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PLUMBING QUESTION - Changing a WATER PRESSURE REDUCER in my townhouse (Handymen/women welcome!...)

Posted on 12/12/2005 10:14:10 AM PST by ElPatriota

Hi all,

All of the sudden when I was taking a shower, the pressure just increased at least by a factor or 2X... too strong!...I had to reduce the pressure from the shower head. Anyway, the water company came to check and found the pressure (78 lbs) which is normal so they said to check the "Water Pressure Reducer." (about $50.00) it seems this is what it is, although I can never be sure until a plumber looks at it. I already found out it costs $250.00. Not a lot but still....

On the surface it does not seem like replacing it is a very difficult job to do... the thing is, I am not a plumber! Does anyone know how easy/difficult is to do this?

QUESTION 2: Anyone knows of other forums on the web, with lots of people to ask questions of ? it used to be that USENET had it all... but everything has changed nowadays.

TIA


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KEYWORDS: help; homeimprovement; plumbing
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To: ElPatriota
Measure the inside diameter of the supply pipe leading out of the wall to the shower head.


Get about half a dozen five cent metal washer with the correct outside diameter but varying hole diameters. Install one between shower head and supply pipe.

Still too much pressure, go to smaller hole. Too little pressure, go to larger hole.

Actually, it's best to get used the the high pressure. It's great in the morning.
41 posted on 12/12/2005 11:19:05 AM PST by MindBender26 (Having my own CAR-15 in RVN meant never having to say I was sorry......)
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To: MindBender26
Also, 80 PSI is fine. Should be no trouble with appliances.
42 posted on 12/12/2005 11:20:57 AM PST by MindBender26 (Having my own CAR-15 in RVN meant never having to say I was sorry......)
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To: ElPatriota

Poppycock.

You only then need to know a couple things...(Like shutting off the main, and opening the high/lowest faucets...getting the correct pipe/fitting sizes)


and how to sweat pipe...

http://www.hometime.com/Howto/projects/plumbing/plum_3.htm


43 posted on 12/12/2005 11:29:31 AM PST by hobbes1 (Hobbes1TheOmniscient® "I know everything so you dont have to...." ;)
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To: ElPatriota

Before you do anything, find the shutoff valve between the street line and the regulator. If you don't have, or can't find the shutoff, you'll probably need a plumber or water dept worker with a street key to shut off the water at the curb box (the metal thing in the front yard that says "water" on it, if it says "gas" it's not the right one)

Look at the regulator too see if it has large hex nuts on each side at the water line. If so, you need a pipe wrench (maybe two) to disconnect it and pipe dope to reseal them.

If it's a soldered joint, you'll need to drain the lines to let most of the water out, otherwise it will take roughly forever to heat the pipe enough to melt the solder. To resolder the joints it is essential that they be CLEAN, use a piece of steel wool to clean inside and outside of the new joint until shiny. Make sure you have the right solder and flux paste (which ever type the solder requires, if any)
A clean joint with proper solder and flux will pull the solder in and around the joint when hot enough.

CAUTION: You need to use a torch to do this work. If the line is near anything flammable, i.e. wood studs, stored fuel, remove it if possible. If the line is near wooden walls be aware that wood burns quite easily after being dried for years, and jobs like this are the start of many house fires. Get a professional if you have any doubts. At the very least, have some one else watching with a hose or extinguisher, a propane or acetylene torch can ignite material surprisingly far away from the visible flame. When you are concentrating on a solder joint, you may not notice the fire you just started a foot or to away until it's too late. A bucket of water with a couple rags is good to have available to cool things down or put out minor fires.

Heat the pipe with a torch, a soldering gun will not work. Heat the pipe, not the solder. Touch the solder aginst the pipe as it heats, and feed it around the joint as it melts.

If any of this seems too complicated, it's probably better and maybe overall cheaper, to get a professional, or at least an experienced amateur.


44 posted on 12/12/2005 11:41:35 AM PST by E.Allen
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To: ElPatriota

If you townhome has a Homeowners Assn. they will cover it. Ours was just replaced a few months ago. If you don't have a HOA you will need a plumber. Check your friends for a referral who might give you a free or reduced fee estimate. Don't let this go on too long. Last thing you want it a busted pipe.


45 posted on 12/12/2005 11:47:06 AM PST by IllumiNaughtyByNature (If Islam is the Religion of Peace, they should FIRE their PR guy!)
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To: ElPatriota
Well, I do own a hardware store. Just looked at a pressure reducer ($33.99). They are factory set at 45, but will adjust up to 70. You may try adjusting the one you already have.

You shouldn't have to do any soldering as they are threaded. Most of them should come with a union to allow for easy removal and replacement.

46 posted on 12/12/2005 11:49:07 AM PST by NeonKnight
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To: Mad Dawgg

...And payday is Friday!


47 posted on 12/12/2005 11:51:03 AM PST by Dubh_Ghlase ("Every man dies, but not every man truly lives...." Braveheart)
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To: ElPatriota

We didn't replace the water pressure reducer and it damaged a hot water heater that was only a couple of months old, so......

