Still recall in 1951 a shark at Rio del Mar beach south of Santa Cruz bit an 8 foot Duke Kahanamoku wooden surfboard in half. Lots of scary stuff in Monterey Bay.
Some cool pics of Duke Kahanamoku, who I hadn’t heard of until I saw your post:
https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/the-most-iconic-pictures-of-duke-kahanamoku#google_vignette
Apparently he rode a surfboard made of redwood that weighed well over 100 lbs.