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Seriously, would sincerely appreciate any advice specific to the Mini. I've changed a clutch before, but never worked on these and it looks "rather compact" under the hood.

Thanks,
Lloyd

1 posted on 07/24/2005 5:58:48 AM PDT by Lloyd227
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To: Lloyd227

I don't think it is a misuse-you see these types of requests on occasion.

I hope they make changing the clutch easier than it was in my old MG Midget...:(

That was a frigging nightmare.


2 posted on 07/24/2005 6:01:39 AM PDT by rlmorel ("Innocence seldom utters outraged shrieks. Guilt does." Whittaker Chambers)
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To: Lloyd227

Ask on a Mini forum?

http://www.mini2.com/forum/


3 posted on 07/24/2005 6:02:29 AM PDT by FreedomPoster (This space intentionally blank) (NRA)
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To: Lloyd227

Check out this site: http://www.roadfly.com/

The forums for my old BMW have been great.. They have one for the Mini..

t


4 posted on 07/24/2005 6:03:11 AM PDT by tje
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To: Lloyd227
I think McDonald's is giving Mini clutches out in their next Happy Meals.

Just kidding...don't get mad...;)

5 posted on 07/24/2005 6:04:45 AM PDT by small voice in the wilderness (Quick, act casual. If they sense scorn and ridicule, they'll flee..)
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To: Lloyd227

After driving on the freeway in a mini-cooper, I would think one might need to change their underwear before they need to change their clutch.


6 posted on 07/24/2005 6:05:27 AM PDT by Larry Lucido
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To: Lloyd227

I can't speak to the mechanical specifics, but the symptoms you describe sound more like the release arm is bound up than a collapsed diaphragm.


7 posted on 07/24/2005 6:08:22 AM PDT by tacticalogic (Say goodnight, Grace.)
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To: Lloyd227
If you don't get a good answer here. you might try doing a google newsgroup search.
9 posted on 07/24/2005 6:12:41 AM PDT by John Jorsett (scam never sleeps)
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To: Lloyd227
At any rate, the car has 55,000 miles so it's out of warranty

Out of warranty - already?

10 posted on 07/24/2005 6:15:20 AM PDT by Bear_Slayer (DOC - 81mm Mortars, Wpns Co. 2/3 KMCAS 86-89)
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To: Lloyd227
I think tacticalogic may be on the right track. It sounds more like a linkage problem of some sort. I'm assuming that this is a hydraulic clutch like most are lately. If so, a bad piston seal at either end could have similar symptoms.
13 posted on 07/24/2005 6:22:07 AM PDT by CrazyIvan (If you read only one book this year, read "Stolen Valor".)
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To: Lloyd227

I have a question: Are the Coopers American or British? I love antique cars and am always interested in learning about them. Thanks in advance.


18 posted on 07/24/2005 6:27:27 AM PDT by proudofthesouth (Boycotting movies since 1988)
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To: Lloyd227

Front derailer or the rear one?


31 posted on 07/24/2005 6:41:01 AM PDT by Sparky1776
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To: Lloyd227

I had a Mini back in 1960 , I loved the car, but couldnt keep it together. I saw a lot of them racing and had to have one, then wondered how the hell they could keep them going long enough to race. Maybe Americans are tougher on cars than Brits. It sure would kick hell out of small block Chevys of the time though.


35 posted on 07/24/2005 7:01:41 AM PDT by sgtbono2002
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To: Lloyd227

"So, I'm guessing that the pressure plate has collapsed and is making no attempt to engage the disk "
more likley at 55k the friction disk has worn out , yea they should last close to 100K .They tend not to especially on " fun to drive cars"
As a grown man I am capable of making one go away in only a few hundred miles :)


a derailer is that little thingy (obscure technical term warning) that moves a bicycle chain to the next sprocket.


37 posted on 07/24/2005 7:15:24 AM PDT by grjr21
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To: Lloyd227
I do not own a mini but some questions have to be asked when car fails to proceed.

1. With engine running, can you put it in gear using clutch?

If yes and there is a grinding/whirling noise when clutch released, then stripped input shaft, clutch center broken off, stripped axle on one side.

If yes and no noise and it had been slipping before you failed to proceed, then worn clutch. If not slipping then a broken pressure plate. Some newer pressure plates designs use a pull instead of a push (release bearing attached to pressure plate). Check the manual.

2. If no to the above, can you put it in gear when not running and it will jump forward when hitting the starter (brake off) with the clutch pedal fully depressed? Symptom of clutch not releasing, then clutch liner broken and jammed, pressure plate arms bent, release arm broken or bent, slave/master cylinder bad or not bled. Sometimes, the slave looks like it is moving, but it is only taking up the slack before release bearing applies force. Try bleeding system first.

3. Any sort of grinding noise, bang, or thump associated at time of failure to proceed? If yes, sounds like trans problem, broken clutch disk if not a stripped axle.

As with most FWD transverse units, the whole package has to come out unless there is room to move the trans sideways from the engine to access the clutch and pressure plate(VW rabbit for example). Many manuals will call for total removal when room does exist for the trans to be moved sideways in the car. Wife's Alfa 164S is an example (horrible job, hope to sell it before it needs another one) as the factory manual called for total removal yet was able to do it in the car by moving the trans into the wheel well. You will have to make that determination. It depends on the wheel well design on the trans side to see if the box can move into that space. Bentley manuals are usually written by owners and tech writers that don't know all the shortcuts. Old Haynes manuals were the best when two-by-fours were a common tool (newer ones suck).
42 posted on 07/24/2005 8:17:15 AM PDT by Traction
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To: Lloyd227
Get one of these...

And you can use the Mini Cooper as an air freshner! ;-)
43 posted on 07/24/2005 8:26:16 AM PDT by LongElegantLegs ("Se habla, MoFo!")
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To: Lloyd227

The last time this happened to me it was the transmission shaft.

94 Ford Ranger with about 98K miles.


48 posted on 07/24/2005 8:03:43 PM PDT by chaosagent (Remember, no matter how you slice it, forbidden fruit still tastes the sweetest!)
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