case. If case is cracked, replace battery. Examine battery cells. If any cell has white powder visible within it, or if any cell is at less than 25% volume, replace battery. If battery passes both examinations, top off any battery cells requiring fluid with distilled water (and only distilled water!) to the full mark, and recap. Reinstall battery into motorcycle. ?  BATTERY: IF BATTERY IS ATTACHED TO TRICKLE CHARGER AND IS SEALED/GEL-TYPE:

?  Unplug trickle charger at wall, and disconnect from battery. Examine battery case. If case is cracked, replace battery. Reinstall battery into motorcycle. Know that battery may not be good even if hooked to charger for whole duration of storage. ?  BATTERY: IF BATTERY STORED IN BAG ON SHELF AND IS NOT SEALED/GEL TYPE:

?  Examine battery case. If case is cracked, replace battery. Examine battery cells. If any cell has white powder visible within it, or if any cell is at less than 25% volume, replace battery. If battery passes both examinations, top off any battery cells requiring fluid with distilled water (and only distilled water!) to the full mark. Leave caps off. Connect low power battery charger (2 Amp or less) or trickle charger (2 Amp or less). Charge for 12 hours, rechecking the fluids every couple hours and topping off with distilled water as necessary.?DO NOT CONNECT BATTERY TO ANY CHARGER WITH OVER 2-AMP RATING, AS EXPLOSION MAY OCCUR. DO NOT USE A TRADITIONAL AUTOMOTIVE BATTERY CHARGER UNLESS IT HAS A 2-AMP OR LOWER TRICKLE CHARGER SETTING! Cover top with a layer of wax paper to prevent any spillage while charging. Disconnect battery charger after 12-24 hours. Check battery with volt meter after charging period. Voltage should be 12.8 volts or higher between the poles (13.8 ideal). If voltage is under 12.6 volts, replace battery. Reinstall battery into motorcycle. ?  BATTERY: IF BATTERY STORED IN BAG ON SHELF AND IS SEALED/GEL TYPE:

?  Examine battery case. If case is cracked, replace battery. Connect low power battery charger (2 Amp or less) or trickle charger (2 Amp or less). Charge for 12 hours. ?DO NOT CONNECT BATTERY TO ANY CHARGER WITH OVER 2-AMP RATING, AS EXPLOSION MAY OCCUR. DO NOT USE A TRADITIONAL AUTOMOTIVE BATTERY CHARGER UNLESS IT HAS A 2-AMP OR LOWER TRICKLE CHARGER SETTING! Disconnect battery charger after 12-24 hours. Check battery with volt meter after charging period. Voltage should be 12.8 volts or higher between the poles (13.8 ideal). If voltage is under 12.6 volts, replace battery. Reinstall battery into motorcycle. Spray all keyholes (ignition, seat lock, helmet locks) with graphite lock spray. Lube control cables (throttle, choke, clutch, etc) with a light oil, and check for free operation. Replace if necessary. Reattach all handlebar-mounted devices (switches, levers, grips, throttle, etc). Adjust all control cables for correct operation (throttle, choke, clutch, etc). ? 

18 posted on 07/10/2006 6:02:45 PM PDT by Tribune7
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To: 54skylark

Yeah, sure, thanks pal...
I walked into the store and said, "Hey, how about some FOGGING OIL over here".

The vision has partially returned in my right eye....

(c8


19 posted on 07/10/2006 6:03:59 PM PDT by NonLinear (He's dead, Jim)
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To: american_ranger
Send him this link.  It is a complete checklist for storing a bike over any period.

http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/motorcycle/how_to/mc_storage.html

 

 

20 posted on 07/10/2006 6:06:37 PM PDT by HawaiianGecko (Timing has a lot to do with the outcome of a rain dance.)
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