Well, it took me longer than I expected to write this up properly. Actually doing the mod would be quicker, I suspect!!
If you are handy with screwdrivers, a soldering iron, and possibly a Dremel tool, this could be a cheap way to get a lot of light, IF you want to spend a couple hours at it.
Note that this modification WILL void the warranty, BUT, it greatly decreases the chance of an early failure, a common LED light problem, as MOST are not properly heat sunk. [Note 4]
PRODUCT INFO.:
Was on sale for $14.99, but did not qualify for Menards 15% off “bag sale”. $17.99 regular.
Rated at 12,500 Lumens. That’s possibly “generous, but, this light IS bright, and the rating seems “possible” for the power draw rating of 130 watts.
44” long.
4000K light “color”.
CRI = 80.
The 130 watts drawn mean the reasonably generous heat sink on the back WILL get fairly warm.
Up to 4 units can be linked with ordinary 3-wire 14 ga. or 16 ga. copper wire extension cords of pretty much any desired length. [Note 1]
5 ft. long 3-wire (grounded) power cord. [Note 2]
Pull switch. This switch controls both the light and any downstream / linked light or attachment. [Note 3]
Comes with hanging chains and hardware, plus an instruction manual.
TOOLS NEEDED:
#1 Philips screwdriver w/ shaft “ diameter or less.
Small ziplock bag to stash small screws temporarily.
Small diameter shaft sharp “pick”. (I found a “J” style small pick, similar to that style dental pick, to be easiest to use, but YMMV. A very large fishing hook, such as used for “snagging”, can also work.)
Handheld (preferably light) power / battery power drill and drill bits.
Dremel tool with cutting disc or small (2”) cutting disc type tool.
Medium soldering iron (30 watt?) or small soldering gun.
Good quality std. pliers.
Black fine tip permanent marker.
A cheap volt-ohm meter may be handy. ;-)
A good, bright, head worn flashlight may also be handy! ;-)
Vacuum with brush attachment.
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If you are not comfortable with using the above tools, do not proceed!
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PARTS LIST:
60/40 flux core solder. (Leaded solder is best; just wash your hands B4 eating, etc.)
Painters’ masking tape. (Almost any easy-release tape or label will do — the tops of a couple 3” Post-It cards will work , I suspect.)
2x #6 x 1/4” sheet metal screw or #6 x 1/4” machine screw with #6 nut.
Heat sink compound or, automotive metal filled silicone “gasket maker” [NOTE 5], or high temperature metal or oxide filled anti-seize compound, or in a pinch, non-flammable “low dropout” high temperature grease*, or, in a pinch, silicone cement / caulk[NOTE 5]. Theoretically JB Weld might work, but, I don’t know if it will retain adhesion to the surfaces involved, under temperature cycling. Basically, we have a slight gap to fill with something besides air, and electrical conductivity will not matter.
MODIFICATION PROCEDURE:
Unbox unit. Plug it in and power it up for 5 minutes, check the switch function, etc.
Unplug unit. Work in a clear, well lit work space.
Remove the 2 small screws holding an end cap to the fixture. Save the screws in a small ziplock bag or similar. (They are easy to lose!
Repeat for opposite end.
Gently remove the endcaps. You may need to wiggle them a bit, but do not “yank” them off. They will still be attached by the short wires.
GENTLY pull up the label on the housing ONLY where it attaches to the translucent front “lens” / cover. Cover the exposed adhesive side with “blue” painters’ masking tape. (Weak adhesive std. masking tape may be ok too. Basically, we just don’t want debris, dust, etc., getting on the label adhesive, as it will be needed later in good shape to re-secure the front “lens” to the rear housing / heat sink.)
Carefully slide the lens off the rear housing. Be careful from here on out not to bend the round capacitor’s leads (outlet end).
Mark the pc board on the OUTLET end with the black marker, beside the black wire’s small metal “socket” on the pc board. This is so you know where to reinsert the black wire, later.
Insert the pick into the “back end” of the socket just “tagged”: Wiggle the pick end in to release the stripped and tinned end of that black wire. Pull the wire out using MODERATE force at most. (If using a large fish hook, don’t insert it too far and get it hooked in the socket!!!)
