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Ford FWD with AWD Edge,Escape,Explorer,Fusion and similar Vehicles
Tnoldman

Posted on 03/05/2024 10:50:24 AM PST by TNoldman

I am a former Ford Engineer and avid vehicle enthusiast. Ford has lengthened maintenance intervals to show reduced maintenance costs. Oil changing in the Engine, Transmission, Power Takeoff Unit(provides drive to the rear axle in AWD vehicles), Rear Axle. are addressed.

My recommendations are especially targeted at Turbo Charged Engines, AWD, and Automatic Transmissions. Why now? Because of very complex Tranmission computer Controlled 6 speeds and more and reduced Oil Capacities.

Recommendations:

Engine- 5-w30 Blended or Synthetic and Filter. Initial change at 2000 miles(cleans our manufacturing dirt and initial wear particles) - every 4000 miles thereafter.

Transmission- (Filter is internal that requires major disassemly to change). Important to keep filled with clean oil. Use Synthetic - it takes about 4-1/2 quarts to drain and top off. The Transmission has a Drain Plug, a Level Plug and a full port. Many do not have a Dipstick. Change level when up to temperature. Yes - I know your only getting about 1/2 of the oil. Perform every 20000 miles.

PTU - Use Synthetic -140 w. It holds about ONE QT. It may or may not have a drain plug. Vacuum out or add a Drain Plug (easy- see Youtube). Perform at 20000 miles intervals. Overflow plug sets level.

Rear Axle - Use the best as it only takes about a quart. (80/90w) May or may not have a drain plug. Some as above Vacuum out or add a drain plug. Use 80/90w at 30000 miles intervals. Over flow plugs sets the level.

Trouble free and safe driving to all!


TOPICS: Hobbies; Travel
KEYWORDS: fordoilchange

1 posted on 03/05/2024 10:50:24 AM PST by TNoldman
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To: TNoldman
Thanks, TNoldman!

This is helpful! :)

2 posted on 03/05/2024 10:53:34 AM PST by kiryandil
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To: TNoldman

I just had this conversation yesterday morning at my toyota dealer getting my Highlander’s first 5,000 mile checkup.

Turbo. Towing. NO OIL CHANGE UNTIL 10,000 miles, it uses synthetic oil, they told me.

Service manual doesn’t specify synthetic, SFAICT.


3 posted on 03/05/2024 10:58:22 AM PST by normbal (normbal. somewhere in socialist occupied America ‘tween MD and TN)
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To: TNoldman

Ford Bookmark


4 posted on 03/05/2024 11:06:15 AM PST by DocRock
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To: TNoldman

I have a 2016 Escape Titanium. I love the car.

Do these new recommendations apply to my car?


5 posted on 03/05/2024 11:09:29 AM PST by FroggyTheGremlim (Plunk your magic twanger, Froggy!)
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To: TNoldman

I watch a Youtube guy that disassembles engines with problems. Almost ALL are oil related and mainly related to owner not changing the oil. No reason an engine will not get 250k or more with proper care.


6 posted on 03/05/2024 11:13:38 AM PST by devane617 (Discipline Is Reliable, Motivation Is Fleeting..)
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To: FroggyTheGremlim

I have a 2016 Escape Titanium. I love the car.

Do these new recommendations apply to my car?

Yes!!!


7 posted on 03/05/2024 11:19:16 AM PST by TNoldman (AN AMERICAN FOR A MUSLIM/BHO FREE AMERICA. (Owner of Staris and Bars Flags))
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To: normbal

I just had this conversation yesterday morning at my toyota dealer getting my Highlander’s first 5,000 mile checkup.

Turbo. Towing. NO OIL CHANGE UNTIL 10,000 miles, it uses synthetic oil, they told me.

Service manual doesn’t specify synthetic, SFAICT.

You have a Turbo and you use at for Towing you should follow my recommendations. 100000 miles would be 26 oil changes or about $1200. Your dealer recommendation would save you about $400. No Thank you.


8 posted on 03/05/2024 11:25:40 AM PST by TNoldman (AN AMERICAN FOR A MUSLIM/BHO FREE AMERICA. (Owner of Staris and Bars Flags))
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To: TNoldman
I used to use Amsoil (synthetic), & even installed their 'bypass' oil system. I saw it used at a trade show, where they put graphite in the oil - turned it black, of course, then ran it thru the bypass system & it came out clean as a whistle. Impressed me!