Then this hammering started that sounded like all the plumbing in the house was going to bang itself to pieces. In the garage you could see the plumbing physically moving back and forth.

I do not claim any knowledge on the subject, but being without one cost us far more than replacing one.


48 posted on 12/12/2005 11:51:50 AM PST by Roses0508 (Democracy does not guarantee equality of conditions - it only guarantees equality of opportunity.)
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To: Roses0508

Yes!... that is what I am afraid of!... :)... although my house and everything in it is already 15 years old, including the water-HEATER, and probably not maintained very well. (house was rented for a long time) and so I have this feeling one of these days I might find a pool water in my basement.... oh...another worry. :). The thing is how can one check the level of rust or decay inside a water-heater?.... :)


49 posted on 12/12/2005 11:59:53 AM PST by ElPatriota (Let's not forget we are all still friends despite our differences :))
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To: flada
with the shower head set on massage, I may never again get out of the shower.

Well, luckily for all of us, eventually we run out of hot water and have to go back to real life :~D

50 posted on 12/12/2005 12:02:40 PM PST by HairOfTheDog (Join the Hobbit Hole Troop Support - http://freeper.the-hobbit-hole.net/ 1,000 knives and counting!)
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To: ElPatriota
but at those rates, who can afford them? -

You afford them because you only call them every 15 years. ;~D

They're cheaper than water damage.

51 posted on 12/12/2005 12:05:05 PM PST by HairOfTheDog (Join the Hobbit Hole Troop Support - http://freeper.the-hobbit-hole.net/ 1,000 knives and counting!)
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To: ElPatriota
A pressure reducing valve will cause about a one third reduction of water utilization in your household.

I don't know anything about plumbing, but I stayed in a Holiday Inn Express last night.

52 posted on 12/12/2005 12:05:24 PM PST by SC DOC
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To: ElPatriota

Before you change the PRV..

Most of them are adjustable. If one side is 'bell' shaped, there is likely a screw in the top with a locknut. Loosen the locknut and loosen the screw about 1 turn. Test and retry.

Another point. On the opposite side of the PRV you might see a large nut which doubles as the bottom of the valve. There is usually a screen inside that catches debris in the water. Shut off the main water valve, remove the nut ( probably larger than 1" ) and remove and clean the screen.


53 posted on 12/12/2005 12:07:03 PM PST by Vinnie
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To: NeonKnight
Well, I do own a hardware store. Just looked at a pressure reducer ($33.99). They are factory set at 45, but will adjust up to 70. You may try adjusting the one you already have. You shouldn't have to do any soldering as they are threaded. Most of them should come with a union to allow for easy removal and replacement...

Here I will show you if I can publish this PIcs

pictures

http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1113/981/1600/Water%20Reducer.jpg --- (this is the current WPR)

http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1113/981/1600/Tag%20on%20Regulator.jpg --- (this is info on it.)

http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1113/981/1600/New%20N35%20B%20Water%20Reducer.jpg --- (And this is the new unit to replace it. Same brand,updated model)

54 posted on 12/12/2005 12:07:20 PM PST by ElPatriota (Let's not forget we are all still friends despite our differences :))
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To: evets

Hi, how can publish an "active link" for a picture?... what are that tags for it? - Thanks


55 posted on 12/12/2005 12:08:30 PM PST by ElPatriota (Let's not forget we are all still friends despite our differences :))
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To: hobbes1

How can I publis a link (for a picture)? just like the one you just put in this post? - Thansk


56 posted on 12/12/2005 12:10:07 PM PST by ElPatriota (Let's not forget we are all still friends despite our differences :))
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To: ElPatriota

If I were you, I'd cough up the $250.00 to have a plumber do it. I had a clogged toilet a copule of days ago, tried to run a snake down it (looks simple), and discovered I couldn't. A licensed plumber cleared it in about five minutes. Many years ago I had a BMW motorcycle and tried to do some apparently minor work on it. Every time I discovered how inept I was. The local BMW dealership discovered that my "money saving" do it myslef projects were a gold mine for them.


57 posted on 12/12/2005 12:12:05 PM PST by libstripper
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To: HairOfTheDog
luckily for all of us, eventually we run out of hot water and have to go back to real life :~D

Well you can get infinite hot water from those newer demand style water heaters that don't have a water tank..they put out hot water as long as you pay your gas(or electric) and water bills.

58 posted on 12/12/2005 12:12:13 PM PST by rolling_stone (Question Authority!)
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To: ElPatriota

You are lucky. Your unit has a union. Should be a piece of cake, but you may still try turning that screw on top...that is the adjustment.


59 posted on 12/12/2005 12:16:45 PM PST by NeonKnight (Republican Death Machine)
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To: ElPatriota

60 posted on 12/12/2005 12:17:51 PM PST by NeonKnight (Republican Death Machine)
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