Repeat for the white wire in its socket on the pc board.
Drill out the rivet holding the outlet end ground wire to the housing. Pull the wire lug free, but save the small lockwasher in the “screws” bag.
It is NOT necessary to pull the black wires out of the small sockets on the CORD end of the pc board.
Drill out the rivet holding the CORD end ground wire to the housing. Pull the wire lug free, but save the small lockwasher in the “screws” bag. (I found both of the “attachments” of the ground wires to the rear housing / heat sink to be slightly loose.)
Slide the LED PCB (strip) out of the heat sink / housing.
You will need to either bend one of the two retainers rails “up” (very tedious) OR cut away most of one, leaving perhaps 4 or 5 equally spaced 1/4” wide “tabs” that you will bend vertical.
Vacuum up any metal bits, dust, and debris. Examine the LED PCB very carefully too, both sides, and particularly around the small ICs and so on.
Spread a THIN layer of whatever gap filler / heat sink compound you want to use into the “channel” between the rails.
Reinstall the LED PCB between the rails, pressing it in gently but firmly, a few inches at a time, giving the filler plenty time to “squeeze thin”, but with only minor “squeeze out”. A suggestion if not using silicone cement or gasket maker is to do a trial run with only, say, 4” at one end “gooped up”. (A trial run with silicone cement or gasket maker can be done too, but you may want to pull things back apart and clean any partially set silicone out before final “assembly” of the PCB to the heat sink.) The key is maximizing “gap” fill under the PCB, but minimizing squeeze out.
Carefully clean away any squeeze out if using non-curing gap filler, or excessive squeeze out of any kind. Curing type will likely be easier to cut away after it is cured.
Push down the rail tabs on the modified rail side onto the PCB. A few spots on the other side can be pushed down slightly too: In both cases, do not push so hard as to risk damaging the PCB. It’s fairly tough but not indestructible!
If using or if you have STANDARD (not metal filled) silicone cement on hand, shoot a “glob” underneath that wobbly round capacitor. One the cement cures, it will help support the capacitor. I do not recommend trying to reseat the capacitor by heating its solder joints and pushing it down, unless you are very confident about this step.
Reattach the ground wires with the #6 screws & lockwashers. If using machine screws and nuts, but no lockwashers, a small dab of silicone base glue will work nicely as a removable threadlocker. Lockwashers are best though, and the “teeth” should “bite” into the heat sink.
Re-insert the black and white wires at the outlet end into their sockets.
At this point, without touching any electrically conductive parts, or to be extra safe, wear rubber gloves, you can CAREFULLY plug the partial assembly into a std. 120 VAC power outlet and test operation for a five seconds maximum. (We don’t want the LED PCB strip to heat up if any curing adhesives are not yet cured.)
If using curable adhesives, set the partial assembly aside in a warm spot until the adhesive appears to have cured.
(Optional) If you wish, since it is fairly unlikely you will never be fully disassembling this fixture again, solder those black and white wires into the sockets. This will prevent any chance of a poor connection developing, long term. The black wires at the cord end are a “ditto”, unless you think you may want to reconfigure the switch at some point. [Note 3]
Slide the lens back on.
Pull the masking tape (off the label) and press the label back down smoothly and firmly.
Reinstall the end caps. Be sure no wires are pinched.
Reconnect the power cord to a 120 VAC power outlet and test operation. After a few minutes, the heat sink should be nice and toasty, but not dangerously hot.
Voila! You now have a MUCH longer life / reliable and quite bright, light.
Install the light as desired [Note 2], keeping all surfaces at least 2” away from any plastic or flammable surfaces.
[1] 18 ga. is ok, but longer lengths may incur small losses.)
Most low power devices drawing 130 watts or less can be the last item on the chain if they are not RFI sensitive.
[2] The power cord conductor material is not known at this time. Anymore, I always assume the worst, copper clad aluminum, unless I know differently, especially with Chinese made products. CCAL has higher resistance and lower current capability than std. copper wire, and has much poorer flex resistance. DO NOT USE THIS PRODUCT IN SITUATIONS WHERE THE POWER CORD WILL EXPERIENCE SIGNIFICANT REPEATED FLEXING.