I also used to work in a machine shop, rebuilding engines, but I seem to recall that one was not supposed to use synthetic on a new engine - in order to allow the rings to seat.

I use Mobil 1 currently, but with my experiences with synthetic - it is very very good.

...that is, good enough to prevent the rings from seating...maybe I'm wrong, and yes, I would defer to your opinion on the subject Mr. Engineer!

9 posted on 03/05/2024 11:49:37 AM PST by spankalib
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To: TNoldman
I got sick of listening to the rattling of the engine in my Escape for long after startup, so changed to Amsoil Signature Series within 2,000 or so miles.

Quieted it so much you had to look at the tach to see if it was running.

Changed the PTU oil at around 20,000 miles to Amsoil Severe Gear and wish I had done it sooner.

The oil when drained was like black tar.

After changing, the fuel economy went up 7 MPG. Amsoil.com

10 posted on 03/05/2024 11:56:49 AM PST by Mogger (Are)
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To: spankalib
but I seem to recall that one was not supposed to use synthetic on a new engine - in order to allow the rings to seat.

This was true 40 years or so ago, depending on what rings you happened to get in an engine.

Around 40-50 years ago, Sealed Power Corporation developed pre-lapped, radiused rings.

It took several years to license most or all of the other ring manufacturers to make them.

Since that era, to the best of my knowledge, no break in is required as all new engines should have rings made that way.

Working in a machine shop though, you might encounter straight edged rings that would require break in to seat.

Amsoil has a break in oil just for this: Amsoil Break in oil

11 posted on 03/05/2024 12:07:08 PM PST by Mogger (Are)
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To: Mogger

Thanks FRiend! The machine shop was 40+ years ago ;)


12 posted on 03/05/2024 12:50:41 PM PST by spankalib
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To: TNoldman

I’ve owned three Fords. All were pieces of garbage. Never bought another one and don’t see myself ever owning another one. It seems every few weeks Ford is having another recall. No thanks.


13 posted on 03/05/2024 12:54:17 PM PST by AlaskaErik (There are three kinds of rats: Rats, Damned Rats, and DemocRats.)
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Ooh! An oil thread on FR!

Rotella T6 and send it.

14 posted on 03/05/2024 1:23:32 PM PST by Christopher
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To: TNoldman

I’m over 25 years away from my experience with GM’s Gen 3 V-8 program. (I was project engineer for the CMM process control installations at Romulus.) Even then the mfg guys were saying that GM was complying with EPA regulations “by engineering the spec sheets”. The thing that was killing them in 1994 was a diktat that the engine must use very thin oil (5W-30?) to reduce oil drag. All well and good, except the machine tool builders couldn’t hold tolerances tightly enough to avoid a high infant mortality rate. 25 years more of this, and I surmise that the current powertrain generations are on the ragged edge of failure unless preventive maintenance protocols are rigidly followed, (at not inconsiderable expense). I for one wouldn’t even consider a turbo-charged engine as a daily driver.


15 posted on 03/05/2024 1:56:03 PM PST by Chad C. Mulligan
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To: TNoldman

I have a 2009 F-150 SuperCab 4.6 V8 with almost 339,000 miles (yes 339K) on it. Still looks and drives like new. Just regular maintenance. Interior is excellent, no tears. Only major changes are the addition of nerf bar running boards and upgrading the audio system to include wireless apple CarPlay.


16 posted on 03/05/2024 1:56:44 PM PST by P8riot (I carry a gun because I can't carry a cop.)
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To: AlaskaErik

I understand how your feel. I sorry you had problems with your Ford Vehicles.


17 posted on 03/05/2024 3:05:14 PM PST by TNoldman (AN AMERICAN FOR A MUSLIM/BHO FREE AMERICA. (Owner of Staris and Bars Flags))
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To: TNoldman

Sorry for the Typos and auto correct. Wish FR had “edit” Function.


18 posted on 03/05/2024 5:23:18 PM PST by TNoldman (AN AMERICAN FOR A MUSLIM/BHO FREE AMERICA. (Owner of Staris and Bars Flags))
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