Posted on 10/15/2015 7:27:38 AM PDT by w1n1
Hunting with muzzleloaders is popular enough that most states have special or separate seasons for hunters using them. The rules for those seasons vary, so if you are setting up a hunt, even near home, do a little homework to see which guns, calibers, sights and styles of ignition are favored during those times.
In my home state of Washington, the ignition must be exposed, which means an in-line rifle that has an enclosed percussion nipple and cap are not allowed. Also, Washington does not allow scopes on muzzleloaders when used during the muzzleloading seasons. Scoped muzzleloaders can only be used during modern-rifle seasons because they are using modern sights. Washington also has a minimum bore size of .40 caliber for deer and .50 caliber for elk.
My personal choices for muzzleloaders and smoothbores are the old-looking percussions and flintlocks that follow traditional styling. Others may favor the newer in-line rifles, which are often shorter and lighter, as well as easier to carry. I won’t argue with that. What I will say is whichever style of rifle or smoothbore you prefer, do a few things to get that gun ready before heading out on the hunt, even before sighting it in.
I’m going to be very basic about this because one year, during a muzzleloading season, we saw a new hunter beside his car trying to load a brand-new in-line rifle. The box that the gun came in was on the hood of the car, and his friends were trying to help by reading the printed instructions out loud. I don’t know how things went for that group, but in my opinion, that wasn’t the best way to start.
My personal choices for muzzleloaders and smoothbores are the old-looking percussions and flintlocks that follow traditional styling. Others may favor the newer in-line rifles, which are often shorter and lighter, as well as easier to carry. I won’t argue with that. What I will say is whichever style of rifle or smoothbore you prefer, do a few things to get that gun ready before heading out on the hunt, even before sighting it in.
I’m going to be very basic about this because one year, during a muzzleloading season, we saw a new hunter beside his car trying to load a brand-new in-line rifle. The box that the gun came in was on the hood of the car, and his friends were trying to help by reading the printed instructions out loud. I don’t know how things went for that group, but in my opinion, that wasn’t the best way to start.
Before taking that first shot, you should be well equipped with all of the extras you will need. Yes, powder, patches and balls or elongated bullets, plus flints or percussion caps fall into that basket, but that’s simply the ammunition, and those things are usually, I hope, already established. Some things that are often not considered are cleaning patches, black-powder solvents, and a cleaning rod or jag for the ramrod. While those things are often not given the priority they deserve, they are actually the things that are needed first. The reason is that almost any new rifle will come with oils in the barrel and in the breech of the gun. Read the rest of the muzzle loader story here.
My daughter and I both got to fire a muzzle load rifle a couple of weekends ago. Dang … that was cool!!!! I might have to get one of those.
That is a hobby I would like to get into. Balckpowdermatters.
You see that and drive straight away to another site pronto...
Hunt whitetails in Illinois with a .54 Hawkins replica with a double set trigger. Use the traditional patch and ball. Love it.
Thompson Renegade flint in .50 here. Hornady 385 grain HP maxi for short distance. Hornady XTP out to 100 yard.
The REASON for the ‘old style’ ignition systems for percussion guns is ACCESS to the firing system. Everything is right there at your fingertips if there is a problem. 90% of all misfire problems are a failure to clear the percussion/nipple passageways of grease and crud.
At least you cannot ‘modernize’ a flintlock, thankfully.
I roll my own. .54 cal. 42” Longhammock barrel, Siler flintlock, single trigger,’German’ silver front sight and iron furniture for a pre-revolutionary era look.
90 grains of FFg knocks ‘em FLAT at 100+ yards or so.
That’s a looong shot around here.
I’ve been shooting and hunting with muzzleloaders for nearly 40 years. What I’ve noticed is it’s getting more difficult finding lead for casting my own projectiles and finding blackpowder in my area. Even in muzzleloading finding stuff to feed your gun is getting more problematic. Sign of the times.
Thompson Center .50 Hawken Percussion. Use it in 1836 Texas re-enacting also.
You can make blackpowder at home with a rotary rock polisher, sulfur, charcoal, and saltpeter. There are several youtube videos for it.
Automobile Batteries, Automobile Wheel Weight(s), Fishing weights,i.e. Boat Down Rigger(s) ball(s) approx. 3-5 (of pure Lead) lb's.
I use a .577 Parker Hale manufactured 1853 Enfield percussion rifle with 475 gr. minie pattern bullets.
Indeed. I have been looking into that.
Thank you. Of those sources, only the fishing weights have been a relatively steady source. In my area (So.California), the lead wheel weights have been getting more scarce. I still get a trickle here and there, but it’s not as steady as it used to be. Because I cast projectiles for both my muzzleloaders and my old cartridge guns, I’ve been getting pretty frugal in my shooting habits.
Disclaimer: Opinions posted on Free Republic are those of the individual posters and do not necessarily represent the opinion of Free Republic or its management. All materials posted herein are protected by copyright law and the exemption for fair use of copyrighted works.