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I borrowed an impact wrench (at the time but found the lack of room above the heater kept that from fitting. Had a breaker bar too (along with the special 1 1/16 deep socket meant specifically for the anode rod) but the space around the heater foiled me with that as well. The impact wrench is usually the best option though, just my heater placement wouldn't allow use of it. This is why I so wished I had loosened that nut (then tightened it with much less torque) before the heater was installed.

I was able to find someone who did it without my having local permit of $70 but the plumber still did everything to code. I live dangerously though as it has a drain pain but no drain to outside and it sits in utility room next to kitchen along with washer and dryer. Condo would have to allow install of line...only pressure relief line goes outside. It is at least on ground floor in my two story condo. It amazes me where heaters are installed in some condos and even houses...some in attics, and many where they don't think you ever need room to do maintenance.

I have a water leak alarm in the pan, and another alarm outside the pan that monitors this along with any leak from washing machine. I also have these alarms (around $12 at Home Depot) near any water source. Another device in house (brand name Leeo) listens for specific alarms and calls me if it detects CO, Smoke, or Water leak alarm (this specific type). Maybe I should just preemptively replace the heater at some point in future, though following the anode rod inspect/replace and water draining preventative maintenance should keep it in better shape.