Posted on 06/23/2018 11:27:20 AM PDT by Catmom
Apparently this is standard price for the install, sales taxes, labor, disposal fee, "code upgrades," etc. My next door neighbor paid the same amount last year.
Sucks to be a homeowner w/o construction skills in a blue state.
I half think people in the trades push for code upgrades to make everything cost more. And they seemed shocked that I would question their prices. Got a 10% discount FWIW.
I had a tight fit issue once, in a closet. I’m in Florida, its simple. Put it outside. Viola, perfect.
You do 80 gallon taks to save the sun-heated water through the dark night and a cloudy day.
No, the anode rod will be eaten away by hard water. It must be replaced. The anode rod is sacrificial. It takes about five years for it to be corroded away - about the same amount of time as the warranty. Shocking!
I am not a plumber and I sweat my fittings
Its not hard to do
After reading the comments,it would seem that some are paying reasonable prices,but some are getting hosed beyond any reasonable belief. Must be some real thieves out there in the plumbing/electrical business. Maybe someone needs to explain to some of these installers that they shouldn’t expect to retire after a couple installations. Some of the prices I saw quoted were absolutely insane,although there are admittedly some installations not as simple as others & extra work could be required in certain instances.
Unless you’re an illegal I’m assuming.
damn... have to check into leak alarm as most of my house is pex
and you aren’t paying to heat water all the time, just in use, my electric bill dropped by almost 2/3 when i put in the tankless system
you save big time by not heating water when not in use, and like you said it takes time to get to the outlet but so do take systems, and i would NEVER use a recirculating system no matter what system i had
i said a few hundred and it’s a Rheem, the one it replaced was a Chronomite and lasted eleven years
those can be issues
then they dint read up on the unit they bought, the specs will tell you what size heater you need depending on what part of the country you live in
the total rise over ambient inlet water temperature is the deciding factor as to what size heater you need
Probably need to replace the sacrificial anode, aluminum or magnesium, usually about every 5 years, YMMV. Water smelling bad? First sign anode got eaten away. It’s not a difficult DIY task, drain and flush tank at same time. Simple threaded nut at top of rod, drops into tank from top. If you have a manual you can get a part number, but the nut is virtually universal, though length varies according to tank size and type. Can even buy them from Amazon, $25-30 delivered. Tried buying one from local plumbing supply, they were asking $70.
I am both a qualified and experienced electrician and plumber. I did my own installations over the years and saved many thousands of dollars.
Oh, I know how it is. Before I moved to the boonies, I came from Ctrl FL aka Disney World. I managed to stay out of subdivisions and live in the county, just outside of city limits because....
I live on 15.5 acres now and there’s no such thing as codes. Property taxes are $35 per year but the ambulance is 45 minutes away.
Why don’t you like recirculating systems? We just bought a house that has one (my first experience with them) and it is very slick having instant hot water. I wonder how much I’m paying per year for that little convenience.
I found that a tall water heater in an 8 foot ceiling closet makes it impossible to change the anode rod. To solve it, I had to cut a hole in the ceiling sheetrock and pull back the blown-in insulation from around the hole. Now I shove the threaded end of the road into the attic and can drop it into the tank. I slide a little square of rock over the hole until the next time I change it.
one, i’ve been told if you have any solder joints it’s not good for them
two, you have to constantly heat that water let alone a costlier system to get it to work and most places electric isn’t cheap, the tankless cut my elecbill by around well over half
three, i can wait for five or ten seconds for the cold water in the line to be replaced by hot water in the kitchen
four, the heater is two feet from my shower head so there in NO lagtime there, ten-fifteen feet from the sink and washer so no real lagtime there
if you have tankless, do you have a holding tank for the circulation?
I’m not tankless...conventional tank WH. I don’t,understand the issues,with solder joints. Is it because they are held at a higher temperature for many hours?
It’s a trade-off:
Lots of cold water dumped down the drain while waiting for the hot water to arrive...
Vs...
Extra electricity consumed to run the recirculating pump and extra heat loss in the recirculating system (more natural gas consumed).
That sucks. I’m sorry you got ripped off. Might want to make friends with a handy neighbor just to bargain for you next time. 80 gallon gas last year installed 900. I thought I got screwed.
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