[3] Rewiring this unit to make the outlet “pass through” and independent of the pull switch is possible, but not covered here. Using external splitters and cords is probably easier, anyway, if one wants independent switching. Otherwise, when setting up your lighting, just keep in mind that upstream units control downstream units.
[4] Unfortunately, most Chinese LED light fixture manufacturers, and some others, fail to adequately / properly heat sink their LEDs. This will cause failures long before the rated life, which is usually based on when the output brightness decreases by 50% due to degradation of the phosphors, not by when heat kills the fixture. BAH!!!
[5] Automotive metal filled silicone “gasket maker” may be the best option for most people, esp. if one has other uses for it. You will not need a lot - even a 3 oz. tube should be much more than enough. This is available at most any automotive parts store. Just look for any brand gasket maker with metallic fill, formulated for high temperature use. BEST of course is heat sink compound, and even a low grade will do. We are not trying to cool an expensive gaming PC CPU, here!
Links:
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81878-Maximum-Temperature-Silicone/dp/B0002UEOPA
(Heat Sink Compound)
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-98003-Silicone-White/dp/B0044NI2M2/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&sr=1-2
Let me know if I’m getting this right.
Typically, a PCB has electronic components soldered to one side with wire nubs sticking out the back side where the soldering is actually done.
The goal is better heat dissipation via better contact between it and any heat sink.
Since the PCB board has electricity flowing throughout out it, whatever used as a compound must have zero potential for conductivity.
Correct?
Specs say -13 to +104 degree operating temperature. -13 is pretty good.
Called in(texted) to work today. I did finally make it out of here at 2:30 yesterday but it was a dicey 1 mile trip to the main road and not something I would do at 4am with the temp being -17.7 at the AG research station 10 miles away with wind chill -19. (break down/slide off road/get stuck - 1/2 mile to nearest neighbor - flashlight quits at 1/4 mile - pitch black - lost -freeze to death)
Went out to grab an armload of more seasoned wood than what I had in here to get a hot fire going but didn’t think to look at the thermometer. The AG center is in a big valley and gets colder than here. The other published temp is a small airport 20 miles in the other direction and is always warmer than here and they’re at -4 degrees with wind chill -18. I’m usually about half way between AG center and airport.
I drove in the tire tracks of a truck with 4x4 yesterday. Those tracks and ridges left are probably solid today and they haven’t plowed the gravel roads here yet. I imagine they’ll do it today; and not have to pay OT. No school today which is always the case when it gets this cold.
Went out the long way and came back in the short way which was worse because those tracks were from a vehicle narrower than mine and if I got a little off center, it would try and drag me off in that direction. Had the rear tires spinning coming up the big hill that ends at my place. Took a 7 point turn to get it facing out once I got in here.
I’m staying right where I’m at and will just keep feeding this wood stove. Made a pound of very evenly cooked bacon on it yesterday morning and then cooked an egg in the bacon grease. Square skillet was pre-seasoned and got more added to it.
My 12” round skillet has a rust spot about 4 inches in diameter. It barely fit in the door of the stove so I burned off all the seasoning and flaky rust. Once it got hot, it expanded and I couldn’t get it back out. Panic moment. Left it hanging almost half way out for a minute and it cooled and contracted enough to pull it out. Gonna take the torch to that spot to burn off the orange/rust color so it won’t come back. Then I can start seasoning it from scratch.
My 10” round skillet has no rust but the seasoning has peeled off in a couple of small areas on the inner sidewall. Gonna clean it up and decide whether to burn it all off or try and keep seasoning. It was nice enough to cook an egg in with no added butter/oil at one time.
I don’t have much of anything for soup/stew ingredients, else I would do that today. I do have flour, salt, yeast and water. If they plow the road, I’ll head to town and do a little grocery shopping. They have stew beef for $6.49 and chicken thighs for $1.88. Got a tab open to Chef Gruel recipe for Braised Thighs with Umami Pan Sauce.