Some cool pics of Duke Kahanamoku, who I hadn’t heard of until I saw your post:
https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/the-most-iconic-pictures-of-duke-kahanamoku#google_vignette
Apparently he rode a surfboard made of redwood that weighed well over 100 lbs.
I well remember a surfboard, a huge thing like the picture of the ten-footer you provided that was stored in a cabin back among the redwood trees at Aptos, California. It was so heavy that as a kid I could not lift it. Someone knew its value and it was stolen some time in the fifties. I hope it is in a museum somewhere because it was a beast. I doubt if one in ten surfers today could control it.
Thanks for those photos.